Re: LED Therapy

[Guest guest]

Hi Dick,

This information was from the colloidal silver list and authored by

Bradley. I have other information on LLLT and LED if you are interested. I

have to send this in two posts because it's too large.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

First, let me clarify that we have conducted no

formal studies ourselves. However, we have conducted several anecdotal-type

evaluations,,,,,,especially on horses. The laser pointers we have used are 5

MW in power. Our laboratory instruments are HeNe type, and are 10 mw and 25

mw

respectively. We have several LED arrays. Some are 13, some 25, and some 50

elements in size.

Do be advised, I AM NOT a pundit in matters relating to either

LEDT or LLLT. This being the case, do understand I have no position....or

verifiable proof.....that one methodology is superior to the other. People

seem to become somewhat polarized on the merits of one----or the other, as

being superior.

Useful studies are not very numerous, but I will list several

we found of pertinence, both for comparing the effectivity of LEDs versus

LLLTs..........and for the general information furnished:

1. Gupta, et al. Journal of Dermatological Treatment

(1997) This study relates to the use of non-coherent light (LEDs) for

addressing damage on superficial structures (e.g. skin, epithelial tissues and

very shallow muscle tissue insults). The results, using 660 nm incoherent

light, were very positive on slow-healing wounds.

2. Several studies, of which I do not have access here

at

home, have been conducted which seem to confirm that LLLT is markely superior

to LEDT for relieving chronic, deep-seated, pain through raising the ACTH and

endorphin levels-----where LEDT gives little.....or no response.

3. Some researchers have reported positive results using

a

combination of LLLT and LEDT. e.g. Laser Therapy, 1998, Vol. 10, No.3. For

pain and wound healing.

4. LLLT arrays have demonstrated their superiority in

addressing severe, non-healing ulcers, among diabetics. Journal of British

Podiatric Medicine, 1991, Oct.., 186-189.

5. Another study of possible consequence is: Jilliane

. Primary Care. Care Vol. 410. 1997; pages 18-20. Topic. Use of

Laser Therapy on Non-healing Wounds.

6. The most pronounced claim, to date, favoring LLLT over

LEDT seems to be that made by Tina Karu (1998: The Science of Low-Power Laser

Therapy), wherein she states, " the coherence of light is of no importance in

low-power laser clinical effects " and " the primary difference between lasers

and LEDs is that the laser " s coherent beam produces " speckles " of relatively

high power density which can cause local heating of inhomogeneous tissues " .

I have a couple more general comments, before I end this

extended epistle.

The general view among our more knowledgeable staff is that LED arrays are

very

effective for open wounds and large-area amorphous swellings (e.g. impact

trauma, near-surface hematomas). Additionally, LEDs give measureable relief

in

cases of tightened lean-muscle tissues. These conditions prevail for large

domestic mammals (e.g. horses and cows), as well as human volunteers.

Although

large LED arrays (>100 bulbs) will trigger IR detectors on the opposite side

of the human hand.....demonstrating considerable power of penetration----they

do not seem to yield the degree of pain- relief or the rapid, beneficial,

deep-tissue and nerve response modifications-----as do 10 mw, and greater,

LLLT

devices.

I hope these observations are of value to you.

Sincerely, .

Osbourne, Holmes wrote:

> Hi ,

>

> Thanks for another great homemade therapy device.

>

> Do you have handy references for the types of conditions and protocols with

> which this device has been demonstrated to be effective?

>

>

> >My attention has just been called to a transmission error in my earlier

> >post. The pointer arrangement should resemble the dots on the face of

> >dice----for the number five. My email program shifted the dots. My

> >apologies. Bradley.

> >

> >

> > To all interested list members.

> > Since I am, already, at my computer to comment on a

> >post by Holmes, I will take the occasion to relate an item which

> >may be of some interest.

> > The college-age son of one of our staff researchers came

> >up with an effective---if not cosmetically attractive---unit for use by

> >persons with limiited funds and/or technical expertise. He constructed

> >an effective Low Level Laser Therapy (LLLT) unit by combining five (5)

> >laser pointers in a very simple arrangement.

> > The pointers were purchased from the local Harbor

> >Freight outlet, for a cost of $6.50 ea., plus tax. The configuration is

> >as follows: (1) the physical arrangement provides for the " natural "

> >arrangement for five similar bodies in an idealized " space utilizing "

> >configuration. e.g. _ _

> > _

> > _ _

> > (2) the operating switches (momentary, normally-open)

> >require some form of constant-pressure to stay activated. This is

> >addressed by using several twists from a rubber band which contacts all

> >of the four outside switches, simultaneously.

> > (3) the center pointer's on/off switch must be taped down

> >prior to arrranging the four outer units. (4) arrange the four outer

> >units in such a manner as to have their ON/OFF switch on a line directly

> >toward the center of the assembly (this provides the maximum contact

> >with the restraining rubber band. (5) assemble the pointers in a

> >manner which causes the lower, sloping sections to be parallel to each

> >other. This furnishes the closest allowable focus of the beams. (6)

> >using tape, or preferably, a properly-sized rubber band, restrain them

> >in the desired configuration. (7) next, apply the rubber band you have

> >chosen to close the Power Switches of the four outside pointers. Some

> >of you more adept-types may chose to use the same rubber band to both

> >hold the assembly together----and to operate the power switches, of the

> >outside pointers. Since the four outside pointers will be in a

> >divergent configuration toward the top of the assembly, some may desire

> >to mechanically stabilize it. This may be done through using short

> >lengths of " popcicle sticks " , thin styrofoam inserts, etc., plus a weak

> >rubber band around the top of the assembly.

> > Although this explanation may be overly cumbersome, the

> >unit itself, is exceptionally simple to assemble.....and to use. The

> >power is low enough that the bulbs may be placed in direct contact with

> >the outer skin (at least this has been our experience), We have

> >employed this unit for continuous periods up to 15 minutes in a single

> >location, without any, detectable, adverse reactions beyond slight skin

> >reddening.

> > We have found this low-power unit to be quite effective for

> >applications within its power range. The chief advantage of the LLLT

> >over the LED units is that of penetrating power of the coherent light

> >beam. We have found no advantage for LLLT in conditions involving

> >superficial (outer cutaneous) insults----- among the experimental

> >populations.

> > Sincerely, Bradley..

> > P.S. Please do remember NEVER POINT ANY LASER DIRECTLY INTO ANYONE'S

> >EYE/EYES To do so can cause PERMANENT/IRREPARABLE damage to the centra

> >fovea.....plus other retinal damage.

> >

> >

[Guest guest]

From the colloidal silver list - Bradley

My attention has just been called to a transmission error in my earlier

> > post. The pointer arrangement should resemble the dots on the face of

> > dice----for the number five. My email program shifted the dots.

My

> > apologies. Bradley

These instructions will be posted in two, separate

parts. This is part one.

Before I begin I would like to identify a couple of

possible part numbers for the 1 ohm resistor. A useful one may be found

at Mouser Electronics. In their current catalogue it is 283-1.0. This

is a small size metal oxide power resistor, rated at 3 watts continuous

(about .6 " in body-length).. If you prefer a wirewound resistor, I

suggest the silicone coated one. The number for it is 71-RS2B-1.0 The

body of this resistor is slightly over .5 " in length. They each cost

about $.40....quite reasonable.

Because of the added difficulty in explaining, and for

the builder to properly execute....the paper template, I am going to

describe the construction of a 13 element, not a 15 element unit.

Additionally, because of the difficulty for unskilled persons to

maintain proper tolerances when drilling styrofoam, I have opted for

using wood....it is more forgiving.

1. Using a short length of ! " X 4 " softwood (fir or white pine)

planking, mark and cut off a 3.5 " length. This gives a small 3-5/8 " X

3-1/2 " rectangle. (The reason for this shape is that the wood is cut in

3-5/8 " width at the sawmill).. Set aside for later use.

2. Using either plain paper, or 1/4 " quadrille pad, construct the

following template:

using a ruler--and or a drafting triangle--construct a 3.5 "

X 3.5 " square.

a. Starting at the upper left-hand corner of the 3.5 "

square, construct a second square, starting EXACTLY .5 " inside the

original square (the 3.5 " one). This results in a 2.5 " square inside a

3.5 " square..

b. Next, beginning at the upper left-hand corner of the

2.5 " square, mark off the entire perimeter in 5/8 " intervals.

c. Next, connect each of the top-to-bottom points with

a straight line, and then connect the horizontal interval points with

separate, straight lines. This yields a grid of 16 equal squares.

d. This is your drill-pattern template.

3. Carefully cut out this template along the outside lines of the

3.5 " square.

4. Next carefully align the template against the upper left-hand

corner of the wooden block (align with the 3.5 " dimension in the

horizontal---left to right).

5. Tape in place with small squares of making tape, taking care not

to allow tape to overlay the paper template edges more than .25 " .

6. With the template securely in place, and using a sharp scribe or

drawing compass point, push through the paper EXACTLY at the corner

points of the inside (2.5 " ) square.

7. Next, punch through each point INSIDE and along the OUTSIDE

edges where any two lines connect or intersect.

8. What you now have are 25 small dots arranged in a square grid.

Using a ball-point pen, press and ink each dot.

9. These marks make up your drilling pattern.

10. Next using a 23/64 drill bit in a drill press or hand drill,

center each dot--in turn--and drill each hole all the way through.

11. Now you have completed the LED assembly mounting base. It

should look like the schematic below.

O_ O O_ O O_

O O_ O O_ O

TOP O_ O O_ O

O_ BOTTOM

O O_ O O_

O

O_ O O_ O

O_ -

The marked holes (ones with the _ next to them)

represent the ones which will be filled with an LED unit.

12. Next, select an LED and cut each wire lead down to approximately

3/8 " in length. Now carefully insert the LED into

one of the LED connector bases.

13. Next, using a AA size battery, with short leads ( 4 " to 6 " long)

attached to each end (soldered on is best, but strongly taped with bare

ends making good contact.....is acceptable)-----touch the soldering lugs

extending from the bottom of the LED mounting connector with the leads

from the AA battery. If the LED does not light up, switch the leads

from the battery and the LED should light up. When the LED is burning

the connections are correct. (Remember, these are DIODES and will

conduct in only one direction.)

14. Note which solder lug the positive (+) battery lead is touching

and mark (using a permanent marker) vertical a line down the side of the

LED mounting base closest to this solder lug.

15. Repeat this procedure for each LED you intend to use.

16, Remember, when you connect the LEDs to their power supply, they

will ONLY burn if connected correctly.....in parallel arrangement;

that is, each one is to be connected across the power-supply (not in

sequence to each other, which would be a series connection).

17. Next, for a 13 element assembly select a 26 " section of 30 gage

hook-up wie and cut into 13 sections of 2 " lengths.

18. Next. select a DIFFERENT colored 26 " section of hook-up wire

and cut it into 13 sections of 2 " lengths. One group will be your

Negative (-) and one group will be the Positive (+) leads for the LEDs

to be connected to the trunk lines.

19. Next, trim approximately 3/8 " of insulation off of each

end...of each 2 " lead wire.

20. Next, keeping the colored wires common to their polarities

(positive color to the MARKED side of the LED connector base and

negative color to the other side) connect the 2 " leads so each LED has

one (-) and one (+) attached to its connector base.

You are now ready to start the final assembly procedure.

I must close now, it is almost 1:30 in the

morning......long past my bed-time.

This is the end of part #1 of the assembly instructions.

Sincerely, Bradley.

[Guest guest]

Hi Dick,

This is the final installment. Is this the information you were looking for?

From the colloidal silver list - Bradley

When I checked my posting of last night, I

discovered that the email program had wrapped the diagram around. I

will try to explain how the schematic should look. If you align all of

the Os in a square pattern, you will see that the simple alignment

requires that the LEDs be staggered; that is, that no two LEDs are

directly next to each other. I apologize for the botched

transmission.

Part two Hello list members.....time for more

of

my incoherent ramblings.

21. Next, select one LED unit and insert it into the wooden base

assembly; starting from the upper left-hand corner is convenient.

Repeat for each LED unit (arranged in staggered pattern) until all units

are in place.

NOTE: Be sure to align the LEDs in a manner that places the

negative leads of two rows closest to each other; then the postive leads

closest to each other in the next two rows.....keeping this relationship

for all connections where two series of LEDs face each other......across

the entire assembly. Note the following schematic.

Top Trunk ----------------------------------

- *+ O +*- O - +*

Trunk # 1 ----------------------------------

O + * - O + *- O

Trunk # 2 ----------------------------------

+*- O + *- O + *-

Trunk # 3 ----------------------------------

O + *- O + *- O

Trunk # 4 -----------------------------------

+*- O + *- O + *-

Bottom -----------------------------------

Trunk

Trunk #1 will have the positive (+) leads from the two

closest rows connected to it; Trunk # 2 will have the negative (-)

leads from the two closest rows connected to it: Trunk # 3 will have

the positive (+) leads from the two closest rows connected to it: Trunk

# 4 will have the negative leads from the two closest rows connected to

it; The Top Trunk will have the negative (-) leads from the top row

connected to it; The Bottom Trunk will have the positive (+) leads

connected to it. Do remember that the trunks are nothing more than 6 "

lengths of 30 gage hook-up wire.

22. Now is a good time to fabricate the Trunk lines. Select an 18 "

section of hook-up wire with the Positive-side (+) color and cut it into

three 6 " sections. Repeat, using the Negative-side (-) colored wire.

23. Next, starting at either end of a Negative-side colored Trunk

wire, strip approximately 3/8 " of insulation from the tip; measure

approximately 3/4 " from the middle of the stripped end and remove a 3/8 "

section of insulation; measure another 3/4 " from the center of this

stripped section and remove another 3/8 " section of insulation. You

trunk line should look something like this:

---=====---=====---========================= This is your Top

Trunk line.

24. Next, select a Positive-side (+) section of Trunk line and repeat

the above procedure. This is your Trunk # 1 line. Repeat this

procedure using Negative color for Trunk # 2, Positive for Trunk # 3,

Negative for Trunk # 4, and Positive color wire for the Bottom Trunk

line.

25. Next, connect up the Positive leads from the first two rows (Trunk

#1) in a manner that gives easy access to one of the three bare-wire

sections of the trunk. DO NOT SOLDER YET.

26. Next, connect up the Negative leads from the second and third row

(Trunk # 2) in similar fashion as you did Trunk # 1. Repeat for Trunk #

3, using Positive leads; Trunk # 4 using Negative leads; and Bottom

Trunk, using Positive leads.

27. After all of the LEDs are connected to the Trunk Line system,

connect all of the Positive Trunk lines together to form a common

conductor. Do the same thing for the Negative Trunk lines.

NOTE: Use your own judgement as to which lines must be

shortened, and which (if any) are left untrimmed......in order to

fabricate a manageable harness assembly.

28. Before proceeding further, test your light assembly using your AA

battery fabricated earlier for polarity determination of your LEDs.

This is accomplished simply by touching the leads from the AA battery

assembly to the positive and negative leads from your LED assembly. I

nothing lights up, reverse the leads. If some units are not burning,

check to be sure they are not connected improperly. If they are, the

easiest thing to do is to pull out the LED bulb and turn is around and

plug it back in. Unless you have a bad connection, it will burn

properly.

29. As soon as you have all the lights burning properly, it is time to

solder EVERY connection. Do this next, and as soon as you have

finished.....test the assembly again----for proper operation. If

everything is working properly, carefully flatten the wire assembly down

on the back of the wooden base assembly, being CAREFUL to keep the

inside Trunk lines in their proper places. DO NOT short anything out by

sloppy alignment.

30. Next, select your little slide switch (#275-409A) and connect a

short (4 " ) section of hook-up wire to one side, and a similar wire to

the other side. Now place the slide switch on one side of the wooden

assembly base (your choice) and temporarily tape in position..

31. At this point you have an option of either using a " homemade " , but

very simple arrangement of two AA batteries, connected in series or to

modify the 4-space AA battery holder from Radio Shack (#270-391A).

32. I recommend modifying the battery holder, as this makes battery

replacement much easier, plus the fact that four batteries lengthen the

time between replacements. The modification is quite simple, but

somewhat tricky to explain clearly---without clear schematics. I do not

have a scanner at home, and do not have time to work on this at my

office. Therefore, I must try to make do and answer questions

privately, from those who have difficulty.

33. Select the AA battery holder and place it in front of you with the

red and black leads on top and the open side of the holder facing you.

Notice that there is a small wire running along the bottom/back of the

holder, that connects the outside batteries. We are going to leave the

two outside batteries connected in series, but break the connection

between the 2nd and third batteries. Additionally, we are going to

leave the inside batteries connected in series, and to connect both

assemblies in parallel (+ to + and Neg. to Neg.). This actually yields

a Series X Parallel power supply connection.

34. Assume the following numbering scheme. From left to right...facing

the open side of the holder....#1--#2---#3---#4. Using a small pair of

diagonal cutters (pliers), cut the wire coming off the wire-spring base

at the top of battery #1. Cut as close to the end (going in to slot #

2) of the wire, as possible. Using needle-point pliers, pull the end of

the wire through the slot on top of the battery holder. Next, solder a

3 " or 4 " length of hook-up wire to the end of this wire. This becomes

the negative lead for batteries #1 and #4.

35. Next, carefully solder another length of hook-up wire to the hole

in the top of holder slot #2. This becomes the positive lead for

batteries #2 and #3.

36, Next connect both Positive leads together and both Negative leads

together. Notice the markings on the batteries----and on the back of

the battery holder to insure proper installation. Be sure to leave

enough length to reach anywhere along the perimeter of the wooden base

assembly. You can, always, shorten wires.

37. You now have a four battery, 3 volt DC power source.

38. Next, fabricate a piece of thin plastic sheeting that is the same

size as the wooden LED assembly base and glue the AA battery holder to

this plastic sheet. After the glue sets, using electrical tape, fix

the AA battery holder to the bottom side of the wooden LED assembly

base. Be sure to leave a bare space along the side of the assembly

where you are going to attach the slide switch.

39. Next, place the 1 ohm resistor along the bottom edge of the AA

battery holder and form the red lead from the top of battery slot #4

down along the side of the holder and cut to the proper length to

connect with either lead coming out of the 1 ohm resistor. Trim the

wires to the necessary length and twist them together and solder. Next,

solder a 4 " length of hook-up wire to the OTHER end of the 1 ohm

resistor. This becomes the Positive power lead for the LED assembly.

40. Next, shorten the lead coming away from the slide switch to the

proper length to connect with the Positive power lead assembly (all of

the Positive Trunk Lines twisted together) coming from the LED assembly.

41. Be sure to shorten one---or both--- wires as required to make a

reasonably symmetrical arrangement. Common judgement is the key here.

42. When things are acceptably lined up, permanently attach the slide

switch to the side of the wooden LED base assembly, using a suitable

adhesive (a spot of epoxy works well)..

43. You can epoxy the 1 ohm resistor to the bottom of the battery

holder, after everything is properly aligned.

Hopefully, everything is in place and the unit

works. Good Luck, for those of you who are game to try it.

If you have problems and/or specific questions, just

email me OFFLINE.

Sincerely. Bradley.

p.s. Hopefully, my mail program will not wrap-around the schematic.

[Guest guest]

Dear , I couldn't help catching yr posting on the beck grp.I have to

ask if you are aware of the role that white flour, white rice , & pasta play

in adult diabetes & heart disease.If you're interested try try

Heller...''carbohydrate addicts'' or Dr Aitkens new diet revolution...the

message is essentially the same......I am personally acquainted with at

least 3 people who are off any adult diabetic medication after following the

simple recommendations of either book..I hope that you find this of

interest,I have found B.E.very helpful, but I don't know if it can do it

without a little help...regards Shane H. ... P.S dont forget good old

reliable cayenne /chilli or gingko for improving poor circulation

Re: LED Therapy

>Dotsie, thanks so much for all the info. I get sore, red spots on my

>toes, probably form lack of circulation. I'm developing adult onset

>diabetes. I have applied CS and DMSO, 50/50, to them, which was

>effective at first, but does not seem to be doing much good now. I'm

>trying H2O2 now, but remembered reading about LED therapy for sores

>that don't heal. The cheap 5 laser cluster sounds practical also. If

>I have good results I'll post them for others. Thanks again, Dick

>

>

>

>

>

[Guest guest]

Dotsie, thanks so much for all the info. I get sore, red spots on my

toes, probably form lack of circulation. I'm developing adult onset

diabetes. I have applied CS and DMSO, 50/50, to them, which was

effective at first, but does not seem to be doing much good now. I'm

trying H2O2 now, but remembered reading about LED therapy for sores

that don't heal. The cheap 5 laser cluster sounds practical also. If

I have good results I'll post them for others. Thanks again, Dick

[Guest guest]

P.S dont forget good old

> reliable cayenne /chilli or gingko for improving poor circulation

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

From the book Curing with Cayenne by Sam Biser featuring Dr.

Schulze: ~~Cayenne reduces the mucos in the venous system and thus

increases the circulation. One of the most important uses of cayenne

is as a circulatory stimulant, an herb that feeds the necessary

elements into the cell structure of the arteries, veins and

capillaries. It helps to reduce and normalize the blood flow.~~

Have you tried alternatating foot baths using H202 and cayenne?

Dotsie

[Guest guest]

Thanks, S Horvath, for the info. I do follow a low carb type program,

similar to Adkins. It has lowered my fasting blood sugar from 140 to

110-120 (sometimes in the high 90's), but has not stopped the sore,

red spots on the toes from appearing. So the damage to the

circulation system must have already been done. I do add cayenne to

almost everything I eat (it's addictive, you know. Delicious!). This

last episode of toe problem was alleviated by soaking in H2O2 and hot

water, 1 to 4. Cleared it up in 2 days. I'm thinking that I'll try

Niacin, as it opens up capillaries, and increases circulation to the

extremities. Thanks, everyone, and Merry Christmas. Dick

> Dear , I couldn't help catching yr posting on the beck

grp.I have to

> ask if you are aware of the role that white flour, white

rice , & pasta play

> in adult diabetes & heart disease.If you're interested try try

> Heller...''carbohydrate addicts'' or Dr Aitkens new diet

revolution...the

> message is essentially the same......I am personally acquainted

with at

> least 3 people who are off any adult diabetic medication after

following the

> simple recommendations of either book..I hope that you find this of

> interest,I have found B.E.very helpful, but I don't know if it can

do it

> without a little help...regards Shane H. ... P.S dont forget good

old

> reliable cayenne /chilli or gingko for improving poor circulation

> Re: LED Therapy

>

>

> >Dotsie, thanks so much for all the info. I get sore, red spots on

my

> >toes, probably form lack of circulation. I'm developing adult onset

> >diabetes. I have applied CS and DMSO, 50/50, to them, which was

> >effective at first, but does not seem to be doing much good now.

I'm

> >trying H2O2 now, but remembered reading about LED therapy for sores

> >that don't heal. The cheap 5 laser cluster sounds practical also.

If

> >I have good results I'll post them for others. Thanks again, Dick

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

[Guest guest]

Thanks, Dotsie. You always come through with something useful. The

alternating foot baths with cayenne and H2O2 sounds good. I do have

cayenne tincture and DMSO, that I mixed 50/50. I'll try applying that

next time. Maybe even add H2O2, and see if that works as well as the

foot baths. It is easier to apply a little tincture to the area than

making a pan of solution and sitting in it for 20 minutes, or so.

Worth a try. Dick

> Have you tried alternatating foot baths using H202 and cayenne?

> Dotsie