Re: In BIG trouble - furniture rampant with mold, not allowed to remove it. HELP

[Guest guest]

Thank you Jules, , Carondeen and all others who responded... I

don't have energy to reply to each posting.

Jules and - I also had to get rid of my personal IDs, credit

cards, untold number of papers and a lot of clothes. This mold has

been the single most hazardous substance that has caused the greatest

havoc in my life. Instead of asking themselves if there just MIGHT be

something on those objects that really causes me to suffer, my cousins

and 'friends' keep talking I need to change my attitude and just

decide to live a normal life! Attitude! Normal life? Good God,

merciful Jesus Christ, what a pile of crap!

I can't live in a tent. I live in a building which is surrounded by

other buildings. Very little space between them, only some parks for

children to play I would look like a bum there. And it's very cold

outside. Nevertheless, at the moment the situation is bearable, but

far from good.

As said, spores from contaminated objects usually travel by night

and contaminate the air that comes in their way (the movie " The Fog "

by Carpenter comes to mind), and sometimes it's extremely hard

to cope with them in the morning when the stomach is most sensitive.

As for my folks, I think the only way to persuade them that mold is

dangerous is to drag them to some doctor who will explain them that fact.

I still haven't tried to decontaminate the table. The contamination is

still contained only on that object. I am still waiting for some tips

on how to do that. Please, if anyone has any idea, don't hesitate to

suggest something that has worked for you in the past.

Someone mentioned Vulpex soap. What is it regarding its chemical

composition and how can I obtain it outside the US? Can it be used to

suck out spores and mycotoxins from the table?

[Guest guest]

The only thing that has worked for me is the vulpex soap, that I

have posted many times, and long term ozone, in non living space.

Just the other day my mother was complaining yet again about my bad

attitude- that if I just believed in the power of positive thinking

my life would be so much better- well maybe- but it sure is not

going to make mold go away.

> Thank you Jules, , Carondeen and all others who responded... I

> don't have energy to reply to each posting.

>

> Jules and - I also had to get rid of my personal IDs, credit

> cards, untold number of papers and a lot of clothes. This mold has

> been the single most hazardous substance that has caused the

greatest

> havoc in my life. Instead of asking themselves if there just MIGHT

be

> something on those objects that really causes me to suffer, my

cousins

> and 'friends' keep talking I need to change my attitude and just

> decide to live a normal life! Attitude! Normal life? Good God,

> merciful Jesus Christ, what a pile of crap!

>

>

> I can't live in a tent. I live in a building which is surrounded by

> other buildings. Very little space between them, only some parks

for

> children to play I would look like a bum there. And it's very cold

> outside. Nevertheless, at the moment the situation is bearable, but

> far from good.

>

> As said, spores from contaminated objects usually travel by

night

> and contaminate the air that comes in their way (the movie " The

Fog "

> by Carpenter comes to mind), and sometimes it's extremely

hard

> to cope with them in the morning when the stomach is most

sensitive.

>

>

> As for my folks, I think the only way to persuade them that mold is

> dangerous is to drag them to some doctor who will explain them

that fact.

>

>

> I still haven't tried to decontaminate the table. The

contamination is

> still contained only on that object. I am still waiting for some

tips

> on how to do that. Please, if anyone has any idea, don't hesitate

to

> suggest something that has worked for you in the past.

>

>

> Someone mentioned Vulpex soap. What is it regarding its chemical

> composition and how can I obtain it outside the US? Can it be used

to

> suck out spores and mycotoxins from the table?

>

[Guest guest]

Vulpex Liquid Soap

Vulpex liquid soap is Potassium Methyl Cyclohexyl Oleate.

It has a pH of 10.5 to 11.5 and a Flash Point of 123oF. It is unique

in that it will dissolve in both water and organic solvents, such as

Stoddard Solvent or Trichloroethane. Its solutions show extremely

high performance in cleaning a wide range of surfaces including both

textiles and carpeting. The cleaning action continues while the soap

is on the surface. The use of scrub brushes with medium soft

bristles assists cleaning where greasy dirt is thickly accumulated

or age hardened. Vulpex is non-foaming and can easily be rinsed away

with water or solvent as appropriate.

Where surfaces are porous or covered with fine cracks, Vulpex

solutions will clean deeply and thoroughly.

Vulpex in water works best in very warm water, but it remains

effective even in cold water. Solutions in cold water will gel if

sufficiently concentrated. If the water is really cold, Vulpex forms

a gel sufficiently strong to be worked into vertical surfaces with a

brush where it will stand and not run off. Heavily soiled Vulpex

solutions remain quite active and should not be discarded simply

because of their soiled or dirty appearance.

In water, solutions containing 10 to 25% of Vulpex liquid soap are

most commonly used. On most surfaces, 5 minutes is ample time for

the soap to act. Hard, smooth or shiny surfaces need to be wiped

with a terry towel after rinsing to avoid a streaky finish.

Vulpex must not be diluted by blending with other soaps or synthetic

detergents! Vulpex is a complex blend formulated for optimum

performance.

Vulpex concentrate should be stored at room temperature. In freezing

temperatures, heavier elements in the liquid concentrate tend to

separate. If this occurs, be sure to shake or mix thoroughly before

dilution as these heavy elements are essential for the optimum

performance of Vulpex.

There are no specific hazards in handling either the concentrate or

the diluted Vulpex solutions. Since Vulpex is a most efficient

degreaser, we suggest that you use protective gloves. Odors or fumes

from the water solutions of Vulpex, hot or cold, are not known to be

harmful, but adequate ventilation should be provided. While Vulpex

concentrate has a Flash Point of 123oF, the diluted solutions in

water are not considered to be a fire hazard. The solutions of

Vulpex in flammable organic solvents must be accorded the same

cautions as for the solvent itself.

Catalog No. T8008-016 pint $39.90

Catalog No. T8008-032 quart $75.00

Catalog No. T8008-128 gallon $255.00

---------------------------------------------------------------------

-----------

Conservator's Emporium

A Division of MuseuM Services Corporation

385 Bridgepoint Drive

South St. , MN 55075

651/450-8954 · FAX 651/554-9217

More on soaps:

Surfactants are divided into soaps and detergents. Soap is prone to

forming

an insoluble scum under certain conditions and is therefore not

preferred as

a cleaning agent. Detergents, on the other hand, are used regularly

along

with water, and it's suitability for the removal of greasy

contaminants are

widely recognized.

Both soaps and detergents are made up of long hydrocarbon chains. If

the

hydrocarbon chain exceeds 12 carbons, the surfactant is called a

detergent.

These hydrocarbon chains feature a hydrophilic end (water loving)

and a

hydrophobic end which will tend to bond with the greasy portions.

Detergents

may be anionic (negative charge), cationic (positive charge) and non-

ionic.

Anionic and non-ionic detergents represent the categories most

frequently

used in conservation. Both Triton X-100 and Synperonic are non-ionic

There are other places to buy vulpex- you can google, but it is

expensive, and because it worked for me does not mean it will work

for you

Good luck,

> >

> > Someone mentioned Vulpex soap. What is it regarding its chemical

> > composition and how can I obtain it outside the US? Can it be

used

> to

> > suck out spores and mycotoxins from the table?

> >

>