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--- Ruth Ruane <ruth@...> wrote:

I sat down yeterday to begin

> building a fragrance around coco absolute, I

> got a small sample from Butch Owen. After two tries

> I have only enough left for one more go,

> (I blend in 4mls of jojoba using a total of twenty

> drops, 3 of which are coco.

>

> I used vanilla abs, tonka abs, ambrette, turkish

> rose abs, boronia abs, cardomom abs, some

> really nice tangerine, and sweet orange, a wee bit

> of frangipani wax (in the second) ( as I am

> blending a solid perfume formula) tiny drop of

> rosewood, the may chang in the second and

> rose otto in the first, oh and a scant drop of

> aniseed in the second.

>

> The first one I dumped. I added too much rose otto,

> by too much I mean 2 drops instead of

> 1, it would never be right. Blah! Ok next one I

> thought I had something, then I added the

> tiniest drop of May Chang, big mistake, too lemony,

> too sharp, not round enough. As I said I

> have enough for one more go! Anybody have any ideas?

> Ruth

****************************************************

Hi Ruth

It looks like you're after a foody-floral blend, which

sounds yummy. Cocoa goes great with florals.You're

also adding in a spicy aspect with your tonka,cardomon

and aniseed which goes along with the foody deal.

For your next blend you might consider eliminating

some of the essences (hard to let go, I know). It will

simplify your blending as well as your subsequent

evaluation of the blend. For instance, maybe eliminate

vanilla since tonka (a great choice here!) already has

a vanilla thing going. Frangipani has a pretty low

odor intensity and probably isn't contributing a whole

lot. Not sure you need Ambrette either. The cocoa

probably has enought earthiness to ground it.

By the way, if you are lucky enough to have it, Pink

Lotus is divine with cocoa.

It sounds like you are on your way to creating a truly

delicious perfume. So timely for the holidays. I want

some! Cheers!

-Patty

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-- Ruth Ruane <ruth@... <ruth%40whitewitch.ie>> wrote:

>As I said I have enough for one more go! Anybody have any ideas?

> Ruth

Hello Ruth!

This sounds like an interesting (and tasty) project! Can't wait to hear what

you come up with.

Sometimes when I'm feeling a bit stumped I like to get inspiration from

reading... Perhaps you'd like to settle back with a cup of tea (or hot

chocolate!) and peruse this edition of White Lotus Aromatics Newsletter, if

you haven't already:

http://www.whitelotusaromatics.com//newsletters/cocoa.html

Happy blending!

Carryh

>

>

>

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At 03:26 PM 11/1/2006, you wrote:

>--- Ruth Ruane <ruth@...> wrote:

>

>I sat down yeterday to begin

> > building a fragrance around coco absolute, I

> > got a small sample from Butch Owen. After two tries

> > I have only enough left for one more go,

> > (I blend in 4mls of jojoba using a total of twenty

> > drops, 3 of which are coco.

> >

> > I used vanilla abs, tonka abs, ambrette, turkish

> > rose abs, boronia abs, cardomom abs, some

> > really nice tangerine, and sweet orange, a wee bit

> > of frangipani wax (in the second) ( as I am

> > blending a solid perfume formula) tiny drop of

> > rosewood, the may chang in the second and

> > rose otto in the first, oh and a scant drop of

> > aniseed in the second.

> >

> > The first one I dumped. I added too much rose otto,

> > by too much I mean 2 drops instead of

> > 1, it would never be right. Blah! Ok next one I

> > thought I had something, then I added the

> > tiniest drop of May Chang, big mistake, too lemony,

> > too sharp, not round enough. As I said I

> > have enough for one more go! Anybody have any ideas?

> > Ruth

>****************************************************

>

>Hi Ruth

>

>It looks like you're after a foody-floral blend, which

>sounds yummy. Cocoa goes great with florals.You're

>also adding in a spicy aspect with your tonka,cardomon

>and aniseed which goes along with the foody deal.

>

>For your next blend you might consider eliminating

>some of the essences (hard to let go, I know). It will

>simplify your blending as well as your subsequent

>evaluation of the blend. For instance, maybe eliminate

>vanilla since tonka (a great choice here!) already has

>a vanilla thing going. Frangipani has a pretty low

>odor intensity and probably isn't contributing a whole

>lot. Not sure you need Ambrette either. The cocoa

>probably has enought earthiness to ground it.

>

>By the way, if you are lucky enough to have it, Pink

>Lotus is divine with cocoa.

>

>It sounds like you are on your way to creating a truly

>delicious perfume. So timely for the holidays. I want

>some! Cheers!

>

>-Patty

I agree with Patty that the spices can be booted up, and the fragi

can be lost -- boronia, too! You have any nutmeg butter? It's

luscious, waxy, cheap from liberty. I need to get some more Pink

lotus, thanks for the reminder, patty -- there goes my bank account again!

I use lemon myrtle now all the time for a round, sweet lemon note. I

also tend to dilute my strong intensity essences, from galbanum to

lemon myrtle. It really helps with the control.

To me, constraint and patience are the biggest aids to perfumery.

Mandy gives a good example of this in her book with oakmoss. Six

months after making a blend, she discovered it had overpowered the

entire blend. I tincture lots of stuff down to 10-20%, blend, wait,

observe. You can always add more, but can't delete.

I adore solid perfumes, and love the scented body care stuff you

sent, so I want to smell the final product, too!

Anya McCoy

Anya's Garden of Natural Perfume http://anyasgarden.com

Artisan Natural Perfumers Guild http://artisannaturalperfumers.org

Natural Perfumers Chat Group

/

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Thanks you guys for your advice, I was so inspired I had to sit down in my

studio this

morning and begin again. Here is what I came up with,

I feel like sharing the formula because first of all it's a work in progress, we

might all learn

something. I can't say for sure how it is going to turn out as I am waiting for

the marraige

to happen, but it smells promising, very promising, I also want to share because

I got

some really great advice so I feel as if half the work was done for me...

I lowered the concentration of coco, partly because I wanted to keep a drop of

the

amazing sample but mostly because I felt like it was the best thing to do, so I

started with

coco abs, 2 drops (precious) then I added just 1 drop of tonka, I knew I would

come back

to that one, then I thought about the NP post re ambergris and chocolate, so I

took down

my ambergris tincture and for the first time I used it, just 1 drop ( a tiny

one) then back to

the tonka, 1 more I felt would give the base enough strenght of character. Then

on to the

heart. Turkish rose absolute, just 1 drop to start, then I tentatively add 1

drop of

cardamom absolute, I was brave, so it was a good drop. Then the pink lotus abs,

1 drop

first, smell, ah yes I could see where this was going, 1 more, then (Flowing)

back to the

turkish rose 1 more drop, then the nutmeg, (I had no nutmeg butter) I felt like

a nice drop

would comlpment the cardamom, so 1 drop of nutmeg abs, what a heart. Then the

top, I

had sweet orange out to add, but I knew that was all wrong, too sweet, sticky

even, I took

down the wild orange (thanks Butch Owen) first I added 2 tangerine, really nice,

then the

wild orange, 1 smell, 2 smell, 3 smell, ah wow! then the anise, I was brave, 2

anise, then

back to the tangerine, 2 more drops, what a balance.

so what I have is really promising, tangerine, wild orange and anise TOP,

turkish rose,

cardamom, pink lotus, nutmeg HEART, and tonka, coco, ambergris BASE.

I will let you know how it develops

I just put a bit on my wrist, strange citrus notes, then followed by a flood of

flowers

almondy chocolate, the tonka is coming in very soon , but is it upsetting the

heart? I think

so, but wait it is lifting....tune in tomorrow for another episode of

........coco absolute.

I am going to make it into a solid now and contain it, things can change with

beeswax, lets

see.

Ruth

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> Here is what I came up with,

>I can't say for sure how it is going to turn out as I am waiting for the

marraige

> to happen, but it smells promising, very promising,

> I will let you know how it develops

> I just put a bit on my wrist, strange citrus notes, then followed by a flood

of flowers

> almondy chocolate, the tonka is coming in very soon , but is it upsetting the

heart? I

>think so, but wait it is lifting....tune in tomorrow for another episode of

........coco

absolute. I am going to make it into a solid now and contain it, things can

change with

beeswax, lets see.

>

> Ruth

>

OK You guys didn't even have to wait till tomorrow and needless to say neither

did I, NO

NO NO I say! Ater only a few hours we have what could best be desribed as

Terry's

Chocolate Orange! Not exactly what I was going for! Coco is strong! Good job I

have still 1

drop left for another go, I don't think the old credit card can stretch any

further.

I started again, I won't bore you with the details till I find out if it's good!

I will just tell you

it's totally different!

Now I have got to make some food for my family!

Ruth

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--- Ruth Ruane <ruth@...> wrote:

> Coco is strong! Good job I have still 1

> drop left for another go, I don't think the old

> credit card can stretch any further.

>

> I started again, I won't bore you with the details

> till I find out if it's good! I will just tell you

> it's totally different!

>

> Now I have got to make some food for my family!

>

> Ruth

>

>

Hi Ruth,

I don't know if other people have had this experience

but in my experiences with cocoa, it has grown a

little bit over time and become very strong. My

feeling is that I need to tone the chocolate way down

when I try again to make chocolate perfumes. I wanted

something much more subtle than what I came up with on

my first tries. I have also been wondering if I just

have the wrong cocoa absolute. I have one from

Liberty and I'm not sure it's delicious enough.

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> Hi Ruth,

> I don't know if other people have had this experience

> but in my experiences with cocoa, it has grown a

> little bit over time and become very strong. My

> feeling is that I need to tone the chocolate way down

> when I try again to make chocolate perfumes. I wanted

> something much more subtle than what I came up with on

> my first tries. I have also been wondering if I just

> have the wrong cocoa absolute. I have one from

> Liberty and I'm not sure it's delicious enough.

>

>

************************************************************

Hi

You raise a good point. There are in fact at least two " types " of

cocoa absolute that I have smelled. The one I use in my lip balm

line (in case anyone is interested) is from Essential Oil

University, and it has that sweet warm chocolatey smell like you

just walked into a chocolate factory. The other one I smelled (I

think it was from Liberty but can't be sure) was less sweet and

more, er, earthy, for lack of a better word. Depending on the effect

you're going for, one might work better than the other. I have made

some perfume blends using the sweet EOU stuff, and I haven't noticed

it dominating the blend or growing stronger over time.

Cheers!

-Patty

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>

> > Hi Ruth,

> > I don't know if other people have had this experience

> > but in my experiences with cocoa, it has grown a

> > little bit over time and become very strong. My

> > feeling is that I need to tone the chocolate way down

> > when I try again to make chocolate perfumes. I wanted

> > something much more subtle than what I came up with on

> > my first tries. I have also been wondering if I just

> > have the wrong cocoa absolute. I have one from

> > Liberty and I'm not sure it's delicious enough.

> >

> >

> ************************************************************

>

> Hi

>

> You raise a good point. There are in fact at least two " types " of

> cocoa absolute that I have smelled. The one I use in my lip balm

> line (in case anyone is interested) is from Essential Oil

> University, and it has that sweet warm chocolatey smell like you

> just walked into a chocolate factory. The other one I smelled (I

> think it was from Liberty but can't be sure) was less sweet and

> more, er, earthy, for lack of a better word. Depending on the effect

> you're going for, one might work better than the other. I have made

> some perfume blends using the sweet EOU stuff, and I haven't noticed

> it dominating the blend or growing stronger over time.

>

> Cheers!

>

> -Patty

>

Patty, are either of those coco absolutes soluble in oil? I have a rich, sweet

one from White

Lotus, which is soluble in water, not in oil, and poorly in alcohol.

T.

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>

> I started again, I won't bore you with the details till I find out if

it's good! I will just tell you

> it's totally different!

>

> Now I have got to make some food for my family!

>

> Ruth

>

Hi Ruth,

Just to let you know, I really enjoyed your description -you managed to

create real suspense<G>

A thought to the coco - it seems to be overpowering your creation. If

I'm working with something that tends to be too strong, sometimes it

helps to create everything else, then dip a toothpick lightly in the

essence of choice, and stir the rest with it. This way you're only

introducing a trace of scent ( and stretches the drop). If I were in

your situation, I would most likely dillute the drop a little as well

(carefully, but at least a little).

Best of luck, and I'd love to hear how this story ends

ne

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> Patty, are either of those coco absolutes soluble in

> oil? I have a rich, sweet one from White

> Lotus, which is soluble in water, not in oil, and

> poorly in alcohol.

>

> T.

**************************************************

Hmmm. That seems odd. You might want to ask

about that. The one from Liberty or

wherever wasn't mine so I can't say what it was

soluble in. But the one I have from EOU is easily

soluble in alcohol and oil.

-Patty

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>

>

>

> > Patty, are either of those coco absolutes soluble in

> > oil? I have a rich, sweet one from White

> > Lotus, which is soluble in water, not in oil, and

> > poorly in alcohol.

> >

> > T.

> **************************************************

>

> Hmmm. That seems odd. You might want to ask

> about that. The one from Liberty or

> wherever wasn't mine so I can't say what it was

> soluble in. But the one I have from EOU is easily

> soluble in alcohol and oil.

>

> -Patty

Hi Patty and ,

I dissagree, Patty. I have the EOU Cocoa absolute and it is definately not

soluble in oil. I

just tested it, just to be sure, in Jojoba and Fract. Coconut and it separates

from both. It is

mostly soluble in alcohol but some dark color sinks to the bottom like a hazy

sludge. I'm

assuming that is what means by poorly soluble. I do agree that it is

fantastic and

ever so yummy however! :)

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> > > Patty, are either of those coco absolutes

> soluble in oil? > > > T.

> > **************************************************

But the one I have from EOU is easily

> > soluble in alcohol and oil.

-Patty

>

> Hi Patty and ,

> I dissagree, Patty. I have the EOU Cocoa absolute

> and it is definately not soluble in oil. I

> just tested it, just to be sure, in Jojoba and

> Fract. Coconut and it separates from both.

It was my perception that in this case you just let it

steep in the oil or infuse if you would for at least 2

weeks then use a coffee filter or some such thing to

strain out the unused or unmixed EO or in this case

why not absolute?

BB

PS teachers complain this type of thinking is " Leaping "

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-----Original Message-----

>> Patty, are either of those coco absolutes soluble in

>> oil? I have a rich, sweet one from White

>> Lotus, which is soluble in water, not in oil, and

>> poorly in alcohol.

>> T.

**************************************************

>Hmmm. That seems odd. You might want to ask

> about that. The one from Liberty or

>wherever wasn't mine so I can't say what it was

>soluble in. But the one I have from EOU is easily

>soluble in alcohol and oil.

>-Patty

Not so odd actually ... the Cocoa Absolute I have isn't oil soluble.

Actually, to date I've personally not come across an oil soluble one.

*Smile*

Chris

Make Your Own Artisan Natural Perfumed Soaps For The Holidays

Handmade Bar & Liquid Castile Soap Bases - Ready To Use

http://www.alittleolfactory.com

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>

> Hi Patty and ,

> I dissagree, Patty. I have the EOU Cocoa absolute

> and it is definately not soluble in oil. I

> just tested it, just to be sure, in Jojoba and

> Fract. Coconut and it separates from both. It is

> mostly soluble in alcohol but some dark color sinks

> to the bottom like a hazy sludge. I'm

> assuming that is what means by poorly

> soluble. I do agree that it is fantastic and

> ever so yummy however! :)

************************************************

I stand corrected. When I went and put some in jojoba

oil it didn't dissolve. I guess I thought it did

because I use it in the lip balm, but there you've got

waxes and things so the cocoa particles can remain

kind of suspended-like. But it seemed to dissolve

pretty completely in alcohol. So I can't exlain our

differing results there. Go figure.

-Patty

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