Re: Who is formulating perfumes right now?

September 3, 2006

Who is formulating perfumes right now?

I'm on a temporary hiatus with creation of perfume until after my move.

However, I can live vicariously through y'all if you share what you're

working on right now?

Theme?

Notes?

Roadblocks?

Breakthroughs?

I'm formulating right now. It's a spicy blend with a 10 year old patchouli

base. I know. You're shocked.

(btw.....someone had said that Patchouli doesn't age well. I have to

disagree. The older Patchouli gets the better it gets. Jeanne Rose has a

30+ year old Patchouli and it is beyond divine. It could be it's own

perfume it smells so good!)

I started with Rose, Clove and Patchouli. I tend to be really heavy handed

with my blending and the clove is just too much. I've had it aging for

almost a month now. Although I thought the Patchouli would overtake the

Clove because I used so little - it's just trying to rule the blend.) It

smells really good even with the clove being so strong but it needs some

softening up. I am thinking more floral? Or maybe a floral wax. I have

Tuberose, Jasmine, and Orange Blossom wax. Patchouli and borboniana

absolute is one of my faves but I'm wondering if I should live a little and

add something different instead of more borboniana. This is an oil

base perfume.

Thanks,

September 4, 2006

--- <bellaumbra@...> wrote:

> I started with Rose, Clove and Patchouli. I tend to

> be really heavy handed

> with my blending and the clove is just too much.

> I've had it aging for

> almost a month now. Although I thought the

> Patchouli would overtake the

> Clove because I used so little - it's just trying to

> rule the blend.) It

> smells really good even with the clove being so

> strong but it needs some

> softening up. I am thinking more floral? Or maybe

> a floral wax. I have

> Tuberose, Jasmine, and Orange Blossom wax.

> Patchouli and borboniana

> absolute is one of my faves but I'm wondering if I

> should live a little and

> add something different instead of more

> borboniana. This is an oil

> base perfume.

>

> Thanks,

>

***************************************************

Hi

I was curious about what you said about using floral

wax in your oil-based perfume. How do you do that? Do

you have to heat the mixture up until the wax melts

into the oil, or do you just macerate it all together

and then filter out the residual wax later?

Also on your blend, I happen to have both orange

flower wax and jasmine wax (which I have still not

used for anything). I'm thinking that the orange

flower wax, like orange flower itself, has a sort of

dry or woody aspect about it in addition to its floral

quality. That might lock with the woodiness of the

patchouli, which could be a good thing or a bad thing

depending on what you're going for. The jasmine wax

has a very round sultry quality to it that might tend

to soften the woodiness of the patchouli and make that

perfume extra sexy. OF course, if what is really

bothering you is too much clove, you may just have to

start over again and put in less clove. It's a tough

one to clobber with other things.

-Patty

__________________________________________________

September 4, 2006

-----Original Message-----

From:

[mailto: ]

On Behalf Of West

Hi

I was curious about what you said about using floral wax in your oil-based

perfume. How do you do that? Do you have to heat the mixture up until the

wax melts into the oil, or do you just macerate it all together and then

filter out the residual wax later?

Also on your blend, I happen to have both orange flower wax and jasmine wax

(which I have still not used for anything). I'm thinking that the orange

flower wax, like orange flower itself, has a sort of dry or woody aspect

about it in addition to its floral quality. That might lock with the

woodiness of the patchouli, which could be a good thing or a bad thing

depending on what you're going for. The jasmine wax has a very round sultry

quality to it that might tend to soften the woodiness of the patchouli and

make that perfume extra sexy. OF course, if what is really bothering you is

too much clove, you may just have to start over again and put in less clove.

It's a tough one to clobber with other things.

-Patty

Hi Patty,

Thank you for your comments about the floral waxes I think I'll try the

Jasmine wax and see what happens.

The perfume will end up being a solid since I'm going to be adding a floral

wax to it, and I'll use organic beeswax to set it up. I like to experiment

(much to the horror of my family at times...!) so what I might do is close

my eyes and reach into one of my special boxes to see what I pull out.

Whatever I pull out ends up in the blend.....lol

September 4, 2006

>

> I'm on a temporary hiatus with creation of perfume until after my move.

> However, I can live vicariously through y'all if you share what you're

> working on right now?

> Theme?

> Notes?

> Roadblocks?

> Breakthroughs?

>

> Anya

> http://anyasgarden.com/perfumes.htm Parfums Natural

> http://artisannaturalperfumers.com The Artisan Natural Perfumers Guild

> http://.com The Premier Natural Perfume Site Gateway

>

Hi anya,

It must be awful having all your stuff packed away. Still it is

amazing how an artist can carry on developing skills even while the

tools are laid down, in fact I find with painting that if I leave

things for a while and don't paint at all my work actually improves

and I often come up with something entirely new, as if my talents are

being developed on an unconscious level.

I have to tell you about an idea for a note I have to try... toasted

coconut!!! I was thinking I love that smell of freshly toasted

desicated coconut. It is so much sweeter and nuttier than fresh

coconut. I thought that if I toasted it first and then while it is

still warm tincture it. It would be such a delicious smell to

capture... then add a smidgen of cinnamon...and some other warm exotic

spices and tropical florals...mmmmh!

BTW I have updated my website...check it out!!! There is a free

mandala card reading page...took me ages to do...you get to pick a

card and see its hidden meaning... what d'ya think?

I am being featured in a national Sunday newspaper here in ireland

next Sunday...so I had to do my website up a bit.

I am doing a separate website for my perfume collection. I am not

giving any clues except that I am having the perfume bottles designed

by a local glass designer Hogan here is a look at some of her

work to date http://www.artessence.ie

keep your un-packing till a friday...best day of the week to move into

a new home!!!

http://www.whitewitch.ie

September 5, 2006

Well, I'd like to be formulating one, but the supplier I ordered my

oils from takes about a month to send stuff, and there were still a

number of oils backordered when my order finally arrived last week, so

I'm also living vicariously for the moment. I know it's going to be a

cedar base note and lemon/pepper for a salty note at the top. I'm

trying to figure out if I want to add some oakmoss or something to

make is strongly, er, arboreal, or if I want to add a slight floral

note. I don't really care for florals, though, so it would have to be

a *very* slight hint.

Jes

September 5, 2006

At 12:53 AM 9/4/2006, you wrote:

>(btw.....someone had said that Patchouli doesn't age well. I have to

>disagree. The older Patchouli gets the better it gets. Jeanne Rose has a

>30+ year old Patchouli and it is beyond divine. It could be it's own

>perfume it smells so good!)

>

>I started with Rose, Clove and Patchouli. I tend to be really heavy handed

>with my blending and the clove is just too much. I've had it aging for

>almost a month now. Although I thought the Patchouli would overtake the

>Clove because I used so little - it's just trying to rule the blend.) It

>smells really good even with the clove being so strong but it needs some

>softening up.

Oh, honey, be careful with clove. I would make a 10% dilution, and then not

use more than a fraction of one percent in a blend. It will get stronger

over time, overwhelming the blend. Plus, it's a horrid sensitizer.

>I am thinking more floral? Or maybe a floral wax. I have

>Tuberose, Jasmine, and Orange Blossom wax. Patchouli and borboniana

>absolute is one of my faves but I'm wondering if I should live a little and

>add something different instead of more borboniana. This is an oil

>base perfume.

ly, I hope you can save it, but I'm not sure you can. Toss the stuff

is something I learned early on, instead of wasting good stuff to try to

fix something. Fairchild #2 was like that this year -- damn choya nakh

needs to be less than .5%. One percent ruined the mod. Tossed it in a

heartbeat.

Anya

http://anyasgarden.com/perfumes.htm Parfums Natural

http://artisannaturalperfumers.com The Artisan Natural Perfumers Guild

http://.com The Premier Natural Perfume Site Gateway

September 5, 2006

At 11:14 AM 9/5/2006, you wrote:

>Well, I'd like to be formulating one, but the supplier I ordered my

>oils from takes about a month to send stuff, and there were still a

>number of oils backordered when my order finally arrived last week, so

>I'm also living vicariously for the moment. I know it's going to be a

>cedar base note and lemon/pepper for a salty note at the top. I'm

>trying to figure out if I want to add some oakmoss or something to

>make is strongly, er, arboreal, or if I want to add a slight floral

>note. I don't really care for florals, though, so it would have to be

>a *very* slight hint.

Hi Jes

Oakmoss absoute, esp. the green, adds a nice salty note. Just make a 10% or

less dilution, and then add very LITTLE to your blend, as it grows over

time, and can overwhelm your blend. You might try four mods of diff %.

Anya

http://anyasgarden.com/perfumes.htm Parfums Natural

http://artisannaturalperfumers.com The Artisan Natural Perfumers Guild

http://.com The Premier Natural Perfume Site Gateway

September 5, 2006

> BTW I have updated my website...check it out!!! There is a free

> mandala card reading page...took me ages to do...you get to pick a

> card and see its hidden meaning... what d'ya think?

Very nice! Did you do the artwork yourself? If so, you're to be commended. I

know that takes a lot of time and effort.

> I am being featured in a national Sunday newspaper here in ireland

> next Sunday...so I had to do my website up a bit.

Congratulations!

Beth

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September 5, 2006

> Anya said:Toss the stuff

> is something I learned early on, instead of wasting good stuff to

try to

> fix something. Fairchild #2 was like that this year -- damn choya nakh

> needs to be less than .5%. One percent ruined the mod. Tossed it in a

> heartbeat.

That is something I completly agree with, I will stick to say

twenty-twenty five drops (can be any number of ingredients) and if I

toss it and learn something it is only costing 20 drops which is only

about 1ml of precious oils and essences. I will toss mabey 4-5 lots

per session, in fact I keep a jar especially for the tossed lots.

Smells yeach!

Then I stop when I have something I remotely like, I will wear it and

leave it till the next day, try it on a few people and mull it over,

deciding what it needs or what I will do differently next time. Then I

will eventually start again with that basic structure, clean sheet as

it were, when I have a hold of some essence I want to try in it and I

will sit down for another session.

Still haven't made one yet that I would say I wouldn't change a thing

about...when I do everyone will hear about it as it will be the

creation of " White Witch Number 1 " LOL!( Not really what I will call it!

Ruth

September 5, 2006

--- Ruth Ruane <ruth@...> wrote:

I will toss

> mabey 4-5 lots

> per session, in fact I keep a jar especially for the

> tossed lots.

> Smells yeach!

****************************************************

Ha! That's funny Ruth! I have one of those too. I call

it the " Perfume Spitoon " . I figure one day maybe I can

use it for something - toilet bowl freshener,

possibly. Waste not, want not, 'ya know.

-Patty

__________________________________________________

September 6, 2006

On 9/5/06, Anya <mccoy@...> wrote:

>

> >

> ly, I hope you can save it, but I'm not sure you can. Toss the stuff

> is something I learned early on, instead of wasting good stuff to try to

> fix something. Fairchild #2 was like that this year -- damn choya nakh

> needs to be less than .5%. One percent ruined the mod. Tossed it in a

> heartbeat.

>

> Anya

>

Hey there,

I have been ruining so many blends that I decided to dilute almost

everything to 10% or less and just blending that way. Have any other

beginners found this helpful? I found that with the rate of

destruction, if I had to toss the formula, at least I wasn't doing so

tearfully as the precious tuberose and pink lotus went into the mop

water. (That is a sad, sad day)

I also found I was able to more accurately define the scents I wanted

to add when they are diluted. Some of them are hard to evaluate in

the bottle. Is this something employed by experienced perfumers or is

this a safety net only for the lowley, sniveling beginner, such as

myself. I have to say that even if I'm the only one using this

method, it has taken me from making lots of flat, lifeless blends that

smell nice to a few successes, one for my husband and one for me, and

the best thing about it all is you don't have to dilute it a ton

before you can drip it on your wrist and test it. It is helpfull for

me to test it along the way, before and after additions of certain

components. Anyone else?

Thanks for this discussion. I needed to vent! in north Dallas

>

September 6, 2006