Auto godzilla current & electrode questions

[Guest guest]

I have a question regarding my homemade auto godzilla which I just

finished. I know it is a stupid question but I will ask it anyway.

Is the current the important factor and not the voltage? I usually

keep the current at .35-.40 milliamps. As the four nine volt

batteries wear down from 36 volts, is a point reached where the unit

is no longer effective? If my memory serves me, I=E/R. If it is

the current that matters then it would appear that as the voltage

(E) decreases, by adjusting the pot the current can be kept at a

beneficial rate (.3 milliamps). Am I right? I am trying to judge

when to replace the batteries.

BTW, when I first made my device, I could not get a good connection

on the stainless steel cotter pin electrodes. My soldered wires

just were not tight enough, even with shrink tubing. I solved the

problem by using alligator clips with plastic shields. I attached

my wires on the alligator clip screws, crimped the sleeves and moved

the shields in place. Now when I want to zill I simply slip my

cloth covered cotter pins into the alligator clips (making sure that

no metal is exposed which would touch the skin) and I am in

business. Are there any problems with this method that I am not

aware of?

Also, I recently ordered the three speed auto godzilla from V (

still waiting for it)since my family members would be more likely to

use a device that looks more professional. They consider me sort of

a mad scientist even though I have cured/stopped colds, flu, root

canal problems, blood infections and countless other maladies with

my Sota ZBB4 and Sota MPG4. Now I have added Godzilla and Auto

Godzilla to my arsenal. I am now ready for flu season or

bioterrorism attacks.

Thanks,

Mike

[Guest guest]

right, the current and time used are the determinants of effect.

The voltage adjusts downwards due to the total resistance (body plus

pot, plus limiting resistor).

You can use any voltage that gives you .2-.5mA or so, it will

usually involve about 4-6 volts under load. Most of the 36 volts is

eaten by the resistances. This does not drain the battery, BTW, it

just lets less current through (tames it) so the batteries will last

a long long time usually.

I hear you about stainless. Alan Kruest figured out some stainless

springs with crimping ends to handle this long ago, see our photos

if they are there, I think they should be.

bG

>

>

> I have a question regarding my homemade auto godzilla which I just

> finished. I know it is a stupid question but I will ask it

anyway.

> Is the current the important factor and not the voltage? I

usually

> keep the current at .35-.40 milliamps. As the four nine volt

> batteries wear down from 36 volts, is a point reached where the

unit

> is no longer effective? If my memory serves me, I=E/R. If it is

[Guest guest]

Well if you calculate the life of the battery. A 9 volt battery has 500 ma

hours in it so if you are using it at a rate of 1 ma it wolud last 500 hours. 4

batteries in searies still only has 500 ma hours

If you use it at a rate of .5 ma then it wolud last 1000 hours.

If you use it two hours a day that means the battery will last about 500 days.

With 4 batterias you have a lot of leaway in adjustnig the potentiometer upward

as the batteries get weaker.

So your batterise sholud last well over a year with the manual godzilla setup if

you are uning it a couple hours a day.

V

Auto godzilla current & electrode

questions

I have a question regarding my homemade auto godzilla which I just

finished. I know it is a stupid question but I will ask it anyway.

Is the current the important factor and not the voltage? I usually

keep the current at .35-.40 milliamps. As the four nine volt

batteries wear down from 36 volts, is a point reached where the unit

is no longer effective? If my memory serves me, I=E/R. If it is

the current that matters then it would appear that as the voltage

(E) decreases, by adjusting the pot the current can be kept at a

beneficial rate (.3 milliamps). Am I right? I am trying to judge

when to replace the batteries.

BTW, when I first made my device, I could not get a good connection

on the stainless steel cotter pin electrodes. My soldered wires

just were not tight enough, even with shrink tubing. I solved the

problem by using alligator clips with plastic shields. I attached

my wires on the alligator clip screws, crimped the sleeves and moved

the shields in place. Now when I want to zill I simply slip my

cloth covered cotter pins into the alligator clips (making sure that

no metal is exposed which would touch the skin) and I am in

business. Are there any problems with this method that I am not

aware of?

Also, I recently ordered the three speed auto godzilla from V (

still waiting for it)since my family members would be more likely to

use a device that looks more professional. They consider me sort of

a mad scientist even though I have cured/stopped colds, flu, root

canal problems, blood infections and countless other maladies with

my Sota ZBB4 and Sota MPG4. Now I have added Godzilla and Auto

Godzilla to my arsenal. I am now ready for flu season or

bioterrorism attacks.

Thanks,

Mike

The group's main page has a menu to the left, with photos of Godzilla devices

and info. This is a discussion, free speech forum, not medical advice. All

info is free to members. Membership is free, but by joing, you agree to hold

harmless the posters, including moderator, from damages from anything you find

here whether jointly, severally, or individually. We are interested in your

results, but cannot say anything about repeatability, or whether this might have

medical benefits. Thanks, for your understanding, good luck researching. --bG

[Guest guest]

It seems I reached a different conclusion(and this is just what I've

read) a battery contains a supply of extra electrons at one pole and

dearth of electrons at the other pole. As long as they stay that

way, the battery is " charged " . You have " electric potential " , in

other words, it CAN be used, but for now it is NOT being used. Such

electricity, stored, available, but not in use, is called: STATIC

ELECTRICITY.

Static electricity can go into action, and becomes ELECTRIC CURRENT,

or flow. The way it happens is this: If you somehow connect the

battery's terminals with a circuit like a wire (in our case the body

is a big resistor in the wire) the electrons leave at one pole of

the battery, travelling over the wire, into and out of the body, and

return over the wire to the other terminal of the battery.

As this goes on over time, the electrons, by seeking their own level

inside the battery, begin to equalize. Eventually, as more of the

extra ones are gone from one side of the battery, and they arrive to

fill the scarcity at the other side of the battery, they tend to

balance out so there are no more extras left in the battery, and no

more " scarcities " of electrons.

Each of the terminals now contains the right number of electrons for

it's natural state, and you have a balanced, or " dead " battery. The

Dictionary of Wit Wisdom and Satire writes: " Flashlight--a place to

store dead batteries " .

Amongst electricians and electronics technicians and engineers,

moving electrons are referred to simply as " current " , or " juice " .

An amp is a vast number of electrons. It's simpler to say " amp "

rather than " a vast number of electrons " . But in fact, it's really

just a big pile of electrons, way up there in the trillions.

So an amp is a quantity measure, like 100 bucks. The measure of

current usually involves how much quantity in a unit of time. For

example, you could make 100 bucks at minimum wage, or suddenly win a

bet for 100 bucks all at once. There's fast and slow accumulations

of both money and current.

If current accumulates fast, it's a " large " current, like 1 amp. If

it accumulates slowly, it's a " smaller " current like 1 milliamp

(1/1000th amp).

The reason large currents hurt you is the body cannot dispose of

them fast enough, so they make your skin chemically active, and it

breaks down. If you reduce the current so that less arrives at a

single second in time, the body can disperse that out, and your skin

stays intact longer. There may be an absolute level at which the

skin can always live with some current. Above that, and the skin

gets offended and breaks down, given enough time. Electrons in that

case cannot leave the skin fast enough to remain neutral. Is this

making some sense?

At the rate of 1 mA per hour, a 9v battery will take 500 hours to

drain down to no more electron imbalances, and current will be zero,

the battery will be dead.

If you connect 4 of these in series, and the total flow is .5mA, you

could imagine that the first one drains first, taking 1000 hours to

exhaust itself of its electrical imbalance and become " dead " . The

next one takes another 1000 hours, etc.

This does not really happen this way, all four drain at once, but

the result would be the same: 4000 hours draining down at .5mA

current would exhaust all 4. This assumes no other losses while the

device is idle, or " shelf life " factors in these batteries.

The above is a description of the process of electrical action using

godzilla. This describes the functional level of operation.

The force driving the electrons is called the " voltage " and it

varies with the resistance of the body plus the other resistances

built into the devices, and some amount of internal resistance

inside the batteries. But the voltages we use and the resistors we

use only exist to provide current. Current is the determining

factor, along with the time used. At 4-6 volts, your body's

resistance balances out so that current flows at around .2-.8mA.

That count of electrons is from 200 million - 800 million billion

electrons per seconds. Given that the numbers of microbes are far

less than that, it's no wonder this works--it would be astounding if

it did NOT work!!

bG

> Well if you calculate the life of the battery. A 9 volt battery

has 500 ma hours in it so if you are using it at a rate of 1 ma it

wolud last 500 hours. 4 batteries in searies still only has 500 ma

hours

>

[Guest guest]

Right you got it except the batterise in " series " do not increse the amp hours

only the voltage so even with 4 - 9 volt batterise in series you still only have

500 ma hours of current available. only the voltage increases. In order to get

more amps you have to hook them in parrallel.

The consider a battery dead when it loses only a certain percentage of its

voltage. so they consider the 9 volt battrey dead when its down to maybe 6 volts

or so. The 500 ma hour capacity is measuredi for it going down only that far.

http://www.techlib.com/reference/batteries.html

Re: Auto godzilla current & electrode

questions

It seems I reached a different conclusion(and this is just what I've

read) a battery contains a supply of extra electrons at one pole and

dearth of electrons at the other pole. As long as they stay that

way, the battery is " charged " . You have " electric potential " , in

other words, it CAN be used, but for now it is NOT being used. Such

electricity, stored, available, but not in use, is called: STATIC

ELECTRICITY.

Static electricity can go into action, and becomes ELECTRIC CURRENT,

or flow. The way it happens is this: If you somehow connect the

battery's terminals with a circuit like a wire (in our case the body

is a big resistor in the wire) the electrons leave at one pole of

the battery, travelling over the wire, into and out of the body, and

return over the wire to the other terminal of the battery.

As this goes on over time, the electrons, by seeking their own level

inside the battery, begin to equalize. Eventually, as more of the

extra ones are gone from one side of the battery, and they arrive to

fill the scarcity at the other side of the battery, they tend to

balance out so there are no more extras left in the battery, and no

more " scarcities " of electrons.

Each of the terminals now contains the right number of electrons for

it's natural state, and you have a balanced, or " dead " battery. The

Dictionary of Wit Wisdom and Satire writes: " Flashlight--a place to

store dead batteries " .

Amongst electricians and electronics technicians and engineers,

moving electrons are referred to simply as " current " , or " juice " .

An amp is a vast number of electrons. It's simpler to say " amp "

rather than " a vast number of electrons " . But in fact, it's really

just a big pile of electrons, way up there in the trillions.

So an amp is a quantity measure, like 100 bucks. The measure of

current usually involves how much quantity in a unit of time. For

example, you could make 100 bucks at minimum wage, or suddenly win a

bet for 100 bucks all at once. There's fast and slow accumulations

of both money and current.

If current accumulates fast, it's a " large " current, like 1 amp. If

it accumulates slowly, it's a " smaller " current like 1 milliamp

(1/1000th amp).

The reason large currents hurt you is the body cannot dispose of

them fast enough, so they make your skin chemically active, and it

breaks down. If you reduce the current so that less arrives at a

single second in time, the body can disperse that out, and your skin

stays intact longer. There may be an absolute level at which the

skin can always live with some current. Above that, and the skin

gets offended and breaks down, given enough time. Electrons in that

case cannot leave the skin fast enough to remain neutral. Is this

making some sense?

At the rate of 1 mA per hour, a 9v battery will take 500 hours to

drain down to no more electron imbalances, and current will be zero,

the battery will be dead.

If you connect 4 of these in series, and the total flow is .5mA, you

could imagine that the first one drains first, taking 1000 hours to

exhaust itself of its electrical imbalance and become " dead " . The

next one takes another 1000 hours, etc.

This does not really happen this way, all four drain at once, but

the result would be the same: 4000 hours draining down at .5mA

current would exhaust all 4. This assumes no other losses while the

device is idle, or " shelf life " factors in these batteries.

The above is a description of the process of electrical action using

godzilla. This describes the functional level of operation.

The force driving the electrons is called the " voltage " and it

varies with the resistance of the body plus the other resistances

built into the devices, and some amount of internal resistance

inside the batteries. But the voltages we use and the resistors we

use only exist to provide current. Current is the determining

factor, along with the time used. At 4-6 volts, your body's

resistance balances out so that current flows at around .2-.8mA.

That count of electrons is from 200 million - 800 million billion

electrons per seconds. Given that the numbers of microbes are far

less than that, it's no wonder this works--it would be astounding if

it did NOT work!!

bG

> Well if you calculate the life of the battery. A 9 volt battery

has 500 ma hours in it so if you are using it at a rate of 1 ma it

wolud last 500 hours. 4 batteries in searies still only has 500 ma

hours

>

The group's main page has a menu to the left, with photos of Godzilla devices

and info. This is a discussion, free speech forum, not medical advice. All

info is free to members. Membership is free, but by joing, you agree to hold

harmless the posters, including moderator, from damages from anything you find

here whether jointly, severally, or individually. We are interested in your

results, but cannot say anything about repeatability, or whether this might have

medical benefits. Thanks, for your understanding, good luck researching. --bG