Re: On a whim...now I'm stuck

[Guest guest]

a calm with no wind! Watching them won't make them blend faster, will

it?

My last blend was the " Lily Milk " and its really starting to even out.

Gosh darned almond is still going strong, but the clove, citrus, and

geranium are fighting for recognition. I've even put some of it into

raw whipped cocoa butter! Very yummy.

iel

Hi iel

did the cocoa butter temper the almond?

Janita

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[Guest guest]

Hi iel

did the cocoa butter temper the almond?

Janita

Most definately! The cocoa has also pulled the quieter notes out in a subtle,

chocolately kind of way. Now I'm wondering if I should have run the first mix

thru a still before adding it to anything else? I still have some of it left so

I can reference it against other combos.

---------------------------------

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[Guest guest]

>iel wrote>

> Most definately! The cocoa has also pulled the quieter notes out in a

>subtle, chocolately kind of way. Now I'm wondering if I should have run the

>first mix thru a still before adding it to anything else? I still have

>some of it left so I can reference it against other combos.

>

iel,

How do you use a cocoa butter in an alcohol based perfume or was it a solid?

I have not checked the archives but how does one uses concrete in alcohol

based perfume/ Help!

thanks

Poh Yee

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[Guest guest]

Poh Yee wrote,

>

>How do you use a cocoa butter in an alcohol based perfume or was it a

>solid?

>I have not checked the archives but how does one uses concrete in alcohol

>based perfume/ Help!

>

>thanks

>Poh Yee

>

Oops, I checked the postings again and realised that iel added his

blend to whipped cocoa butter. Oops, oops...

However, my question now is (my way of redeeming myself for not readng the

posting properly ( Did you add coconut oil to it or was it just plain

cocoa butter?

thanks

Poh Yee

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[Guest guest]

However, my question now is (my way of redeeming myself for not readng the

posting properly ( Did you add coconut oil to it or was it just plain

cocoa butter?

thanks

Poh Yee

Hi Poh Yee!

I made my whipped cocoa butter with 40% cocoa butter and 60% fixed oils. The

cocoa butter has a higher melting point so I used more oils to " soften " it up.

Its still a bit stiff after hardening, but it scoops, spreads, and melts very

nicely. For my fixed oils I used a blend of:

2 pt Jojoba

1 pt Sesame seed

1/2 pt Soybean

Also,if your cocoa butter is unrefined you might want 15-20% of the perfume

blend since the chocolate smell is aggressive. Letting the final product sit for

2-3 weeks helps develop the fragrance further (in addition to letting the

fragrance blend sit on its own for a month before adding to the butter and

oils.)

iel

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[Guest guest]

>snip,snip,snip<

> Hi Poh Yee!

> I made my whipped cocoa butter with 40% cocoa butter and 60% fixed oils.

>

iel

>

Thanks iel,

I have used a blend of 60% shea and 40% various fixed oils (whatever I can

find) I read somewhere that the shea should be soften but not melted or the

end result would be grainy. However I found to be true, that I should melt

it or it will be grainy. Have you tried using shea. Did you or anyone who

have tried this, come to the same conclusion?

thanks

Poh Yee

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[Guest guest]

At 06:16 AM 12/15/2006, you wrote:

>Thanks iel,

>

>I have used a blend of 60% shea and 40% various fixed oils (whatever I can

>find) I read somewhere that the shea should be soften but not melted or the

>end result would be grainy. However I found to be true, that I should melt

>it or it will be grainy. Have you tried using shea. Did you or anyone who

>have tried this, come to the same conclusion?

>

>thanks

>Poh Yee

This reminds me of a clever joking way someone on Chris' list decided

to market her now-grainy Shea: tell them they were " shea spheres " and

get a better price, lol. Hope that translates well, it was funny at the time!

Anya McCoy

Anya's Garden of Natural Perfume http://anyasgarden.com

Artisan Natural Perfumers Guild http://artisannaturalperfumers.org

Natural Perfumers Community Group

/

[Guest guest]

iel <nmuss77@...> wrote: Hi iel

did the cocoa butter temper the almond?

Janita

Most definately! The cocoa has also pulled the quieter notes out in a subtle,

chocolately kind of way. Now I'm wondering if I should have run the first mix

thru a still before adding it to anything else? I still have some of it left so

I can reference it against other combos.

bit confused here..... tis late but I thought the lily milk was eos ..... why

run it thru a still? Or am I missing something here?

Janita

Send instant messages to your online friends http://uk.messenger.

[Guest guest]

Most definately! The cocoa has also pulled the quieter notes out in a subtle,

chocolately kind of way. Now I'm wondering if I should have run the first mix

thru a still before adding it to anything else? I still have some of it left so

I can reference it against other combos.

bit confused here..... tis late but I thought the lily milk was eos ..... why

run it thru a still? Or am I missing something here?

Janita

No you didn't miss anything, I mushed in two different posts here without

being clear! I posted something under the home distillation thread and carried

it over here without thinking. You are correct that the lily milk is EOs. I was

wondering if by adding it to an alcohol base and some water-then distilling

it-if this would mature the mix more than just letting it set on its own? I of

course wouldn't use the alcohol mix in my cocoa butter. I basically was talking

to myself, wondering the different routes to take the EO mix. Has anyone made a

perfume blend using this distilling method? And what would the pros/cons be?

(See the " Home stills and distillation " thread for a formula example.)

iel

__________________________________________________

[Guest guest]

bit confused here..... tis late but I thought the lily milk was eos ..... why

run it thru a still? Or am I missing something here?

Janita

.iel then wrote

No you didn't miss anything, I mushed in two different posts here without being

clear! I posted something under the home distillation thread and carried it over

here without thinking. You are correct that the lily milk is EOs. I was

wondering if by adding it to an alcohol base and some water-then distilling

it-if this would mature the mix more than just letting it set on its own?

my thoughts

My take at the moment is to leave it a while longer............to buy in the

fresh flower and temper the almond by applying a few drops of the other eo if

nec and then nuance and adjust by what I could smell from the botanical.

Janita

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[Guest guest]

I have used a blend of 60% shea and 40% various fixed oils (whatever I can

find) I read somewhere that the shea should be soften but not melted or the

end result would be grainy. However I found to be true, that I should melt

it or it will be grainy. Have you tried using shea. Did you or anyone who

have tried this, come to the same conclusion?

thanks

Poh Yee

I make this yes it is Grainy if you do not melt it. Try putting in Rose &

Ginger & using it as a Body Icing.

I find Mango reacts in much the same way though. I do not know how you

people feel about Ultra Refined Shea Butter.

If you are OK about it www.camdengrey.com Do A Fabulous one.

Fragrantly Yours Gill.

[Guest guest]

>snip

>Gillian wrote

>I make this yes it is Grainy if you do not melt it. Try putting in Rose &

>Ginger & using it as a Body Icing.

>I find Mango reacts in much the same way though. I do not know how you

>people feel about Ultra Refined Shea Butter.

>If you are OK about it www.camdengrey.com Do A Fabulous one.

>Fragrantly Yours Gill.

>

Hello Gillian. Thanks for your response. Hmm, rose and Ginger smells/sounds

scrumptious.

I personally dont like it grainy, so I guess I will have to continue to melt

the shea. I use unrefined but personally dont find shea butter that good (my

personal experience). It does not seem to do much for me.

I dont like using refined unless they have a natural process of doing it. I

heard that the process of refining also removes the benefits of shea. So you

would think the unrefined shea is good but I have not found it to be so for

me (

regards,

Poh Yee

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[Guest guest]

> I personally dont like it grainy, so I guess I will have to continue to melt

> the shea. I use unrefined but personally dont find shea butter that good (my

> personal experience). It does not seem to do much for me.

shea butter is awesome is you use very *small* amount of it.

It's like olive oil.

Half a pea is the quantity for my face, and I need to work it a couple

minutes. However, it is very rewarding if you spend the time.

It's waxy, and this can be a quality or a default, depending on how you

use it.

I use pure raw shea butter on me and my kids in extreme weather

conditions, like snow, high winds, or desert sun (death valley or

burning man for example).

I also use it pure as a massage " oil " because it sticks to the skin and

helps for in depth efficient massage. I really love this touch.

I found useful info on my shea-butter supplier website :

http://www.agbangakarite.com/shea_uses.php

But that's from the skin care point of view. At the fragrance level, raw

shea has its own funky smell, that disapears when it melts. However,

it's not clear for me how this affects the scents you put in it. It

modifies the blend, I don;t how it wouldn't. I wish my nose would be

more experimented...

fab

[Guest guest]

>snip

>Fab wrote

>shea butter is awesome is you use very *small* amount of it.

>It's like olive oil.

>Half a pea is the quantity for my face, and I need to work it a couple

>minutes. However, it is very rewarding if you spend the time.

>It's waxy, and this can be a quality or a default, depending on how you

>use it.

>I use pure raw shea butter on me and my kids in extreme weather

>conditions, like snow, high winds, or desert sun (death valley or

>burning man for example).

>I also use it pure as a massage " oil " because it sticks to the skin and

>helps for in depth efficient massage. I really love this touch.

>

>I found useful info on my shea-butter supplier website :

>http://www.agbangakarite.com/shea_uses.php

>

>But that's from the skin care point of view. At the fragrance level, raw

>shea has its own funky smell, that disapears when it melts. However,

>it's not clear for me how this affects the scents you put in it. It

>modifies the blend, I don;t how it wouldn't. I wish my nose would be

>more experimented...

>

>fab

Thanks Fab. I will check out the site.

The " funky " smell of raw shea will come thru the natural EOs that one uses,

unless you use refine. That's what I found in my own personal experience.

I heard that there is a natural process from the manufacturer to remove the

scent but yet retain the properties. Not sure if this is true.

Yes, you are right, less is more, in the case of shea butter

regards

Poh Yee

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[Guest guest]

> So I get up after checking my email and decide to throw something

> together. 3 vials with 1:1 ratio as follows - vial #1 light patchouli

& red mandarin #2 Silver fir & clove bud #3 french lavender & star

anise. Well having got that spurt of inspiration out of the way, I'm

stuck in a calm with no wind! Watching them won't make them blend

faster, will it?

After some tinkering I think I've finally hit on something I like. This

is the first time I've come up with something on my own that hasn't

mucked out...yet. So far:

1pt patchouli & 1pt red mandarin

1pt silver fir & 1pt clove bud

1/4 pt star anise & 3/4 pt French lavender

3/4 pt clary sage & 1/4 pt lemongrass

1pt frankincense (oman) & 1pt Italian lavender

I'm thinking about the final addition of 3/4 pt Persian lime & 1/4

black pepper, but I'm afraid of the black pepper! My goal is to have

something suitable as a " men's " fragrance.

iel

[Guest guest]

> So I get up after checking my email and decide to throw something

> together. 3 vials with 1:1 ratio as follows - vial #1 light patchouli

& red mandarin #2 Silver fir & clove bud #3 french lavender & star

anise. Well having got that spurt of inspiration out of the way, I'm

stuck in a calm with no wind! Watching them won't make them blend

faster, will it?

After some tinkering I think I've finally hit on something I like. This

is the first time I've come up with something on my own that hasn't

mucked out...yet. So far:

1pt patchouli & 1pt red mandarin

1pt silver fir & 1pt clove bud

1/4 pt star anise & 3/4 pt French lavender

3/4 pt clary sage & 1/4 pt lemongrass

1pt frankincense (oman) & 1pt Italian lavender

I'm thinking about the final addition of 3/4 pt Persian lime & 1/4

black pepper, but I'm afraid of the black pepper! My goal is to have

something suitable as a " men's " fragrance.

iel

[Guest guest]

iel <nmuss77@...> wrote:

> So I get up after checking my email and decide to throw something

> together. 3 vials with 1:1 ratio as follows - vial #1 light patchouli

& red mandarin #2 Silver fir & clove bud #3 french lavender & star

anise. Well having got that spurt of inspiration out of the way, I'm

stuck in a calm with no wind! Watching them won't make them blend

faster, will it?

After some tinkering I think I've finally hit on something I like. This

is the first time I've come up with something on my own that hasn't

mucked out...yet. So far:

1pt patchouli & 1pt red mandarin

1pt silver fir & 1pt clove bud

1/4 pt star anise & 3/4 pt French lavender

3/4 pt clary sage & 1/4 pt lemongrass

1pt frankincense (oman) & 1pt Italian lavender

I'm thinking about the final addition of 3/4 pt Persian lime & 1/4

black pepper, but I'm afraid of the black pepper! My goal is to have

something suitable as a " men's " fragrance.

iel

If you are nervous about the black pepper ...... use a dilution of 1 drop to

5ml infuse for a while and add it drop by drop....to have fuller control.....

hope this helps

Janita

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[Guest guest]

>

>

> iel <nmuss77@...> wrote:

>> So I get up after checking my email and decide to throw something

>> together. 3 vials with 1:1 ratio as follows - vial #1 light patchouli

> & red mandarin #2 Silver fir & clove bud #3 french lavender & star

> anise. Well having got that spurt of inspiration out of the way, I'm

> stuck in a calm with no wind! Watching them won't make them blend

> faster, will it?

>

> After some tinkering I think I've finally hit on something I like. This

> is the first time I've come up with something on my own that hasn't

> mucked out...yet. So far:

> 1pt patchouli & 1pt red mandarin

> 1pt silver fir & 1pt clove bud

> 1/4 pt star anise & 3/4 pt French lavender

> 3/4 pt clary sage & 1/4 pt lemongrass

> 1pt frankincense (oman) & 1pt Italian lavender

> I'm thinking about the final addition of 3/4 pt Persian lime & 1/4

> black pepper, but I'm afraid of the black pepper! My goal is to have

> something suitable as a " men's " fragrance.

> iel

>

>

Dear iel,

I really like your formula...I like the lime pepper mix I like working

with pepper it warms a composition nicely with the lavender and patchouli

lovely...working with frakincense has always been difficult for me and I

have worked with a vast variety of frankincense...but have never worked

with the oman...whats its origin?

I stopped distinguishing between masculine and feminine scents however my

compositions definitely lean more on the floral and feminine side...I have

had many male clients request masculine blends and honestly its very

difficult for me...so when your ready to sell I'll be your first customer

!

Happy New Year,

Lesle Faye

[Guest guest]

> something suitable as a " men's " fragrance.

> iel

>

>

Dear iel,

I really like your formula...I like the lime pepper mix I like working

with pepper it warms a composition nicely with the lavender and patchouli

lovely...working with frakincense has always been difficult for me and I

have worked with a vast variety of frankincense...but have never worked

with the oman...whats its origin?

I stopped distinguishing between masculine and feminine scents however my

compositions definitely lean more on the floral and feminine side...I have

had many male clients request masculine blends and honestly its very

difficult for me...so when your ready to sell I'll be your first customer

!

Happy New Year,

Lesle Faye

Happy New Year Lesle and iel

Masculine blends......

There are many males out there who have a distinct feminine side.......

A client who was (as it turns out to be and I knew all along) allergic to

denatured alcohol (quelle suprise.....not!) came to me to create an

a/shave.......

A classical pianist and divine chocolatier...............his choice in the end

was very soft ....... I shall recount a bit so you get the picture not all as I

would be giving away clients privacy...... spikenard, vetiver, rose damascena,

pimento berry , Ho leaf, blupevre sauvage,...............................

I am working on another which is completely different ....... just like

blueprints.... just like fingerprints..........each to his own identity........

so iel go with your heart and instinct..........sounds divine already.

quietly

Janita

independent artisan natural perfumer

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