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putting myself in the shoes of someone starting out..and possibly

dying out, and having nothing, no resources except a library

computer and a desire to do this..my path would look like this..and

this is from the simplicity vision, as well as the effectiveness

vision:

1. Build Lite Godzilla. It's just two electrodes, a 15k ohm

resistance (or 20k ohms, or one 5k and one 10k in series).

2. That just cost me $4. After using it on wrists, mouth, possibly

other problem areas, I'd be feeling better. I could then cut off

the wire, saving the resistor and electrodes, add a 500k

potentiometer, and 4 batteries, a small cheap switch, plunk it all

into a box, and have...Godzilla. with a minimum of fuss, and all

costing no more than an additional 20 bucks for the batteries and

small parts, and another 15 for the meter. about $40 total.

3. After using this heftier unit for a long time, I might, if I

wished to, build an auto-unit, re-using all my godzilla device, just

buying some more parts to make it switch by itself. But, it's

optional. The additional cost for that: about $20, tops.

$60 gets you a complete series of units, and the experience on a

small, step-by-step level to master the whole field of godzilla-

medicine.

We of the battery know how valuable this learning curve is. It's

complete freedom, and you can free others. The electronics are

simple..so simple.

I'm planning the release of a new godzilla device using a lantern

battery and a wire. It will serve as the first device for everyone,

no matter what they know or don't know.

No switches, no clips, no waiting, no ordering parts. Later, one

can build the Lite godzilla. Lite godzilla's are pocketable, and

transportable anywhere. You can build them when you get there,

too. Don't depend on others just to save time. Knowledge like this

is rare, and it's free. You can't go wrong. Once you have it, you

really have something!

bG

> For those of you who have been trying these machines for awhile

(already built and used a godzilla and a Beck-related model, maybe a

zapper, etc.)... If you were to begin your research again, which

schematic would you choose to build and try out first? Favorites so

far anyone?

>

> gracibeth

>

>

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Gosh, bG, thanks!!! This makes it easy for me to " just do it " as they say. I

know practically nothing about building anything electric and all the

numbers, and warnings and such on this list have been so intriguing, but

also has made me leery--thinking that !) I didn't know enough, 2) could harm

myself or others and 3) and totally unsure of where to start!! So, I can see

what I'll be doing this weekend. Thanks for giving us confidence. I truly

believe in self-care, and have the nutrition and herbal part all figured out

(yeah, right--lol) but just had no idea where to start with electricity.

There's so many devices mentioned on this list. This at least will give me a

starting place.

samala

" tossed down to live among angels, who have forgotten what they are, I

strive to remember " RLV 1998

-------Original Message-------

putting myself in the shoes of someone starting out..and possibly

dying out, and having nothing, no resources except a library

computer and a desire to do this..my path would look like this..and

this is from the simplicity vision, as well as the effectiveness

vision:

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In a message dated 7/30/2004 3:47:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time,

bobluhrs@... writes:

> The resistor thing is " close enough " but you should know that

> putting two 10k resistors in " parallel " if that is truly what you

> mean, gives you not 20k but 5k. Putting them one behind the other

> is called " series " . That will definitely give you your 20k safety

> limiter.

>

>

Bob,

My mistake in typing. I wired the resistors in series - not parallel as

stated in my note - for a 20k ohm final resistance, not 5K. I also used the

100K

pot as I couldn't find a 500K at the time. The 20K allows a lower (less

current) limit as opposed to the others (eg 5K or 15K). This lets me take the

current done as low as .15 mA on my machine and restricts my top end around 10

mA.

If you want to repost my note, please correct my mistake.

Also, the meter is often the largest cost item of Godzilla, but I have found

decent ones at Harbor Freight locally, often for less than $4 on sale. So my

meter cost me less than the 4 batteries.

Thanks for your work in putting all this information in one place on the net.

Regards,

Bill

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In a message dated 7/30/2004 3:47:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time,

bobluhrs@... writes:

> The resistor thing is " close enough " but you should know that

> putting two 10k resistors in " parallel " if that is truly what you

> mean, gives you not 20k but 5k. Putting them one behind the other

> is called " series " . That will definitely give you your 20k safety

> limiter.

>

>

Bob,

My mistake in typing. I wired the resistors in series - not parallel as

stated in my note - for a 20k ohm final resistance, not 5K. I also used the

100K

pot as I couldn't find a 500K at the time. The 20K allows a lower (less

current) limit as opposed to the others (eg 5K or 15K). This lets me take the

current done as low as .15 mA on my machine and restricts my top end around 10

mA.

If you want to repost my note, please correct my mistake.

Also, the meter is often the largest cost item of Godzilla, but I have found

decent ones at Harbor Freight locally, often for less than $4 on sale. So my

meter cost me less than the 4 batteries.

Thanks for your work in putting all this information in one place on the net.

Regards,

Bill

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zapper, etc.)... If you were to begin your research again, which

schematic would you choose to build and try out first?

i use ordinary tap water in two separate buckets. i run one

of the two wires from the battery to each bucket. i either

place one foot in each bucket or both feet in one and both

hands in the other. when i've used the meter in the circuit,

it has registered as high as 1.5 microamps on occasion, but

usually is only 1 microamp. if i place just the heals of

my feet in the water it is only 400 microamps. the use of

tap water seems to negate the need for current limiting

resister that is used with the higher current carrying water

with electrolytes added. you could carve up two plastic

jugs for milk or something as alternative to buying the

rectangle buckets i use. i have tried this on five other

people of various ages (12-82) and the meter seems always to

show 400 micros heals, or 1k full feet.

there is often no feeling or just slight tingles. if the tingle

get stronger to bother me, i switch to heals vs full feet.

just pick up the wires and switch which buchet they are in

to reverse polarity.

myself i rarely use it for more than 3 to five minutes at a

time so never worry about polarity. i use it daily in winter

as a preventive and once per week the rest of the year. if i

were getting sick, i'd up the frequency of use or duration.

its so much easier to just step into the water for a bit vs

having to strap on electrodes and all. my mouth idea that i

have not yet tried is to put feet in one bucket and suck water

through a straw into mouth to hold there, keeping a current

path down through straw into glass of water with other wire.

blessings to all on this list, gyro.

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> For those of you who have been trying these machines for awhile

(already built and used a godzilla and a Beck-related model, maybe a

zapper, etc.)... If you were to begin your research again, which

schematic would you choose to build and try out first? Favorites so

far anyone?

>

> gracibeth

I just finished building my Godzilla this last Monday evening. I

found the pictures and schematics on this site extremely useful and

easy to follow. Some of the parts were a bit difficult to find,

mostly the 15K ohm resistor and case. I eventually just wired two

10k ohm resistors in parallel for 20K. I preferred the original

Godzilla as opposed to the mini or lite versions as the

potentiometer and ammeter allowed me to pinpoint and control the

amount of current I was delivering to my body as opposed to just

guessing. This became more important to me when I tried it out and

found that even a low current of .3 mA caused irritation on my

wrists and ankles. So I just dial it down to my level of comfort.

Without the meter I believe it's difficult to get a true reading of

what you're doing as it's easy to get a broken or loose connection,

especially where the wires attach to the stainless steel electrodes.

As luck would have it, I got to test my Godzilla out today on a

different area. I was trimming the hedges and discovered the hard

way that it had now become home to a colony of Yellowjackets. I got

a nasty sting on my right forearm which turned red, swelled up, and

stung like the dickens. I pulled out my Godzilla and applied the

tips of the wet electrodes to either side of the injury. My

forearms must be less sensitive than my wrists or ankles as I was

able to apply .4 to .5 mA with no irritation. I held the electrodes

by the nonconductive ends (shrinkwrap tubing) for 15 minutes,

switching polarity every five minutes. The stinging went away

almost immediately.

It's now been three hours since the bee sting and the swelling has

gone and the pain has not returned. If you look real close, you can

see a small red discoloration on my skin. There is no discomfort

unless you rub the spot with moderate to heavy pressure.

I'm sold.

I'm quite happy with my new tool and will be trying it on other

ailments as they come up and let everyone know my results.

Regards,

Bill

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> For those of you who have been trying these machines for awhile

(already built and used a godzilla and a Beck-related model, maybe a

zapper, etc.)... If you were to begin your research again, which

schematic would you choose to build and try out first? Favorites so

far anyone?

>

> gracibeth

I just finished building my Godzilla this last Monday evening. I

found the pictures and schematics on this site extremely useful and

easy to follow. Some of the parts were a bit difficult to find,

mostly the 15K ohm resistor and case. I eventually just wired two

10k ohm resistors in parallel for 20K. I preferred the original

Godzilla as opposed to the mini or lite versions as the

potentiometer and ammeter allowed me to pinpoint and control the

amount of current I was delivering to my body as opposed to just

guessing. This became more important to me when I tried it out and

found that even a low current of .3 mA caused irritation on my

wrists and ankles. So I just dial it down to my level of comfort.

Without the meter I believe it's difficult to get a true reading of

what you're doing as it's easy to get a broken or loose connection,

especially where the wires attach to the stainless steel electrodes.

As luck would have it, I got to test my Godzilla out today on a

different area. I was trimming the hedges and discovered the hard

way that it had now become home to a colony of Yellowjackets. I got

a nasty sting on my right forearm which turned red, swelled up, and

stung like the dickens. I pulled out my Godzilla and applied the

tips of the wet electrodes to either side of the injury. My

forearms must be less sensitive than my wrists or ankles as I was

able to apply .4 to .5 mA with no irritation. I held the electrodes

by the nonconductive ends (shrinkwrap tubing) for 15 minutes,

switching polarity every five minutes. The stinging went away

almost immediately.

It's now been three hours since the bee sting and the swelling has

gone and the pain has not returned. If you look real close, you can

see a small red discoloration on my skin. There is no discomfort

unless you rub the spot with moderate to heavy pressure.

I'm sold.

I'm quite happy with my new tool and will be trying it on other

ailments as they come up and let everyone know my results.

Regards,

Bill

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Great, Bill, I dub thee an official Apprentice Ziller(one who is

learning how to actually cure something, as opposed to reverse-

medicine). The first ranks of zillerdom are stars above the highest

in drug-medicine, which is still bleeding us.

bG

> > For those of you who have been trying these machines for awhile

> (already built and used a godzilla and a Beck-related model, maybe

a

> zapper, etc.)... If you were to begin your research again, which

> schematic would you choose to build and try out first? Favorites

so

> far anyone?

> >

> > gracibeth

>

>

> I just finished building my Godzilla this last Monday evening. I

> found the pictures and schematics on this site extremely useful

and

> easy to follow. Some of the parts were a bit difficult to find,

> mostly the 15K ohm resistor and case. I eventually just wired two

> 10k ohm resistors in parallel for 20K. I preferred the original

> Godzilla as opposed to the mini or lite versions as the

> potentiometer and ammeter allowed me to pinpoint and control the

> amount of current I was delivering to my body as opposed to just

> guessing. This became more important to me when I tried it out

and

> found that even a low current of .3 mA caused irritation on my

> wrists and ankles. So I just dial it down to my level of comfort.

> Without the meter I believe it's difficult to get a true reading

of

> what you're doing as it's easy to get a broken or loose

connection,

> especially where the wires attach to the stainless steel

electrodes.

>

> As luck would have it, I got to test my Godzilla out today on a

> different area. I was trimming the hedges and discovered the hard

> way that it had now become home to a colony of Yellowjackets. I

got

> a nasty sting on my right forearm which turned red, swelled up,

and

> stung like the dickens. I pulled out my Godzilla and applied the

> tips of the wet electrodes to either side of the injury. My

> forearms must be less sensitive than my wrists or ankles as I was

> able to apply .4 to .5 mA with no irritation. I held the

electrodes

> by the nonconductive ends (shrinkwrap tubing) for 15 minutes,

> switching polarity every five minutes. The stinging went away

> almost immediately.

>

> It's now been three hours since the bee sting and the swelling has

> gone and the pain has not returned. If you look real close, you

can

> see a small red discoloration on my skin. There is no discomfort

> unless you rub the spot with moderate to heavy pressure.

>

> I'm sold.

>

> I'm quite happy with my new tool and will be trying it on other

> ailments as they come up and let everyone know my results.

>

> Regards,

> Bill

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Great, Bill, I dub thee an official Apprentice Ziller(one who is

learning how to actually cure something, as opposed to reverse-

medicine). The first ranks of zillerdom are stars above the highest

in drug-medicine, which is still bleeding us.

bG

> > For those of you who have been trying these machines for awhile

> (already built and used a godzilla and a Beck-related model, maybe

a

> zapper, etc.)... If you were to begin your research again, which

> schematic would you choose to build and try out first? Favorites

so

> far anyone?

> >

> > gracibeth

>

>

> I just finished building my Godzilla this last Monday evening. I

> found the pictures and schematics on this site extremely useful

and

> easy to follow. Some of the parts were a bit difficult to find,

> mostly the 15K ohm resistor and case. I eventually just wired two

> 10k ohm resistors in parallel for 20K. I preferred the original

> Godzilla as opposed to the mini or lite versions as the

> potentiometer and ammeter allowed me to pinpoint and control the

> amount of current I was delivering to my body as opposed to just

> guessing. This became more important to me when I tried it out

and

> found that even a low current of .3 mA caused irritation on my

> wrists and ankles. So I just dial it down to my level of comfort.

> Without the meter I believe it's difficult to get a true reading

of

> what you're doing as it's easy to get a broken or loose

connection,

> especially where the wires attach to the stainless steel

electrodes.

>

> As luck would have it, I got to test my Godzilla out today on a

> different area. I was trimming the hedges and discovered the hard

> way that it had now become home to a colony of Yellowjackets. I

got

> a nasty sting on my right forearm which turned red, swelled up,

and

> stung like the dickens. I pulled out my Godzilla and applied the

> tips of the wet electrodes to either side of the injury. My

> forearms must be less sensitive than my wrists or ankles as I was

> able to apply .4 to .5 mA with no irritation. I held the

electrodes

> by the nonconductive ends (shrinkwrap tubing) for 15 minutes,

> switching polarity every five minutes. The stinging went away

> almost immediately.

>

> It's now been three hours since the bee sting and the swelling has

> gone and the pain has not returned. If you look real close, you

can

> see a small red discoloration on my skin. There is no discomfort

> unless you rub the spot with moderate to heavy pressure.

>

> I'm sold.

>

> I'm quite happy with my new tool and will be trying it on other

> ailments as they come up and let everyone know my results.

>

> Regards,

> Bill

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Technically good observations at the end of the message, Bill, I

came to same conclusions, and put the meter into our design to

enhance Godzilla. It was a hard decision, as meters add another

thing to buy and more complexity. But, they are the best guarantee

that you will have a real tool. Godzilla has just what's needed.

Nothing more, nothing less. If it's screwed up, you can debug it.

That is crucially important, and I need a beginner's file just on

debugging the godzilla when it appears not to function

electrically. Often it's a dead battery in the METER that causes it

to go odd ball on you.

The resistor thing is " close enough " but you should know that

putting two 10k resistors in " parallel " if that is truly what you

mean, gives you not 20k but 5k. Putting them one behind the other

is called " series " . That will definitely give you your 20k safety

limiter.

The sting application across a small area like you did, can be

tolerated more than using the same over an artery. Local bites and

things can always be cranked way up and used only a few seconds to

get the same effects. Next bite ( hah) try it for only five minutes

using 1.5mA or so if you can stand it. That short a time should not

affect you. Be sure to move around the bite hitting it acrosswise

from different angles to process the venom effectively.

Good Job, BILL!!!! you have very nicely fullfilled the human thing

to do for yourself and for the rest of the world! I've posted the

results in our files. We are seen by folks all over this earth at

the moment. Take a nice bow for yourself and stay tuned.

Bob

--- In I eventually just wired two

> 10k ohm resistors in parallel for 20K. I preferred the original

> Godzilla as opposed to the mini or lite versions as the

> potentiometer and ammeter allowed me to pinpoint and control the

> amount of current I was delivering to my body as opposed to just

> guessing. This became more important to me when I tried it out

and

> found that even a low current of .3 mA caused irritation on my

> wrists and ankles. So I just dial it down to my level of comfort.

> Without the meter I believe it's difficult to get a true reading

of

> what you're doing as it's easy to get a broken or loose

connection,

> especially where the wires attach to the stainless steel

electrodes.

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Guest guest

Technically good observations at the end of the message, Bill, I

came to same conclusions, and put the meter into our design to

enhance Godzilla. It was a hard decision, as meters add another

thing to buy and more complexity. But, they are the best guarantee

that you will have a real tool. Godzilla has just what's needed.

Nothing more, nothing less. If it's screwed up, you can debug it.

That is crucially important, and I need a beginner's file just on

debugging the godzilla when it appears not to function

electrically. Often it's a dead battery in the METER that causes it

to go odd ball on you.

The resistor thing is " close enough " but you should know that

putting two 10k resistors in " parallel " if that is truly what you

mean, gives you not 20k but 5k. Putting them one behind the other

is called " series " . That will definitely give you your 20k safety

limiter.

The sting application across a small area like you did, can be

tolerated more than using the same over an artery. Local bites and

things can always be cranked way up and used only a few seconds to

get the same effects. Next bite ( hah) try it for only five minutes

using 1.5mA or so if you can stand it. That short a time should not

affect you. Be sure to move around the bite hitting it acrosswise

from different angles to process the venom effectively.

Good Job, BILL!!!! you have very nicely fullfilled the human thing

to do for yourself and for the rest of the world! I've posted the

results in our files. We are seen by folks all over this earth at

the moment. Take a nice bow for yourself and stay tuned.

Bob

--- In I eventually just wired two

> 10k ohm resistors in parallel for 20K. I preferred the original

> Godzilla as opposed to the mini or lite versions as the

> potentiometer and ammeter allowed me to pinpoint and control the

> amount of current I was delivering to my body as opposed to just

> guessing. This became more important to me when I tried it out

and

> found that even a low current of .3 mA caused irritation on my

> wrists and ankles. So I just dial it down to my level of comfort.

> Without the meter I believe it's difficult to get a true reading

of

> what you're doing as it's easy to get a broken or loose

connection,

> especially where the wires attach to the stainless steel

electrodes.

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Bill, If there is a " Dollar Store " near you, check for batteries. I buy all

of mine there, and have had good results. 9v, two for a dollar. AA, 4 for a

dollar. etc.

Dick

Re: Re: Favorites anyone?

> In a message dated 7/30/2004 3:47:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time,

> bobluhrs@... writes:

>

>

> > The resistor thing is " close enough " but you should know that

> > putting two 10k resistors in " parallel " if that is truly what you

> > mean, gives you not 20k but 5k. Putting them one behind the other

> > is called " series " . That will definitely give you your 20k safety

> > limiter.

> >

> >

>

> Bob,

>

> My mistake in typing. I wired the resistors in series - not parallel as

> stated in my note - for a 20k ohm final resistance, not 5K. I also used

the 100K

> pot as I couldn't find a 500K at the time. The 20K allows a lower (less

> current) limit as opposed to the others (eg 5K or 15K). This lets me take

the

> current done as low as .15 mA on my machine and restricts my top end

around 10 mA.

> If you want to repost my note, please correct my mistake.

>

> Also, the meter is often the largest cost item of Godzilla, but I have

found

> decent ones at Harbor Freight locally, often for less than $4 on sale. So

my

> meter cost me less than the 4 batteries.

>

> Thanks for your work in putting all this information in one place on the

net.

>

> Regards,

> Bill

>

>

>

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Guest guest

Bill, If there is a " Dollar Store " near you, check for batteries. I buy all

of mine there, and have had good results. 9v, two for a dollar. AA, 4 for a

dollar. etc.

Dick

Re: Re: Favorites anyone?

> In a message dated 7/30/2004 3:47:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time,

> bobluhrs@... writes:

>

>

> > The resistor thing is " close enough " but you should know that

> > putting two 10k resistors in " parallel " if that is truly what you

> > mean, gives you not 20k but 5k. Putting them one behind the other

> > is called " series " . That will definitely give you your 20k safety

> > limiter.

> >

> >

>

> Bob,

>

> My mistake in typing. I wired the resistors in series - not parallel as

> stated in my note - for a 20k ohm final resistance, not 5K. I also used

the 100K

> pot as I couldn't find a 500K at the time. The 20K allows a lower (less

> current) limit as opposed to the others (eg 5K or 15K). This lets me take

the

> current done as low as .15 mA on my machine and restricts my top end

around 10 mA.

> If you want to repost my note, please correct my mistake.

>

> Also, the meter is often the largest cost item of Godzilla, but I have

found

> decent ones at Harbor Freight locally, often for less than $4 on sale. So

my

> meter cost me less than the 4 batteries.

>

> Thanks for your work in putting all this information in one place on the

net.

>

> Regards,

> Bill

>

>

>

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In message <036701c4767d$be3265e0$6401a8c0@Dorothy>, Dick Rochon

<rrochon13@...> writes

>Bill, If there is a " Dollar Store " near you, check for batteries. I buy

>all

>of mine there, and have had good results. 9v, two for a dollar. AA, 4

>for a

>dollar. etc.

Make sure they're alkaline. The zinc carbon batteries have such a low

capacity next to alkaline that they don't work out cost effective. Here

in the UK the pound shops sell alkaline batteries that match Duracell

for capacity. (I know 'cos I did a test)

Also remember that cheap batteries are much more likely to leak caustic

electrolyte.

--

Clive

http://www.bigclive.com

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In message <036701c4767d$be3265e0$6401a8c0@Dorothy>, Dick Rochon

<rrochon13@...> writes

>Bill, If there is a " Dollar Store " near you, check for batteries. I buy

>all

>of mine there, and have had good results. 9v, two for a dollar. AA, 4

>for a

>dollar. etc.

Make sure they're alkaline. The zinc carbon batteries have such a low

capacity next to alkaline that they don't work out cost effective. Here

in the UK the pound shops sell alkaline batteries that match Duracell

for capacity. (I know 'cos I did a test)

Also remember that cheap batteries are much more likely to leak caustic

electrolyte.

--

Clive

http://www.bigclive.com

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Guest guest

Alkalines will last longer for sure. If it does not say " Alkaline "

somewhere on it, it's likely to die fast and not save you any money.

The NIMH's are xpensive, about $5 each, but once you have a charger,

that's the end of the expense. Do NOT get NICADS, they are very

inferior to NIMH, and only hold a slight charge before needing

recharging.

bG

> In message <036701c4767d$be3265e0$6401a8c0@Dorothy>, Dick Rochon

> <rrochon13@c...> writes

> >Bill, If there is a " Dollar Store " near you, check for batteries.

I buy

> >all

> >of mine there, and have had good results. 9v, two for a dollar.

AA, 4

> >for a

> >dollar. etc.

>

> Make sure they're alkaline. The zinc carbon batteries have such a

low

> capacity next to alkaline that they don't work out cost

effective. Here

> in the UK the pound shops sell alkaline batteries that match

Duracell

> for capacity. (I know 'cos I did a test)

>

> Also remember that cheap batteries are much more likely to leak

caustic

> electrolyte.

>

> --

> Clive

> http://www.bigclive.com

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Guest guest

Alkalines will last longer for sure. If it does not say " Alkaline "

somewhere on it, it's likely to die fast and not save you any money.

The NIMH's are xpensive, about $5 each, but once you have a charger,

that's the end of the expense. Do NOT get NICADS, they are very

inferior to NIMH, and only hold a slight charge before needing

recharging.

bG

> In message <036701c4767d$be3265e0$6401a8c0@Dorothy>, Dick Rochon

> <rrochon13@c...> writes

> >Bill, If there is a " Dollar Store " near you, check for batteries.

I buy

> >all

> >of mine there, and have had good results. 9v, two for a dollar.

AA, 4

> >for a

> >dollar. etc.

>

> Make sure they're alkaline. The zinc carbon batteries have such a

low

> capacity next to alkaline that they don't work out cost

effective. Here

> in the UK the pound shops sell alkaline batteries that match

Duracell

> for capacity. (I know 'cos I did a test)

>

> Also remember that cheap batteries are much more likely to leak

caustic

> electrolyte.

>

> --

> Clive

> http://www.bigclive.com

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In message <cei0gk+237aeGroups>, bobluhrs@... writes

>The NIMH's are xpensive, about $5 each, but once you have a charger,

>that's the end of the expense.  Do NOT get NICADS, they are very

>inferior to NIMH, and only hold a slight charge before needing

>recharging.

I did a side by side comparison of the new 2200mAH AA NiMh rechargeable

batteries and the equivalent Duracell. The rechargeables outlasted the

Duracells! And of course the voltage remains almost constant during the

discharge as opposed to alkaline batteries which trail off slowly.

One slight downside to the high capacity NiMh cells is that they can be

a bit sluggish in Winter temperatures, but this is only at high current

demands.

For low drain applications where the batteries are likely to last a few

months, then the self discharge nature of NiMh rechargeables may mean

that Alkaline is a more consistent option.

--

Clive

http://www.bigclive.com

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In message <cei0gk+237aeGroups>, bobluhrs@... writes

>The NIMH's are xpensive, about $5 each, but once you have a charger,

>that's the end of the expense.  Do NOT get NICADS, they are very

>inferior to NIMH, and only hold a slight charge before needing

>recharging.

I did a side by side comparison of the new 2200mAH AA NiMh rechargeable

batteries and the equivalent Duracell. The rechargeables outlasted the

Duracells! And of course the voltage remains almost constant during the

discharge as opposed to alkaline batteries which trail off slowly.

One slight downside to the high capacity NiMh cells is that they can be

a bit sluggish in Winter temperatures, but this is only at high current

demands.

For low drain applications where the batteries are likely to last a few

months, then the self discharge nature of NiMh rechargeables may mean

that Alkaline is a more consistent option.

--

Clive

http://www.bigclive.com

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Do NIMH batteries have a memory problem?

> In message <cei0gk+237a@e...>, bobluhrs@m... writes

> >The NIMH's are xpensive, about $5 each, but once you have a

charger,

> >that's the end of the expense.  Do NOT get NICADS, they are very

> >inferior to NIMH, and only hold a slight charge before needing

> >recharging.

>

> I did a side by side comparison of the new 2200mAH AA NiMh

rechargeable

> batteries and the equivalent Duracell. The rechargeables

outlasted the

> Duracells! And of course the voltage remains almost constant

during the

> discharge as opposed to alkaline batteries which trail off slowly.

>

> One slight downside to the high capacity NiMh cells is that they

can be

> a bit sluggish in Winter temperatures, but this is only at high

current

> demands.

>

> For low drain applications where the batteries are likely to last

a few

> months, then the self discharge nature of NiMh rechargeables may

mean

> that Alkaline is a more consistent option.

>

> --

> Clive

> http://www.bigclive.com

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not that I'm aware of. I have heard for the first few uses, you

should not let them go all the way down, but keep them fully

charged, which seems like the opposite of NICADS ? not sure abt it,

though.

b

>

> Do NIMH batteries have a memory problem?

>

>

>

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not that I'm aware of. I have heard for the first few uses, you

should not let them go all the way down, but keep them fully

charged, which seems like the opposite of NICADS ? not sure abt it,

though.

b

>

> Do NIMH batteries have a memory problem?

>

>

>

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In message <cek0v4+eeaheGroups>, tempo33x <tempo33x@...>

writes

>Do NIMH batteries have a memory problem?

No. That's just one of their major benefits over NiCd batteries. It's

still a good idea to do a full discharge and recharge now and then

though.

--

Clive

http://www.bigclive.com

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In message <cek0v4+eeaheGroups>, tempo33x <tempo33x@...>

writes

>Do NIMH batteries have a memory problem?

No. That's just one of their major benefits over NiCd batteries. It's

still a good idea to do a full discharge and recharge now and then

though.

--

Clive

http://www.bigclive.com

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