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Re: Hello of Cranemoon!

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Greetings n

(I was trying to source Benzyle Salicylate and Ionone among other Isolates

and the supplier puts it this way: *found in nature, but not natural

in itself*.)

Sounds like a round about way to say Isolate. Or add some confusion, perhaps

inquiry of the supplier for clarification would help.

(Is there actually a retail source where these natural

isolates can be purchased *natural* in small quantities? )

So far that has been a tricky one without getting priced up with a smaller

quantity, some will sell smaller amounts but really boost the price for having

to package smaller, these are mainly wholesale companies who deal in volume.

Then again how small is small? I personally have not seen a retail source, but

have considered that option for somewhere in the future.

(Galaxolide is the synthetic newer cheaper version of Exaltone

(discovered in 1928) and Exaltolide which were processed from shellac

(yes the varnish material) which is a natural material from India

extracted from the cocoon of an insect. Does anyone sell Exaltolide at

the retail level?)

I had reecieved a sample a while back from one of the big companies of their

Exaltolide, which is said to impart a warm radiance to a composition, while also

helping to fix the scent, it also comes across as a sweet Musk scent while

enhancing other musc notes. I have experimented with it some and feel a need to

know more about it before I would incorporate it into any marketable material.

And still would need more information on its source and processing.

(One last question if I may, have you ever given any

hints on Lanvin*s Arpège? )

Hummmmm.. Hint? Well I suppose I could throw that one out there, keeping in

mind that this formula does contain synthetics, however a large part of it can

be found in natural source materials. The Jasmin Flowers 100 is yet another

formula, however the key to that one could be it contains 10 % Jasmin Absolute,

hence the title.

Type Arpege (Lanvin 1927)

30 Linalool

50 Aldehyde C-10 10%

50 Aldehyde C-11 10%

25 Aldehyde C-12 MNA 10%

65 Phenol Ethyl Alcohol

30 Phenol Propyl Alcohol 10%

130 Rhodinol

25 Labdanum Absolute 50%

25 Orris Concrete 10%

40 Methyl Ionone

20 Sandalwood

50 Vetiveryl Acetate

75 Heliotropine

250 Hydroxycitronellal

25 Benzyl Salicylate

15 Aldehyde C-14 UnLac 10%

40 Musk Ketone

10 Ambrarome 50%

35 Jasmine Flowers 100

I hope you find this usefull or at least entertaining.

Be Well

~CraneMoon

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> (Galaxolide is the synthetic newer cheaper version of Exaltone

> (discovered in 1928) and Exaltolide which were processed from shellac

> (yes the varnish material) which is a natural material from India

> extracted from the cocoon of an insect. Does anyone sell Exaltolide at

> the retail level?)

>

> I had reecieved a sample a while back from one of the big

companies of their Exaltolide, which is said to impart a warm radiance

to a composition, while also helping to fix the scent, it also comes

across as a sweet Musk scent while enhancing other musc notes. I have

experimented with it some and feel a need to know more about it before

I would incorporate it into any marketable material. And still would

need more information on its source and processing.

Exaltolide also known as cyclopentadecanone was used in most perfume

creations between 1930 and 1950 according to SFP.

>

> (One last question if I may, have you ever given any

> hints on Lanvin*s Arpège? )

>

> Hummmmm.. Hint? Well I suppose I could throw that one out there,

keeping in mind that this formula does contain synthetics...

> Type Arpege (Lanvin 1927)...

>

>

Good day ,

Thank you for your time and generosity. Arpège is a great creation and

oddly I can still put my hand on all the ingredients. There is a lot

that could be said about Heliotropine with its sweet, spicy and floral

aroma which is derived from sassafras. Heliotropine is strangely and

luckily not synthetic although the technology exists, the economics

are not favorable as via the sassafras route. Moreover, the synthetic

is regarded as blander. I like sassafras, I used to drink it infused

as a tea in the Appalachian Mountains and it*s used by the locals to

make root beer, but its use is banned by the FDA. Something about if

you drank a few hundred liters of root beer in one hour you could get

cancer. The chemical companies though have the right to use sassafras

to produce Heliotropine which is mainly used as an insecticide for

mosquitoes. Attempts were made to try and use it as a replacement for

vanilla. Then Heliotropine finds its way into the well known Guinot

sun care products where " it encourages a natural, deep and even suntan

with a beautiful golden color that stays that way for longer.

Heliotropine reduces the skins' sensitivity, it strengthens the skins'

natural defenses and looks after its' beauty even with fragile or

sensitive skin. Guinot sun care products are quickly absorbed by the

skin " . Sometimes I question how reliable the FDA*s findings are. Soon

we*ll only be allowed big mac and ultra pasteurised milk and that*s

it. The main ingredient in sassafras is safrol which was used in the

early good chypres creations (Modern Technology of Perfumes,Niir

Board). Ambrarome in Arpège is probably a form of styrax. I was ready

to bet that Arpège had styrax in it. It*s not a question though,

because I am not going that route. I will stay with the natural

ingredients. It*s quite entertaining as you guessed.

I will naturally keep blending my way! So long!

n

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> (Galaxolide is the synthetic newer cheaper version of Exaltone

> (discovered in 1928) and Exaltolide which were processed from

> shellac

> (yes the varnish material) which is a natural material from India

> extracted from the cocoon of an insect. Does anyone sell

> Exaltolide at the retail level?)

>

> I had reecieved a sample a while back from one of the big

> companies of their Exaltolide, which is said to impart a warm

> radiance to a composition, while also helping to fix the scent,it

> also comes across as a sweet Musk scent while enhancing other

> musc notes. I have experimented with it some and feel a need to

> know more about it before I would incorporate it into any

> marketable material. And still would need more information on its

> source and processing.

>

I see that TheGoodScents Company list omega-pentadecalactone (also call

lactone) as " Sweet Powdery Musk Woody " and naturally occurring

in Root oil. I wonder if their material is a natural isolate?

http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/data/rw1004211.html

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