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>

> A friend forwarded this link to me, claiming that some are touting this

> corn-derivative as a natural fixative that is great for middle and top

> notes. The chemical name totally confuses me, I admit it. I mean

water is

> monohydrate oxygen or something like that, right ? ;-)

>

>

http://www.personalcare.noveon.com/TechnicalDataSheets/TDS-367GlucamP20Fragrance\

..pdf

>

> I've written to a perfume chemist friend and hope he can answer me

soon --

> I think he's on vacation. If anyone here has chemistry knowledge,

please

> vet this for us. I'm skeptical about the natural claim.

>

> It's called Glucam and the description in the article says:

>

> PPG-20 Methyl glucose Ether twenty mole propxylate of methyl glucose.

>

>

There is some talk about this on another perfumery group I'm on.

There is a perfumer on there that has tested glucam, and if I read

correctly the results were really good. I think the particular person

that tested it is on this group, too, but I'm not certain. If she is,

perhaps she will have more info to share.

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At 08:43 AM 7/1/2006, you wrote:

>

> >

> > A friend forwarded this link to me, claiming that some are touting this

> > corn-derivative as a natural fixative that is great for middle and top

> > notes. The chemical name totally confuses me, I admit it. I mean

>water is

> > monohydrate oxygen or something like that, right ? ;-)

> >

> >

>http://www.personalcare.noveon.com/TechnicalDataSheets/TDS-367GlucamP20Fragranc\

e.pdf

> >

> > I've written to a perfume chemist friend and hope he can answer me

>soon --

> > I think he's on vacation. If anyone here has chemistry knowledge,

>please

> > vet this for us. I'm skeptical about the natural claim.

> >

> > It's called Glucam and the description in the article says:

> >

> > PPG-20 Methyl glucose Ether twenty mole propxylate of methyl glucose.

> >

> >

>

>There is some talk about this on another perfumery group I'm on.

>There is a perfumer on there that has tested glucam, and if I read

>correctly the results were really good. I think the particular person

>that tested it is on this group, too, but I'm not certain. If she is,

>perhaps she will have more info to share.

Well, i hope if the perfumer has good info about it being natural, and

they're a member of this group, they'll talk about it here. Natural

perfumery really needs a good " extender " for the evaporation of our natural

aromatics -- synthetic perfumery doesn't have such a need, really since

those darn chemicals are too persistent, LOL! Well, I guess they could use

it a bit because even synth perfumes need naturals to smell good, as many

of them admit ;-)

I'm just hoping this product isn't a hype because so many of the

synth-sellers are trying to jump on the increasingly-popular naturals

bandwagon, I would suspect they'd stretch the truth about a product.

If they are telling the truth, I would be the first to get in line to test

this product!

Anya

http://artisannaturalperfumers.com The Artisan Natural Perfumers Guild

http://.com The premier site on Natural Perfume

/

Biggest, most dynamic natural perfumery chat group

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Hi,

This is my first time replying to the group and I am unable to snip the original

post. Is this something new with ?

I will therefore post my reply on top.

Jeanna, Glucan you were inquiring about is a polymer. PPG stands for

polypropylene glycol. It has been a long time since I've used my knowledge of

the polymerization proces, which was always basic, I admit, but although it says

that Glucan is derived from glucose, PPG was used in polymerization. Most likely

a small chain of PPG was used as a matrix to which the molecules of methyl

glucose (ether of glucose) were attached (this is a guess).

On the other hand, I am not aware of methyl glucose being a naturally occurring

substance either. Glucose, and sugars in general, are widely used as raw

material in chemical industry, among others for production of surfectants, or

foaming agents.

Thus, if your concern is with Glucan being natural - it is not.

Regards,

Ivana

www.skinbeautique.com

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> There is some talk about this on another perfumery group I'm on.

> There is a perfumer on there that has tested glucam, and if I read

> correctly the results were really good. I think the particular person

> that tested it is on this group, too, but I'm not certain. If she is,

> perhaps she will have more info to share.

>

hi, yes, that was me.

glucam is a product that is derived from corn, and it is

an ingredient in some natural products, creams etc.

i have a web page that has the info and links

www.premierline.com/perfume/info

i will be offering this product in small quantities for people to

test.

i have tested it and it does extend the life of top and some of the

more volatile middle notes.

it does nothing for less volatile notes.

even the most volatile oils, like the citrus, lasted at least 1/2 hour

longer.

-linda

The Perfumer's Apprentice

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> There is some talk about this on another perfumery group I'm on.

> There is a perfumer on there that has tested glucam, and if I read

> correctly the results were really good. I think the particular person

> that tested it is on this group, too, but I'm not certain. If she is,

> perhaps she will have more info to share.

>

hi, yes, that was me.

glucam is a product that is derived from corn, and it is

an ingredient in some natural products, creams etc.

i have a web page that has the info and links

www.premierline.com/perfume/info

i will be offering this product in small quantities for people to

test.

i have tested it and it does extend the life of top and some of the

more volatile middle notes.

it does nothing for less volatile notes.

even the most volatile oils, like the citrus, lasted at least 1/2 hour

longer.

-linda

The Perfumer's Apprentice

Hi,

Just my 2 cents worth, but the fact that the word DERIVED is used is usually

an indicator that it is not a naturally occurring component.

I have tried to find other information with regard to this chemical, and the

only thing I can come up with is that the pharmaceutical industry has DERIVED it

to be a way of making insoluble drugs soluble so they can be used for liquid

suspensions for children............YIPPEEEEE!!!!

Again, just my opinion........

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> hi, yes, that was me.

> glucam is a product that is derived from corn, and it is

> an ingredient in some natural products, creams etc.

>

> Hi,

> Just my 2 cents worth, but the fact that the word DERIVED is used

is usually an indicator that it is not a naturally occurring component.

> I have tried to find other information with regard to this

chemical, and the only thing I can come up with is that the

pharmaceutical industry has DERIVED it to be a way of making insoluble

drugs soluble so they can be used for liquid suspensions for

children............YIPPEEEEE!!!!

>

> Again, just my opinion........

Re: Well, another interesting thingy.

There are many different variations of Glucam on the Noveon website.

The one used for perfumery / fixative for fragrance is the Glucam P-20..

Perhaps a different formulation from the one used in childrens meds...

their website address is http://www.noveon.com

I have been interested in this product as well, just have not had the

time to explore it further yet.

Z..............

Zz's Petals, Parfume Moderne

http://www.zzspetals.com

> __________________________________________________

>

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>

> > There is some talk about this on another perfumery group I'm on.

> > There is a perfumer on there that has tested glucam, and if I read

> > correctly the results were really good. I think the particular person

> > that tested it is on this group, too, but I'm not certain. If she is,

> > perhaps she will have more info to share.

> >

i was in a rush last time i posted, and have not had the time to reply

further to this thread. i'm back now.

just to clear up any misunderstanding.

on another group that i belong to that discusses all areas of

perfumery ingredients, i had mentioned that i had found an ingredient

(after much searching) that was odorless and that is used in the

perfumery industry as a fixative for top and middle notes. in my posts

i mentioned that it seemed to be marketed by the company as natural,

but i also mentioned that i needed to look into this further. that's

why i did not mention it on this group, and i had only mentioned that

it was derived from corn, i did not yet know how it was produced. but

first i also wanted to test it to see if it did what they were saying.

(it does)

so when i saw that someone referred to those other posts in this

group, i didn't want to ignore it, but did not have time for a proper

reply. (btw-the headers on my posts in the other group was always

" Fragrance Fixative " not " Natural Fragrance Fixative " ).

now, there was talk awhile back about the ionones, alpha and beta, and

that they were being used in natural perfumes, yet the processes used

to produce these products are certainly complicated and involve

chemical reactions. so i didn't want to reject glucam purely for the

reason of how it was produced.

i was also confused by the notion of whether the molecule existed in

nature. i had heard that even glycerin has to have it's ester bonds

split from the fats (trylicerides), so i was not even sure that the

molecule we know as glycerin occurs naturally all on its own (without

the trylicerides). i'm not a chemist.

the more i'm learning about the ingredients of perfumery, the grayer

the area concerning what is defined in the business as " natural " ,

there does not seem to be agreement. some say only botanicals, some

allow manipulated/split up molecules, and so on.

i have heard from customers that they have seen glucam listed as an

ingredient on " natural " skin care products. (i have not seen this, but

i have not looked), but by whose definition of " natural "

until i had done more research, i was not going to tout this as a

natural product, only that it was produced from corn, as glycerin is

(can be).

so i've decided, for the purposes of my shop, i've given up trying to

decide if an ingredient is " natural " or not, i simply tell my

customers that if they want to create a completely all natural

perfume, they should stick to pure essential oils and absolutes only,

no ionones or linalool or anything like that , and no additives. but i

still offer the full range of ingredients, and it's an interesting

process learning about all of them.

even though i was not going to mention glucam on this group because i

was not positive that it would be defined as " natural " , i am still

happy to have found a safe, odorless, non-petrochemical fixative

ingredient produced from a vegetable product that makes lots of my

customers happier with their top and middle notes.

-linda

The Perfumer's Apprentice

www.perfumersapprentice.com

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Hi guys,

I would like to experience first hand with this fixative.

So, does anyone know where to get this Glucam P-20 and how much does it cost?

Happy holidays to all and be safe,

BO.

---------------------------------

Want to be your own boss? Learn how on Small Business.

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>

> Hi guys,

> I would like to experience first hand with this fixative.

> So, does anyone know where to get this Glucam P-20 and how much

does it cost?

> Happy holidays to all and be safe,

> BO.

>

hi BO

i responded to your email privately, letting

you know that you can get it from me.

-linda

The Perfumer's Apprentice

www.perfumersapprentice.com

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At 05:15 PM 7/3/2006, you wrote:

>on another group that i belong to that discusses all areas of

>perfumery ingredients, i had mentioned that i had found an ingredient

>(after much searching) that was odorless and that is used in the

>perfumery industry as a fixative for top and middle notes. in my posts

>i mentioned that it seemed to be marketed by the company as natural,

>but i also mentioned that i needed to look into this further. that's

>why i did not mention it on this group, and i had only mentioned that

>it was derived from corn, i did not yet know how it was produced. but

>first i also wanted to test it to see if it did what they were saying.

Sounds like a great product for those using synthetics in their perfumes,

, and it's great you sourced it out and tested it, because I know how

you set high standards for your products and follow through on research.

>(it does)

>so when i saw that someone referred to those other posts in this

>group, i didn't want to ignore it, but did not have time for a proper

>reply. (btw-the headers on my posts in the other group was always

> " Fragrance Fixative " not " Natural Fragrance Fixative " ).

No problemo, we never even saw them,and if those folks don't care....

>now, there was talk awhile back about the ionones, alpha and beta, and

>that they were being used in natural perfumes, yet the processes used

>to produce these products are certainly complicated and involve

>chemical reactions. so i didn't want to reject glucam purely for the

>reason of how it was produced.

another perfume chemist I wrote to replied today:

>The product below may well be chemically derived from an original natural

>product (glucose from corn?), but that, of itself, doesn't make it natural.

>To be 'natural', the chemical modifications would have had to be carried out

>by a natural process e.g. fermentation, enzymic modification etc., and there

>is no indication that I can see from the advertising blurb that this is the

>case.

>

>We have lots of available natural fixatives in Natural Perfumery - I don't

>see that we need any non-natural ones.

Not sure how the ionones are produced, but if they're by the processes he

says are OK, and we all (myself included!) snap out of our lethargy about

researching them further, we may use them. I do know goodscents was selling

the one that smells like violets, isolated (I believe from cassie absolute.)

>the more i'm learning about the ingredients of perfumery, the grayer

>the area concerning what is defined in the business as " natural " ,

>there does not seem to be agreement. some say only botanicals, some

>allow manipulated/split up molecules, and so on.

My definition, and this is only me speaking, is that as long as it comes

from a botanical source (or goat hair, etc., lol) I'll use it, and if I

follow the perfume chemists that work in naturals guidance, I won't go

wrong if I am looking for isolates, but remember I'm not using them (yet?)

and I haven't looked deeply into the issue. The wide array of natural

aromatics I use are quite sufficient for my needs, and if I move further

into the other areas of scent, I'll report here every inch of the way.

>i have heard from customers that they have seen glucam listed as an

>ingredient on " natural " skin care products. (i have not seen this, but

>i have not looked), but by whose definition of " natural "

Well, many companies that claim " natural " aren't, as we all know.

>so i've decided, for the purposes of my shop, i've given up trying to

>decide if an ingredient is " natural " or not, i simply tell my

>customers that if they want to create a completely all natural

>perfume, they should stick to pure essential oils and absolutes only,

>no ionones or linalool or anything like that , and no additives. but i

>still offer the full range of ingredients, and it's an interesting

>process learning about all of them.

did YOU ever do research into how the ionones or linalools are

produced? Can you tell us, if you did?

>even though i was not going to mention glucam on this group because i

>was not positive that it would be defined as " natural " , i am still

>happy to have found a safe, odorless, non-petrochemical fixative

>ingredient produced from a vegetable product that makes lots of my

>customers happier with their top and middle notes.

Well, perfumery info has a way of traveling around, so even though you

weren't named in the post I received, glad you came forth with all your

info ;-)

Anya

http://artisannaturalperfumers.com The Artisan Natural Perfumers Guild

http://.com The premier site on Natural Perfume

/

Biggest, most dynamic natural perfumery chat group

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At 12:00 AM 7/4/2006, you wrote:

>Hi guys,

> I would like to experience first hand with this fixative.

> So, does anyone know where to get this Glucam P-20 and how much does it

> cost?

> Happy holidays to all and be safe,

Hi BO

If you want a natural alternative for a middle/top note fixative that

primarily works well with the heady florals like jasmine, ylang ylang, etc.

you might want to try tinctured orange peel wax. Recommended by Arctander,

buried in his book, I found it, got some, used it, it works well.

Anya

http://artisannaturalperfumers.com The Artisan Natural Perfumers Guild

http://.com The premier site on Natural Perfume

/

Biggest, most dynamic natural perfumery chat group

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Anya <mccoy@...> wrote: At 12:00 AM 7/4/2006, you wrote:

>Hi guys,

> I would like to experience first hand with this fixative.

> So, does anyone know where to get this Glucam P-20 and how much does it

> cost?

> Happy holidays to all and be safe,

Hi BO

If you want a natural alternative for a middle/top note fixative that

primarily works well with the heady florals like jasmine, ylang ylang, etc.

you might want to try tinctured orange peel wax. Recommended by Arctander,

buried in his book, I found it, got some, used it, it works well.

Anya

Sounds very nice Anya! When you say orange peel " wax " what exactly do you

mean?

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At 01:05 PM 7/4/2006, you wrote:

>If you want a natural alternative for a middle/top note fixative that

>primarily works well with the heady florals like jasmine, ylang ylang, etc.

>you might want to try tinctured orange peel wax. Recommended by Arctander,

>buried in his book, I found it, got some, used it, it works well.

>

>Anya

> Sounds very nice Anya! When you say orange peel " wax " what exactly do

> you mean?

>

Here's some more info, .

http://www.wellnaturally.com/ingredients/orangewax.html

http://www.kosterkeunen.com/Capability.asp?CapabilityID=394 & Cat1ID=94 & Cat2ID=116

I got mine from Talisman in Canada. It is thick, dark,full of bits of

" stuff " , lovely and fun to work with! LOL. I tinctured it, stirring

occasionally, and I pour off the clear top liquid to use.

Never having seen the citrus rind expression process, I *think* that after

the pressing, the clear EOs that we know and love are skimmed off the top,

and this is the waxy gunk left!

There is just one line in Arctander about it, and it popped out at me for

the floral-fixative properties.

Anya

http://artisannaturalperfumers.com The Artisan Natural Perfumers Guild

http://.com The premier site on Natural Perfume

/

Biggest, most dynamic natural perfumery chat group

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Anya <mccoy@...> wrote: At 01:05 PM 7/4/2006, you wrote:

>If you want a natural alternative for a middle/top note fixative that

>primarily works well with the heady florals like jasmine, ylang ylang, etc.

>you might want to try tinctured orange peel wax. Recommended by Arctander,

>buried in his book, I found it, got some, used it, it works well.

>

>Anya

> Sounds very nice Anya! When you say orange peel " wax " what exactly do

> you mean?

>

Here's some more info, .

http://www.wellnaturally.com/ingredients/orangewax.html

http://www.kosterkeunen.com/Capability.asp?CapabilityID=394 & Cat1ID=94 & Cat2ID=116

I got mine from Talisman in Canada. It is thick, dark,full of bits of

" stuff " , lovely and fun to work with! LOL. I tinctured it, stirring

occasionally, and I pour off the clear top liquid to use.

Never having seen the citrus rind expression process, I *think* that after

the pressing, the clear EOs that we know and love are skimmed off the top,

and this is the waxy gunk left!

There is just one line in Arctander about it, and it popped out at me for

the floral-fixative properties.

Anya

As far as I know the citrus expression process only produces essential oil and

some juice, but maybe there is some wax produced as well.

How can I find Talisman in Canada?

Thank you so much for sharing this, and by the way I am really enjoying this

group, and it's heartening to see that there is so much concern for purity and

ethics.

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http://www.kosterkeunen.com/Capability.asp?CapabilityID=394 & Cat1ID=94 & Cat2ID=116

I once got a sample of this wax. I not very impressed with it. But then

I was going to use it in cold process soap not a perfume.

What Kosterkeunen sent we was very, very thick dark gold/orange the

scent was not IMO a glorious orange.

What did the orange wax from Talisman in Canada look and smell like?

--

Be Well,

Bobbi Guerra

www.thepurplesage.com

sales@...

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At 09:30 PM 7/4/2006, you wrote:

>http://www.kosterkeunen.com/Capability.asp?CapabilityID=394 & Cat1ID=94 & Cat2ID=11\

6

>I once got a sample of this wax. I not very impressed with it. But then

>I was going to use it in cold process soap not a perfume.

>What Kosterkeunen sent we was very, very thick dark gold/orange the

>scent was not IMO a glorious orange.

>

>What did the orange wax from Talisman in Canada look and smell like?

You got the real deal. Orange peel wax is very thick, dark, lots of bits of

stuff in it (looks like the white pith) and is not a glorious orange. I

adore it for its deep properties, and feel it adds another subtle dimension

to the aroma palette. Think seared orange peel like found in really good

Chinese Orange peel beef v. orange juice ;-)

>

Anya

http://artisannaturalperfumers.com The Artisan Natural Perfumers Guild

http://.com The premier site on Natural Perfume

/

Biggest, most dynamic natural perfumery chat group

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At 03:39 PM 7/4/2006, you wrote:

>Anya <mccoy@...> wrote: At 01:05 PM 7/4/2006, you wrote:

>

> >If you want a natural alternative for a middle/top note fixative that

> >primarily works well with the heady florals like jasmine, ylang ylang, etc.

> >you might want to try tinctured orange peel wax. Recommended by Arctander,

> >buried in his book, I found it, got some, used it, it works well.

> >

> >Anya

> > Sounds very nice Anya! When you say orange peel " wax " what exactly do

> > you mean?

> >

>

>Here's some more info, .

>http://www.wellnaturally.com/ingredients/orangewax.html

>http://www.kosterkeunen.com/Capability.asp?CapabilityID=394 & Cat1ID=94 & Cat2ID=11\

6

>

>Anya

> As far as I know the citrus expression process only produces essential

> oil and some juice, but maybe there is some wax produced as well.

> How can I find Talisman in Canada?

> Thank you so much for sharing this, and by the way I am really enjoying

> this group, and it's heartening to see that there is so much concern for

> purity and ethics.

>

Hi .

Citrus peels contain a very high percentage of wax, as do all citrus

fruits. I think it's called the cuticular layer, and it protects the fruit,

and the it's when the cells are ruptured, as in expressing the EO from the

rind that the wax is harvested as part of the process.

of Talisman is a group member, but I also gave wellnaturally as a

source in the links above. Here's 's site:

http://www.goatmilkskincare.com She may not have anymore, since it was a

co-op buy. If she doesn't, write me privately, and I'll send you some.

Thanks for the nice compliment to the group -- we do try!

Anya

http://artisannaturalperfumers.com The Artisan Natural Perfumers Guild

http://.com The premier site on Natural Perfume

/

Biggest, most dynamic natural perfumery chat group

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At 11:13 PM 7/4/2006, you wrote:

>(snipped to correct topposting and excessive quotes)

>

>I know what a tincture is, but how do you do it as a verb, novice me.

>Bev

You mean tincturing? The process of plunking some aromatic into alcohol and

letting it stew for a while? ;-) When possible, keep good notes as to

percentages. I'll admit, when I was tincturing the stinky goat hair, I

didn't take time to measure it, I just transferred some to a jar and poured

alcohol over it to cover, plus some .

Anya

http://artisannaturalperfumers.com The Artisan Natural Perfumers Guild

http://.com The premier site on Natural Perfume

/

Biggest, most dynamic natural perfumery chat group

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Thanks Anaya for the info about the fixative propties

of Orange peel wax. A random mention in the book would

have gone unnoticed. Have you tried this for top notes

too or does it mainly work with middle notes?

By the way I am still looking for some tips for a

natural which would aid in giving great diffusive

power to the perfume. Natural perfumes generally lack

here and I wish there was some way to get around it.

Thanks.

Prabha

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At 10:49 AM 7/6/2006, you wrote:

>Thanks Anaya for the info about the fixative propties

>of Orange peel wax. A random mention in the book would

>have gone unnoticed. Have you tried this for top notes

>too or does it mainly work with middle notes?

>

>By the way I am still looking for some tips for a

>natural which would aid in giving great diffusive

>power to the perfume. Natural perfumes generally lack

>here and I wish there was some way to get around it.

>

>Thanks.

>Prabha

Hi Prabha

It seems to work best on the middle floral notes I mentioned earlier. Top

notes do what they do, as in music -- would you want the high C to go on

forever? Just joking, but I hope you see my point.

My take on that is that by using strong odor intensity aromatics in a

spray, I get great diffusiveness. I don't want choking diffusiveness as is

found in most synth perfumes, as that does not fulfill my aesthetic desires

in a perfume. I prefer to keep the perfume with in 3-5' of my body.

Anya

http://artisannaturalperfumers.com The Artisan Natural Perfumers Guild

http://.com The premier site on Natural Perfume

/

Biggest, most dynamic natural perfumery chat group

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> >

> > >If you want a natural alternative for a middle/top note

fixative that

> > >primarily works well with the heady florals like jasmine, ylang

ylang, etc.

> > >you might want to try tinctured orange peel wax. Recommended by

Arctander,

> > >buried in his book, I found it, got some, used it, it works

well.

> > >

> > >Anya

> > > Sounds very nice Anya! When you say orange peel " wax " what

exactly do

> > > you mean?

> > >

> >

> >Here's some more info, .

> >http://www.wellnaturally.com/ingredients/orangewax.html

> >http://www.kosterkeunen.com/Capability.asp?

CapabilityID=394 & Cat1ID=94 & Cat2ID=116

> >

> >Anya

> > As far as I know the citrus expression process only produces

essential

> > oil and some juice, but maybe there is some wax produced as well.

> > How can I find Talisman in Canada?

> > Thank you so much for sharing this, and by the way I am really

enjoying

> > this group, and it's heartening to see that there is so much

concern for

> > purity and ethics.

> >

>

> Hi .

> Citrus peels contain a very high percentage of wax, as do all

citrus

> fruits. I think it's called the cuticular layer, and it protects

the fruit,

> and the it's when the cells are ruptured, as in expressing the EO

from the

> rind that the wax is harvested as part of the process.

>

> of Talisman is a group member, but I also gave wellnaturally

as a

> source in the links above. Here's 's site:

> http://www.goatmilkskincare.com She may not have anymore, since it

was a

> co-op buy. If she doesn't, write me privately, and I'll send you

some.

>

> Thanks for the nice compliment to the group -- we do try!

>

>

> Anya

>

Thanks Anya - I did miss this message somehow, so apologies for

hassling you again! And thanks for offering to send me some orange

peel wax - I have now ordered some from Well Naturally. They have a

very interesting selection of oils, including Alia absolute from

China, which I have not seen before.

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