Guest guest Posted February 16, 2004 Report Share Posted February 16, 2004 I'd rebatch it. You may lose some or most of your fragrance but I think it will be ok. Anne http://www.annelees.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted February 16, 2004 Report Share Posted February 16, 2004 How do I rebatch? How much water do i add? etc..... I have read so many differant ways I am beyond confused! Do I have to wait 3 days to do this or can i do it now? It has been about 20 hours and has not changed at all. Thanks... > I'd rebatch it. You may lose some or most of your fragrance but I think > it will be ok. > > Anne > http://www.annelees.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted February 17, 2004 Report Share Posted February 17, 2004 I do not know where you got those instructions but they are the absolute WORST I have ever read. First you DO NOT mix lye water ahead of time and let it set overnight and heat it up again, ever! It loses it's potency and that is what happened....there was no chemical change called saponization that took place because the lye was totally ineffective, and all you got was curdled oils that cooked! THROW IT OUT, it is not re-batchable at all. Use a 1 lb batch for a test batch, and then you will not waste a lot of money if a batch fails. Mix lye into cold water and cool to 120 degrees, melt oils and cool to 120 degrees and then slowly pour lye water into oils and use a stick blender to bring the batch to TRACE. Add any colors or EO or FO at trace and blend in very well before pouring into molds. Here is a fail safe 1 lb batch for you to use, made with QUALITY ingredients and not shortening which is quite inferior for soapmaking. 8 oz olive oil 3 oz coconut oil 4 oz palm oil 1 oz cocoa butter 2.2 oz of lye to 6 oz water if you need more help, email me. Sherry Sherry's Creations Natural Care E-books & CD's, booklets, spreadsheets www.herbalsoap-healingcreams.com/book.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted February 17, 2004 Report Share Posted February 17, 2004 Thanks for the recipe Sherry. I will definately try it. I tried another one last night and did the double boiler method and then finished it in the oven for about 30 - 45 minutes. Added lavender scent and purple color. Why did the purple turn pink? To hot when mixed in? Anyway. It is soap! YEAH! Suds and all! Only problem is that it is crumbly. Cooked too long and didn't get it in the mould fast enough I am guessing, by the time I added scent and color? Need to know how to rebatch to make it more moist. Here is the recipe.... How many pounds is this and how do I figure that out? 25 oz olive oil 5 oz coconut oil 10 oz water 4 oz lye 2 Tablespoons of Shea butter at the end As far as the other batch.... Common sense must of told me not to do the lye the night before cause that is the only part of the recipe i didn't follow. I did let it cool down to room temp and then reheat tho. (maybe 2-3 hours). I took the so called soap out of the moulds last night and let them sit on wax paper. They are stiffening up, but some look like swiss cheese with holes in it (air bubble?) I am not sure how to rebatch tho. Read somewhere to ad 1/2 cup milk for every pound and put in oven (like I did above). By the way that is so much easier! I will be throwing this recipe away and never using again if that is the problem! Is it a 5 lb recipe? > > > I do not know where you got those instructions but they are the > absolute WORST I have ever read. > > First you DO NOT mix lye water ahead of time and let it set overnight > and heat it up again, ever! It loses it's potency and that is what > happened....there was no chemical change called saponization that > took place because the lye was totally ineffective, and all you got > was curdled oils that cooked! > > THROW IT OUT, it is not re-batchable at all. > > Use a 1 lb batch for a test batch, and then you will not waste a lot > of money if a batch fails. > > Mix lye into cold water and cool to 120 degrees, melt oils and cool > to 120 degrees and then slowly pour lye water into oils and use a > stick blender to bring the batch to TRACE. > Add any colors or EO or FO at trace and blend in very well before > pouring into molds. > > Here is a fail safe 1 lb batch for you to use, made with QUALITY > ingredients and not shortening which is quite inferior for soapmaking. > > 8 oz olive oil > 3 oz coconut oil > 4 oz palm oil > 1 oz cocoa butter > > 2.2 oz of lye to 6 oz water > > if you need more help, email me. > Sherry > > Sherry's Creations > Natural Care E-books & CD's, booklets, spreadsheets > www.herbalsoap-healingcreams.com/book.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted February 18, 2004 Report Share Posted February 18, 2004 wrote: Only problem is that it is crumbly. Cooked too long and didn't get it in the > mould fast enough I am guessing, by the time I added scent and color? Need to know how to rebatch to make it more moist. there are 16 oz to a pound so there are 30 oz of oils in your recipe and divided by 16 is 1.87 lbs of soap--approximately. You can add a few more oz of water if your going to do Hot Processed soap method, to be sure it is not all crumbly....but you also cooked it way to long to get the crumbly result. It should not take more than one hour to become translucent, which is the stage at which the saponization is complete and at this stage you add superfatting, colors, FO or EO and mix in well. Your batch at this stage should be moist enough to add these ingredients and not all dried out. ------------ your recipe > 25 oz olive oil > 5 oz coconut oil > 10 oz water > 4 oz lye > 2 Tablespoons of Shea butter at the end Since your SUPERFATTING at the end of cook or trace, your lye and water amounts should be at 0 superfat.... so you will need 4.30 oz of lye and 11.47 oz of water. ------------------- you wrote: Read somewhere to ad > 1/2 cup milk for every pound and put in oven (like I did above). By the way that is so much easier! This is for RE-batching soap. You can use water more effectively than milk, but milk is OK, just more prone to rancidity later down the line and less shelf life of the soap. Re-batching is another lengthy process to try to FIX a soap batch or to add delicate herbs, FO, EO or additives. You might want to purchase a soap book, mine or someone elses, for indebth info on all aspects of soaping. hth Sherry Sherry's Creations Natural Care E-books & CD's, booklets, spreadsheets www.herbalsoap-healingcreams.com/book.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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