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Re: Helicrysum Absolute

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> So different from the essential oil - and so rick with undertones and

> nuances. I am working with this one recently for the first time

> really, and just wanted to see if anyone has some blending suggestions

> they want to share.

> So far I blended it with tobacco and hay notes, and also went more to

> the sweet side with vanillas and really liked the results. It seems so

> complex that I feel that adding too much to it may be counter-productive.

>

> Ayala

> www.AyalaMoriel.com

> www.SmellyBlog.com

>

Hey Ayala,

I like the helichrysum with the hay....very interesting. I like how

you've deeped it and made it into a more earthy with the tobacco and

hay...when working with heli I have blended with fir balsamoh one more

love it with geranium ser fleur, love it with Lav. Abs. and coriander sage

and clove...I like it with seaweed diluted way down and its a nice blender

bridge for florals..I find it shapes a blend similarly to

lavender...giving the composition flow...love it with cypress abs. however

since your going deep rich and earthy I wonder how it would blend with a

guiacwood base since it has a smokey..tobacco quality...can't wait to hear

what you do with it!

Happy New Year!!

Lesle

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>

> So different from the essential oil - and so rick with undertones and

> nuances. I am working with this one recently for the first time

> really, and just wanted to see if anyone has some blending suggestions

> they want to share.

> So far I blended it with tobacco and hay notes, and also went more to

> the sweet side with vanillas and really liked the results. It seems so

> complex that I feel that adding too much to it may be

counter-productive.

>

Love the stuff. Immortelle/Helichrysm...

I use it in sweet amber/musk blends (benzoin, cistus, vanilla abs.

sandalwood,honey,jasmine, frankincense and ambrette seed) a pinch of

agarwood in this is nice too.

I make several variations of sweet ambers, this is a basic formula,

that I use as a starter and add other things to it. And yes a little

helichrysm abs. goes a long way. I remember when I first discovered

it, I could not keep my nose out of the jar.

I keep a bottle of it diluted at 50% in alcohol.

I also like it with Mimosa blends. and spicy rose and clove combos..

Z...

Zz's Petals

http://www.zzspetals.com

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> Hey Ayala,

> I like the helichrysum with the hay....very interesting. I like how

> you've deeped it and made it into a more earthy with the tobacco and

> hay...when working with heli I have blended with fir balsamoh one more

I used it in one of my prior versions for my osmanthus soliflore,

which had a leathery tobacco base. It was interesting, but I think i

put too much and it had that curry-fenugreek-like smell which was not

what I wanted...

> love it with geranium ser fleur, love it with Lav. Abs. and

coriander sage

Come to think of it, there was also lavender Seville absolute there,

and it really seems to be a good combination with it.

however

> since your going deep rich and earthy I wonder how it would blend with a

> guiacwood base since it has a smokey..tobacco quality...can't wait

to hear

> what you do with it!

>

> Happy New Year!!

> Lesle

I think the guiacwood would be awesome with helicrysum! Thanks for

sharing this idea! Another favourite note of mine, too.

Ayala Sender

www.AyalaMoriel.com

www.SmellyBlog.com

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> Love the stuff. Immortelle/Helichrysm...

> I use it in sweet amber/musk blends (benzoin, cistus, vanilla abs.

> sandalwood,honey,jasmine, frankincense and ambrette seed) a pinch of

> agarwood in this is nice too.

I want to make a perfume that is anchored around immortelle and

vanilla (not so original, as it was done before I believe with Annick

Goutal Sables and with the new L de Lolita Lempicka - but it does

smell different than others as this is all natural). So far I made a

quite simple blend of different vanillas, helicrysum, cinnamon co2

(which I hoped would have been a top note, but it lingers forever!)

and a very tiny bit of sweet orange for a lift. It sounds very simple

but it's so rich and complex and it seems to last forever. It smells

almost like melting butter and sugar cookies in your mouth. It smells

like a pastry and I think if I only could find that sample of wheat

absolute I might be able to make it even more so...

> I make several variations of sweet ambers, this is a basic formula,

> that I use as a starter and add other things to it.

I also have different amber bases, with different nuances (i.e.:

incensey, honeyed-sweet, animalic, etc.). There is nothing like

developing your own compounds - it makes your perfumes unique but also

gives great satisfaction knowing that you can create a note that

nobody else has ;)

> I also like it with Mimosa blends. and spicy rose and clove combos..

> Z...

> Zz's Petals

> http://www.zzspetals.com

I would imagine the mimosa would be very fleeting with such a heavy

base... But I will have to try it to really know. I think the cloves

would be really delicious.

Thank you for your help and ideas, Zz!

Happy New Year!

Ayala Sender

www.AyalaMoriel.com

www.SmellyBlog.com

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At 06:34 PM 12/31/2006, you wrote:

>So different from the essential oil - and so rick with undertones and

>nuances. I am working with this one recently for the first time

>really, and just wanted to see if anyone has some blending suggestions

>they want to share.

>So far I blended it with tobacco and hay notes, and also went more to

>the sweet side with vanillas and really liked the results. It seems so

>complex that I feel that adding too much to it may be counter-productive.

HI Ayala

I have several heli abs, and they're all quite a bit different. Dark

and brown and thick, thick, thick, but honeyed and deep beyond

belief. Greener and thinnger and with a bit of the sun sparkle of the

EO, another dark ambery and hay and tobacco like.

I went in the opposite direction when I did some test blends. Tried

to lift the composition quite a bit, used mint and galbanum and some

florals -- rose and ylang!

Anya McCoy

Anya's Garden of Natural Perfume http://anyasgarden.com

Artisan Natural Perfumers Guild http://artisannaturalperfumers.org

Natural Perfumers Community Group

/

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> HI Ayala

>

> I have several heli abs, and they're all quite a bit different. Dark

> and brown and thick, thick, thick, but honeyed and deep beyond

> belief.

I read somewhere (I think in Lawless' Encyclopedia of Essential

Oils) that there are a few different species and one is better for

absolutes and the other is used for the EO more often. Can't remember

the exact names though.

> Greener and thinnger and with a bit of the sun sparkle of the

> EO, another dark ambery and hay and tobacco like.

I never thought of it as green, but it shares the herbal tones of

other florals from the same family - chamomile and marigold. I used

the EO in my Altruism (with chamomile, vanilla, lavender and

grapefruit), and I think of it more as fruity and honeyed tea-like

(i.e. herbal tea) than green.

I love how it smells in your painkiller oil! It's nice to have a pain

relief oil that smells pleasant (and not like eucapliptus and mint...).

> I went in the opposite direction when I did some test blends. Tried

> to lift the composition quite a bit, used mint and galbanum and some

> florals -- rose and ylang!

That would be delish!

I find the absolute to be so daring and complex and also in its own

way balanced - deep rich beyond belief indeed. I want to go that

direction. We'll see what happens (I am so far indulging in my

gourmand take on it, and find it rustic and warm and very down to

earth - not like a sticky sweet thing at all).

Thanks for all the idea-sharing! It's always nice to hear what others

are experiencing from time to time, as perfumery is such a solitary thing.

Ayala Sender

www.AyalaMoriel.com

www.SmellyBlog.com

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At 01:31 AM 1/1/2007, you wrote:

>

> > HI Ayala

> >

> > I have several heli abs, and they're all quite a bit different. Dark

> > and brown and thick, thick, thick, but honeyed and deep beyond

> > belief.

>

>I read somewhere (I think in Lawless' Encyclopedia of Essential

>Oils) that there are a few different species and one is better for

>absolutes and the other is used for the EO more often. Can't remember

>the exact names though.

Hi A.

Not from perfumery, but AT:

Butch did a round up of Helis for aromatherapy, with the focus on the

one I use in my pain relief oil, the one from Corsica.

H. bracteiferum .... generally from Madagascar.

H. gymnocephalium .. generally from Madagascar.

H. stoechas ........ generally from Madagascar, France and Spain.

H. italicum (angustifolium) .. also called Everlasting and Immortelle.

H. italicum can be found in France, Spain, Yugoslavia, Croatia, Turkey.

BUT .. Helichrysum italicum (Rothm.) Guss. ssp. serotinum Boiss is ONLY

found growing in Corsica

I do believe it is the H. italicum (angustifolium) that is used to

create the absolute. I'm not sure, but I believe the first five Butch

writes about are mainly made into EOs, with the italicum also finding

its way into being made into absolutes.

> > Greener and thinnger and with a bit of the sun sparkle of the

> > EO, another dark ambery and hay and tobacco like.

>I never thought of it as green, but it shares the herbal tones of

>other florals from the same family - chamomile and marigold.

I didn't mean green in scent, Ayala, I meant in color - sorry for not

being more specific. It came from , so that may be the one you have.

>I love how it smells in your painkiller oil! It's nice to have a pain

>relief oil that smells pleasant (and not like eucapliptus and mint...).

My pain relief oil has the Helichrysum italicum (Rothm.) Guss. ssp.

serotinum Boiss EO.

> > I went in the opposite direction when I did some test blends. Tried

> > to lift the composition quite a bit, used mint and galbanum and some

> > florals -- rose and ylang!

>

>That would be delish!

>I find the absolute to be so daring and complex and also in its own

>way balanced - deep rich beyond belief indeed. I want to go that

>direction. We'll see what happens (I am so far indulging in my

>gourmand take on it, and find it rustic and warm and very down to

>earth - not like a sticky sweet thing at all).

I took the Carles " contrast " method when I did my test blends, but of

course, if you're looking for a specific effect, like deep and rich,

you need to take it in that direction, rustic and warm, etc.

Anya McCoy

Anya's Garden of Natural Perfume http://anyasgarden.com

Artisan Natural Perfumers Guild http://artisannaturalperfumers.org

Natural Perfumers Community Group

/

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