soap

[Guest guest]

>Also what about melting the fats in the microwave? Ive never heard of

anyone

>talk about this but that seems alot easier to me. To just have the

lye/water

>in one plastic bowl...the fat in another plastic bowl and then zap the fat

>for 20 sec at a time untill it is all melted and then just combine. Is this

>possible?

>

>

>

>Carli

Carli,

I mix my lye and water in a plastic pitcher, melt my oils in a glass bowl in

the microwave and then pour the oils and lye/water into a 2 gal plastic

pitcher. The pitchers help tremendously when it comes to pouring because of

the spouts. Especially when you use PVC or downspouts for molds.

The pitchers, thermometers, spoons and anything that comes in contact with

the lye I keep dedicated for soaping only. The glass bowl that I melt my

oils in I use for my everyday cooking also.

Tina

[Guest guest]

Hi,

I'm resending this massage since I did'nt receive any response. So fogive

me for my redundance. My first batch turned out so well that I want to try

my luck again, this time a gentle moisturizing type of soap for babys. . I

know I'd be able to come up with my own formula if I knew what oils were

good, gentle and moisturising for babys. Could someone give any

suggestions? Or maybe direct me to a site where I might read about different

oil properties?

These are the oils I have on hand:

Pumice olive oil

palm oil

Crisco (vegetable shortening)

castor oil

almond oil

jojoba

Shea butter

I don't have coconut oil though. Do I need it for a good lather? All help

would be appreciated.

Annie

[Guest guest]

Annie~

A nice baby soap would contain a majority of olive oil or a mix of olive

with goat milk and lavender as the essential oil for a very light

fragrance. I always add a touch of coconut oil and castor to my mostly

olive oil soaps.

JMHO,

On Tue, 01 Feb 2000 19:25:51 -0800 Annie Daghelian <milalina@...>

writes:

> From: Annie Daghelian <milalina@...>

>

>

>My first batch turned out so well that I want

> to try

> my luck again, this time a gentle moisturizing type of soap for

> babys. . I

> know I'd be able to come up with my own formula if I knew what oils

> were

> good, gentle and moisturising for babys. Could someone give any

> suggestions?

[Guest guest]

In a message dated 04/28/2000 5:11:12 PM Eastern Daylight Time,

lezb@... writes:

<< Hi everyone, I came across this site, which contained some very

unflattering views on soap. Are they valid, and if they are, what does one

do to make sure the ph factor is about 5.5? I would value any feedback,

particularly as I am living in the same city , and planning to launch my

product later this year. Check it out!! Thanks, Lez. >>

This website is whack. Not to mention it hasn't been updated since July of

1999. The information given is vague and misleading.

Yes, the skin likes to maintain an acid mantle, but this person advocates the

use of gels and creams, which if one were to read the label may contain many

of the same ingredients that she claims soap does. Although, real soap does

not contain Sodium Lauryl Sulphate. Now some of the Evil Commercial soaps

may, but the soaps that are handmade naturally and correctly should have a pH

of around 7 - 7.5.

Unfortunately this site just offers more misinformation than real information!

SunFeather

www.sunsoap.com

[Guest guest]

I think it is a very good description of ECS!!! And can be used to your

advantage. Since handmade soap does not contain a lot of the additives that are

mentioned, you can play upon that with your customers and let them know all of

the " evils " of commercial soap and extol the value of handmade soap. The

lotions and creams I don't go for because the majority of the ones on the market

contain SLS and I think the main reason is that people are looking for loads of

bubbles. Another selling point could be the explanation that it is not the

amount or volume of bubbles that clean the skin.

karen

Grandma Bedelia's Soaps and Sundries

http://msnhomepages.talkcity.com:6010/LibraryLawn/abkacademy/

[Guest guest]

I think it is a very good description of ECS!!! And can be used to your

advantage. Since handmade soap does not contain a lot of the additives that are

mentioned, you can play upon that with your customers and let them know all of

the " evils " of commercial soap and extol the value of handmade soap. The

lotions and creams I don't go for because the majority of the ones on the market

contain SLS and I think the main reason is that people are looking for loads of

bubbles. Another selling point could be the explanation that it is not the

amount or volume of bubbles that clean the skin.

karen

Grandma Bedelia's Soaps and Sundries

http://msnhomepages.talkcity.com:6010/LibraryLawn/abkacademy/

[Guest guest]

Soap kills bacteria by damaging the fatty external

cell wall, which eventually kills it. Other

substances also kill bacteria, in varying degrees of

effectiveness. One of the most effective substances

is bleach, but it is not good for skin, obviously

(good for hard surfaces like toilets). The actual

mechanical washing and scrubbing removes and/or kills

much bacteria all by itself. This site gives lots of

information, some of it suspect, with few if any

resources (and this one is one of many, many suspect

sites on the Internet). Don't believe everything you

read. Some soaps and e.o.'s are harsher on skin than

others, and then there are individual differences in

sensitivity. My degree is in Biology with one course

in Microbiology, and I was taught this at the Univ. of

Texas at Austin. I know things have changed in 20

years, but I believe that soap is still a very cost

effective cleanser for most people. There are

probably hundreds of other formulations that can clean

skin, my daughter uses shaving cream for zits

occasionally; it has SLS in it and other things that

are effective for her (at least she thinks so), and I

think the ingredients are fairly harmless for a 14

year old. I have been told that many non-soap

expensive cleansers are full of alcohol formulations

(my aunt-in-law was warned by her plastic surgeon not

to use a common, moderately expensive facial

cleanser). Alcohol is an excellent bactericide, but

bad (drying) for your skin. Good though on a

localized basis, if you are about to get an I.V., or

injection. Some anti-bacterial hand soaps are very

harsh on my hands, others probably use them daily with

no ill effects. And climate can affect the

aftereffects of various cleansers too. A person

living in Houston (very humid) may find that they have

to use different cleansers and skin products if they

go to west Texas or Colorado. So it depends. I'm

sure there are others with more experience in this

field that will contribute their expertise. Warmly,

Bev

--- Lez Barker <lezb@...> wrote:

> Hi everyone, I came across this site, which

> contained some very unflattering views on soap. Are

> they valid,

__________________________________________________

[Guest guest]

Angie, this happened to me when I tried to make a very small amount of

soap. I think that most of he water evaporate through the heat. I never

tried such a small amount again and it never happened to me.

I add the cucumber puree to the water/lye mix just before I add it to the oils.

Maybe this helps a little bit -

Franziska

At 19:18 09.01.01 -0500, lt54@... wrote:

>Hi,

>Here is a question for you more experienced cp soapmakers.......What does it

>mean when you add your lye to water, mix and during cooldown " crystals " form.

>I went ahead and used it anyway and the soap is very brittle and just

>doesn't look right.

>Also, this was a cucumber soap recipe that called for a reduced water amount

>to mix with the lye initally and then after combining oils/lye mix

>(saponification begins) to add the pureed mix of cucumber to make up the

>water difference.

________________________________________

JUST A PERFECT DAY - THE SOAP FACTORY

Handmade soap and fine toiletries

http://www.perfectday.ch

***********************************************************

[Guest guest]

Angie said

> Also, this was a cucumber soap recipe that called for a reduced water

amount

> to mix with the lye initally and then after combining oils/lye mix

> (saponification begins) to add the pureed mix of cucumber to make up the

> water difference.

Hi Angie

I can't help you on why the crystals formed on your soap or why it was

brittle unless perhaps it was lye heavy but I have made cucumber soap

without a drama before and ended up with a lovely bar of soap (I didn't

fragrance or colour it - and when it is used even now months afterwards the

smell of the cucumber comes through).

Anyway my oils used were approximately 75% olive, 20% coconut and 5% castor

with a 5% superfat. I halved the water and used the pureed cucumber (skin

and all) to make up the difference. I mixed the lye and added it to the

oils and then I immediately added the pureed cucumber and then began using

my stick blender to bring it to trace. It took a good day and a half before

I was able to unmold it and then it took about 8 weeks to cure into a really

hard bar and this, I believe, is because the cucumber has less water content

to evaporate out during the curing process. I am contemplating reducing the

water in my next batch by about 20% in order to get a harder bar sooner.

HTH

Regards

WB

[Guest guest]

I am not sure what you are referring to but the research I have found tells

you what percentage of an oil should be used per batch. 100% olive oil is

the real castile soap. Coconut oils should be no more than 20-30% of your

base oils. That kind of thing. If this is of interest to you let me know.

Sherry

Soap

> I am getting ready to make my first batch of soap and I'm trying to

> understand all the different aspects of the soaping process. I have

> created a recipe and run it thru a lye calculator, so that is no

> problem. I was reading somewhere else though that in order to get a

> really " good " soap that you should have a value of 160 in some catagory.

> It think it was call INS? If I have the name wrong, please forgive me,

> but I would like to know what this stands for and how is it used? Are

> there charts somewhere to check in order to create a really great soap?

>

> Any help you can give me in understanding this would be appreciated,

>

> Deb

>

>

>

>

>

[Guest guest]

> test to see if the mix is lukewarm then

How does one test lukewarmness?

slowly add the lukewarm tallow,stirring continually.

> beat with an egg wisk for 1 min.continue beating

Doesn't the mixture have to 'trace'?

Read it on other recipes.

> put on to kitchen paper and live for 2 weeks

What do you mean by kitchen paper? Butchers paper, paper towel, wax paper?

Sounds like a good recipe (no weighing) just need some clarifications.

How many bars does this make?

Karrie

[Guest guest]

just put a finger in the pot and test

--- " karrieof5 <kar51775@...> " <kar51775@...>

wrote:

---------------------------------

> test to see if the mix is lukewarm then

How does one test lukewarmness?

slowly add the lukewarm tallow,stirring continually.

> beat with an egg wisk for 1 min.continue beating

Doesn't the mixture have to 'trace'?

Read it on other recipes.

> put on to kitchen paper and live for 2 weeks

What do you mean by kitchen paper? Butchers paper,

paper towel, wax paper?

Sounds like a good recipe (no weighing) just need

some clarifications.

How many bars does this make?

Karrie

[Guest guest]

Food coloring could dye the skin and the bath tub and/or grout. Try using

D & C colors especially formulated for bath and body products.

Hugs,

in VA

www.honeybearcreek.com <http://www.honeybearcreek.com>

On 10/25/05, laura_mills60 <laura_mills60@...> wrote:

>

> i am about to do the melt and pour soap. is using food coloring a good

> thing or not? or is something else better?

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> Vibrant Health! Daily tips for the body, mind and soul.

> From Glenbrook Farms Herbs and Such

> http://www.glenbrookfarm.com/herbs/vhform.html

> Flat Rate Shipping! Just $4.90 per order this week! See Site for details

> Don't miss the weekly specials!

> http://glenbrookfarm.com/store/specialsseeds_1.html

>

>

>

>

[Guest guest]

if you are lightly coloring, food coloring liquid or paste, is fine, if you

want more vibrant colors, then get some D & C, or there are some cool MP soap

color blocks( I love these color bloacks!)

[Guest guest]

you can use food coloring but it would probably dye a persons skin It's better

to get the colors from a craft store or a site www.amandassoapsandsweets.net

laura_mills60 <laura_mills60@...> wrote:i am about to do the melt and pour

soap. is using food coloring a good

thing or not? or is something else better?

Vibrant Health! Daily tips for the body, mind and soul.

From Glenbrook Farms Herbs and Such

http://www.glenbrookfarm.com/herbs/vhform.html

Flat Rate Shipping! Just $4.90 per order this week! See Site for details

Don't miss the weekly specials!

http://glenbrookfarm.com/store/specialsseeds_1.html

[Guest guest]

paste food color works better than liquid, but its still is made from the

same type of dye just in a base of other things like Propylene Glycol, Sorbitol,

Glycerine Vegetable Gum, and other things, so they are a PITA, as you have to

LIST all these things on your label! it is best to use dyes made for cosmetics

and soaps.

[Guest guest]

Hey,

Your bud in NC. Someone had mentioned food cake colors. Does this do like the

regular food coloring?

<honeybearcreek@...> wrote:

Food coloring could dye the skin and the bath tub and/or grout. Try using

D & C colors especially formulated for bath and body products.

Hugs,

in VA

www.honeybearcreek.com <http://www.honeybearcreek.com>

On 10/25/05, laura_mills60 <laura_mills60@...> wrote:

>

> i am about to do the melt and pour soap. is using food coloring a good

> thing or not? or is something else better?

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> Vibrant Health! Daily tips for the body, mind and soul.

> From Glenbrook Farms Herbs and Such

> http://www.glenbrookfarm.com/herbs/vhform.html

> Flat Rate Shipping! Just $4.90 per order this week! See Site for details

> Don't miss the weekly specials!

> http://glenbrookfarm.com/store/specialsseeds_1.html

>

>

>

>

[Guest guest]

I've never used the cake frosting colors, but heard of others using it. Not

sure if it would stain the same way. I'd think so, but never tried these

myself. I do remember making bath salts five years ago using food coloring

and having a blue tinted tub for a day or two till I could scrub the heck

out of it. Don't remember if I had a blue tinted child! LOL

Also heard of people using powdered Kool-Aid. Another no-no. Teens dye

their hair with Kool-Aid just for this reason - IT STAINS HAIR! I don't

think it washes out too easily, especially on blond hair.

[Guest guest]

I would be interested in this information as well.

~Marlese~

bobe: beyond ordinary bath essentials

www.bobebathessentials.com

>

> If there are any companies on the list that offer handmade private

> label soaps could you please contact me with your website link. I am

> interested in adding soaps to my bath and body product line.

>

> Thanks

> Shaniece

>

[Guest guest]

>

> If there are any companies on the list that offer handmade private

> label soaps could you please contact me with your website link. I am

> interested in adding soaps to my bath and body product line.

>

> Thanks

> Shaniece

>

Akron Grove Bath Products

http://www.akrongrove.com

Contact us.

Norbert Rug

[Guest guest]

I really like the products I've used from Natural Choices. The website

is www.oxyboost.com.

They have laundry products and dishwasher detergent as well. I've also

been pleased with BioKleen products.

Judy

[Guest guest]

Good afternoon! I have been lurking a bit, but this is a question I would like

to chime in on! )

It is not the heat, really, but the chemical reaction that is taking place, that

seems to wreak havoc on essential oils and other natural additives. When I am

making soap and have certain ingredients whose properties I would like to

preserve as much as possible, I " hot process " the soap... heat is applied to the

batch, so that the chemical reaction takes place in an hour or two, instead of

days (as with " cold process). After the cook, I let the soap cool a bit, and

then add my precious ingredients, so that they will be unaffected by the

saponification process. I hope this makes sense!

Sue

SOAP!! www.littlemamaproducts.com

MUSIC!! www.cowboyminer.com/harris2.html

[Guest guest]

Good afternoon! I have been lurking a bit, but this is a question I would

like to chime in on! )

>

> It is not the heat, really, but the chemical reaction that is taking

place, that seems to wreak havoc on essential oils and other natural

additives. When I am making soap and have certain ingredients whose

properties I would like to preserve as much as possible, I " hot process " the

soap... heat is applied to the batch, so that the chemical reaction takes

place in an hour or two, instead of days (as with " cold process). After the

cook, I let the soap cool a bit, and then add my precious ingredients, so

that they will be unaffected by the saponification process. I hope this

makes sense!

>

> Sue

Sue is deadon right on this. I do the same thing and love the way the soaps

turn out. Let the HP soaps dry a bit. Sue, I wish we could convince all

the soapers of this method for their eo's and herbs. You don't have to

" hurry " and put the soap in the mold, there is plenty of time to stir in

your precious eo's or herbs or other additives. I just made a fresh

cucumber soap with coconut milk that is beautiful light green and smells

wonderful. Your " good " eo's are not wasted if you use HP for soap making.

Jane

adobesoapworks

[Guest guest]

> Sue is deadon right on this. I do the same thing and love the way the soaps

> turn out. Let the HP soaps dry a bit. Sue, I wish we could convince all

> the soapers of this method for their eo's and herbs. You don't have to

> " hurry " and put the soap in the mold, there is plenty of time to stir in

> your precious eo's or herbs or other additives. I just made a fresh

> cucumber soap with coconut milk that is beautiful light green and smells

> wonderful. Your " good " eo's are not wasted if you use HP for soap making.

>

> Jane

> adobesoapworks

I agree with the hot process as well. I actually incorporate the

infused oils, essential oils and teas or lately I have used Hydrosols

largely for the water phase with immense success. I find that if you

can bombard every element of the soap with scent, and hot process it,

much more survives the chemical process, and you wind up with a

delicious, complex aroma.

Example: Let's make a Lavender castille. Infuse your olive oil 6

weeks ahead of time with plenty of dried Lavender, I like to use

patchouli also to give the infusion a bit of depth, Mix your lye with

Lavender Hydrosol that was frozen or refrigerated, the cooler, the

better as the heat will destroy the scent. Now Do your hot process

and add your ESO last. I have made many batches this way and you

can't beat infused oil soap with a hydrosol water phase. I've made

perfumes and body souffle's to compliment the scented soaps and the

healing properties of the ingredients survive too. What more could

you want?

[Guest guest]

<It is not the heat, really, but the chemical reaction that is taking place,

that seems to wreak havoc on <essential oils and other natural additives.

When I am making soap and have certain ingredients whose <properties I would

like to preserve as much as possible, I " hot process " the soap... Sue

Yes it makes perfect sense. We do close to the same except we cold process

or hot depending on the need and then handmill (unless hot process was

used), heat, cool to below the flash point...then add then press. We've

been doing this for years with great success and have it down pretty well.

We too have found the chemical reaction to be problematic, and not so much

the heat.

RobinK