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Your health comes first.

I always say this about sinus infections, so bear with me: over 90 % of sinus

infections are

fungal in origin, according to recent research by the Mayo Clinic, look on

PubMed. They

treat it with a combo of antifungal pills and/or antifungal nasal sprays. I take

Diflucan, not

nasal sprays, and have (used to have) asthma, which no longer bothers me most of

the

time. Also have allergies, the doc for that gave me the diflucan.

Secondly, the military is VERY aware of the state of the housing, many many

people have

gotten extremely ill from mold in military housing. So far, no one I have heard

about has

been successful in getting them to admit it. I iwsh you very good luck, maybe

the chief will

do more than pat you on the head and make soothing noises.

Thirdly, if you do decide you can't move, be really really careful about the

repair. I got

even sicker (of course) during the repairs, due to everything being stirred up.

And they did

it with containment, negative air pressure, etc. After the first 5 minutes, I

had to leave the

house, which was not perfect. It would have been better to move, but then I was

stubborn

and didn't REALLY believe how sick I would get from it.

Best wishes,

>

> They finally called back today, probably cause i called their command

> master chief and started hassling him lol.

>

> They said they got the report from the testst that were done like 3

> weeks ago(Uhm can you say b.s. they told me before it takes less than

> 10 working days), and that the housing office will be calling me

> within the week to scchedle the repairs on the house. and if they

> dont she says shell call back next week to touch base.. She didnt say

> what type of mold it is, but the stachy(cnat remember the full name)

> is the most common in Hawaii, and it is one of the ones that im most

> allergic to also.

> If you cold go ahead and send me those links or articles (whichever

> they were lol) you mentioned that would be great that way if i decide

> to go in cause theyre still draggin their butts, i have them on hand.

> Thanks so much

>

> -Nina

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That's good. It is good to have a plan about what needs to be done before you

return to

the house.

For me, we all felt infinitely better after running the ozone machine (not while

you are

there, though- not safe) and then mopping with a very mild bleach solution (more

is NOT

better) and damp dusting. The more things are encased in plastic during the

repair, the

less will have to be done to clean.

But then you will have to make some decisions about your stuff- how contaminated

it is,

and how much it bothers you.

> > >

> > > They finally called back today, probably cause i called their

> > command

> > > master chief and started hassling him lol.

> > >

> > > They said they got the report from the testst that were done like 3

> > > weeks ago(Uhm can you say b.s. they told me before it takes less

> > than

> > > 10 working days), and that the housing office will be calling me

> > > within the week to scchedle the repairs on the house. and if they

> > > dont she says shell call back next week to touch base.. She didnt

> > say

> > > what type of mold it is, but the stachy(cnat remember the full

> > name)

> > > is the most common in Hawaii, and it is one of the ones that im most

> > > allergic to also.

> > > If you cold go ahead and send me those links or articles (whichever

> > > they were lol) you mentioned that would be great that way if i

> > decide

> > > to go in cause theyre still draggin their butts, i have them on

> > hand.

> > > Thanks so much

> > >

> > > -Nina

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None of these are " enough " because killing mold is not " enough. " I

surveyed this group and other about a year ago, asking if they could

tell the difference between live mold and dead mold. Not one said

they could.

Killing will keep mold from spreading, but so will drying the area.

Carl Grimes

Healthy Habitats LLC

-----

> For books that have been exposed, UV light would be

the best way to kill mold spores.

>

> If toxic mold was in the air space of your room, any

fabric or porus furniture there will be contaminated, and

should be thrown out unless you can wash the uphostery.

Anything glass or non-porus should be ok. Ozone is not

always enough. I also heard chlorine does not do the trick.

>

> Cyndi

>

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" Carl E. Grimes " <grimes@...> wrote:

None of these are " enough " because killing mold is not " enough. " I

surveyed this group and other about a year ago, asking if they

could tell the difference between live mold and dead mold. Not one

said they could.

Killing will keep mold from spreading, but so will drying the area.

Carl Grimes

Healthy Habitats LLC

Yessir, and since low molecular weight T2 toxins from decomposing

spores can adsorb via intermolecular dipole attraction onto smooth

materials, the concept that spores can be washed away from hard

suface materials is very misleading when the toxins can still remain.

Just because it's glass, plastic, or a hard surface is no guarantee

it's toxin-free after remediation of fungal conidial detritus.

-

(I'm STILL not in favor of " tossing everything " since I've seen

similiar experiences to my own of having possessions denature after

five years or more in storage)

((And I had the same experience in FLA as I did in deserty Las Vegas.

Wonderful place - loved it, no particular problems - as long as I

stay away from particular mold plumes. Can't wait to go back and do

more kayaking amongst the birdz and crox. in the Everglades ))

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Don't know about the books. But I do know that upholstered items *CAN " T* be

cleaned.

I really have to emphasize this. It is impossible to get all the spores and

toxins out of

upholstery. Or mattresses, for that matter. Or pillows, either.

If you furniture is solid oak, it is possible you could toss the pillows and

seal the wood

with a safe sealer of some sort. That has worked for some people I know that are

extremely reactive to the toxins.

After saying this, I want to admit that I still have a couch and a couple of

cushions that

predate the remediation. I am still waiting to make sure I have gotten it all

(mold) before I

go out and spend more money on stuff I may have to throw out anyway. I am still

reducing

the size of my household belongings.

I don't know how bleach does in practice for others, but I mopped the whole

basement

down with it, and it worked wonders. Maybe if I had done it with borax, it may

have

worked too. I had to wear protection- a face mask, and gloves.

Also, I got a " hit " from an old shaving mug (ceramic) that was in a bathroom

closet that

was in the full-of-mold bathroom. I sent it through the dishwasher 2x, and

scrubbed it

down with BonAmi, still wasn't good enough, so I soaked it in vinegar, it is

better now (but

I still don't trust it). Maybe I should get some ammonia.

The point is that the toxins adsorb (stick to) anything just about. Just that

some things can

be cleaned, so we hear.

>

> > For books that have been exposed, UV light would be the best way to

> > kill mold spores.

> >

> > If toxic mold was in the air space of your room, any fabric or

> > porus furniture there will be contaminated, and should be thrown

> > out unless you can wash the uphostery. Anything glass or non-porus

> > should be ok. Ozone is not always enough. I also heard chlorine

> > does not do the trick.

> >

> > Cyndi

> >

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Hopefuly the furniture guy will say the same thing , because our

insurance wont pay to replace them otherwise

On Apr 20, 2006, at 6:56 AM, kl_clayton wrote:

> Don't know about the books. But I do know that upholstered items

> *CAN " T* be cleaned.

>

> I really have to emphasize this. It is impossible to get all the

> spores and toxins out of

> upholstery. Or mattresses, for that matter. Or pillows, either.

>

> If you furniture is solid oak, it is possible you could toss the

> pillows and seal the wood

> with a safe sealer of some sort. That has worked for some people I

> know that are

> extremely reactive to the toxins.

>

> After saying this, I want to admit that I still have a couch and a

> couple of cushions that

> predate the remediation. I am still waiting to make sure I have

> gotten it all (mold) before I

> go out and spend more money on stuff I may have to throw out

> anyway. I am still reducing

> the size of my household belongings.

>

> I don't know how bleach does in practice for others, but I mopped

> the whole basement

> down with it, and it worked wonders. Maybe if I had done it with

> borax, it may have

> worked too. I had to wear protection- a face mask, and gloves.

>

> Also, I got a " hit " from an old shaving mug (ceramic) that was in a

> bathroom closet that

> was in the full-of-mold bathroom. I sent it through the dishwasher

> 2x, and scrubbed it

> down with BonAmi, still wasn't good enough, so I soaked it in

> vinegar, it is better now (but

> I still don't trust it). Maybe I should get some ammonia.

>

> The point is that the toxins adsorb (stick to) anything just about.

> Just that some things can

> be cleaned, so we hear.

>

>

>

>

> >

> > > For books that have been exposed, UV light would be the best

> way to

> > > kill mold spores.

> > >

> > > If toxic mold was in the air space of your room, any fabric or

> > > porus furniture there will be contaminated, and should be thrown

> > > out unless you can wash the uphostery. Anything glass or non-porus

> > > should be ok. Ozone is not always enough. I also heard chlorine

> > > does not do the trick.

> > >

> > > Cyndi

> > >

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> FAIR USE NOTICE:

>

>

>

>

>

>

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