borax

October 10, 2003

Another name for stearic acid is stearin. HTH

J

stearic acid at one of these stores is there any different name for it..

January 28, 2006

Betty

First of all, Borax is NOT poisionous to your skin when used in the small

quantities in bath and toiletry products or as an emolient in creams and

lotions.

In large quantities it could cause skin sensitivity and irritation.

Borax does not have the molecular structure to penetrate the skin to the blood

system so it is not poisonous, but it can cause skin problems if one should soak

in a borax bath for example.

Borax has been used for ages and ages in skin care products, and for an aid in

washing clothes.

hope this helps, Sherry

Natural Care E-books, booklets, spreadsheets

www.herbalsoap-healingcreams.com

November 18, 2007

here it is

http://www.earthclinic.com/CURES/rosacea.html

crystal

--- crystalaldana <crystalaldana@...> wrote:

> hi all,

>

> i was just reading something tht ppl did for

> demodex mites:

>

> mix 1/8 TSP and 1/8 TSP sea salt in a liter of

> bottled water.

>

> drink one of these liters a day for at least 3 days

> straight and then for about 5 days ea week

> for a month

>

> also--mix 1/2tsp borax and h2o2 with water and put

> on face or body to kill mites.

>

> these people said it really works with no harmful

> side effects.

>

> i will be back with that website

>

> crystal

>

________________________________________________________________________________\

____

Be a better pen pal.

Text or chat with friends inside . See how.

http://overview.mail./

November 18, 2007

PLEASE EVERYONE--GO TO THAT EARTHCLINIC.COM AND LOOK

UP MITES IN IS SITE--HE DEFINITELY ACKNOWELEDGES THESE

THINGS AND HAS INTERESTING INFO!!!

--- crystal aldana <crystalaldana@...> wrote:

> here it is

>

> http://www.earthclinic.com/CURES/rosacea.html

>

> crystal

> --- crystalaldana <crystalaldana@...> wrote:

>

> > hi all,

> >

> > i was just reading something tht ppl did for

> > demodex mites:

> >

> > mix 1/8 TSP and 1/8 TSP sea salt in a liter of

> > bottled water.

> >

> > drink one of these liters a day for at least 3

> days

> > straight and then for about 5 days ea week

> > for a month

> >

> > also--mix 1/2tsp borax and h2o2 with water and put

> > on face or body to kill mites.

> >

> > these people said it really works with no harmful

> > side effects.

> >

> > i will be back with that website

> >

> > crystal

> >

>

________________________________________________________________________________\

____

> Be a better pen pal.

> Text or chat with friends inside . See

> how. http://overview.mail./

>

________________________________________________________________________________\

____

Get easy, one-click access to your favorites.

Make your homepage.

http://www./r/hs

November 18, 2007

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Borax

>

> > hi all,

> >

> > i was just reading something tht ppl did for

> > demodex mites:

> >

> > mix 1/8 TSP and 1/8 TSP sea salt in a liter of

> > bottled water.

> >

> > drink one of these liters a day for at least 3 days

> > straight and then for about 5 days ea week

> > for a month

> >

> > also--mix 1/2tsp borax and h2o2 with water and put

> > on face or body to kill mites.

> >

> > these people said it really works with no harmful

> > side effects.

> >

> > i will be back with that website

> >

> > crystal

> >

>

______________________________________________________________________

______________

> Be a better pen pal.

> Text or chat with friends inside . See how.

http://overview.mail./

>

November 18, 2007

Crystal,

Invesigate more before ingesting any of that.

Ask what brand and such they use.

Please don't run out and do it with out researching it more.

Ray

>

> > hi all,

> >

> > i was just reading something tht ppl did for

> > demodex mites:

> >

> > mix 1/8 TSP and 1/8 TSP sea salt in a liter of

> > bottled water.

> >

> > drink one of these liters a day for at least 3 days

> > straight and then for about 5 days ea week

> > for a month

> >

> > also--mix 1/2tsp borax and h2o2 with water and put

> > on face or body to kill mites.

> >

> > these people said it really works with no harmful

> > side effects.

> >

> > i will be back with that website

> >

> > crystal

> >

>

______________________________________________________________________

______________

> Be a better pen pal.

> Text or chat with friends inside . See how.

http://overview.mail./

>

November 18, 2007

>

> > hi all,

> >

> > i was just reading something tht ppl did for

> > demodex mites:

> >

> > mix 1/8 TSP and 1/8 TSP sea salt in a liter of

> > bottled water.

> >

> > drink one of these liters a day for at least 3 days

> > straight and then for about 5 days ea week

> > for a month

> >

> > also--mix 1/2tsp borax and h2o2 with water and put

> > on face or body to kill mites.

> >

> > these people said it really works with no harmful

> > side effects.

> >

> > i will be back with that website

> >

> > crystal

> >

>

______________________________________________________________________

______________

> Be a better pen pal.

> Text or chat with friends inside . See how.

http://overview.mail./

>

November 19, 2007

Hi Ray,

It doesnt sound like a good idea to drink borax huh?

God--i just get so desperate sometimes...

i was thinking about going to a derm for demodex...but

i have wasted so much $$ on drs who have never helped

me...

I do not feel pin pricks anymore...i did a month

ago--but the pin pricks got less and less after i

started my parasite and candida cleanse.

now i just feel crawlies on my face, in nose and

scalp. i also get bumps on my scalp.

i think i will just try wahing my clothes and maybe my

face with the borax--not drinking it.

crystal

--- castiar <castiar@...> wrote:

> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Borax

>

> >

> > > hi all,

> > >

> > > i was just reading something tht ppl did for

> > > demodex mites:

> > >

> > > mix 1/8 TSP and 1/8 TSP sea salt in a liter of

> > > bottled water.

> > >

> > > drink one of these liters a day for at least 3

> days

> > > straight and then for about 5 days ea week

> > > for a month

> > >

> > > also--mix 1/2tsp borax and h2o2 with water and

> put

> > > on face or body to kill mites.

> > >

> > > these people said it really works with no

> harmful

> > > side effects.

> > >

> > > i will be back with that website

> > >

> > > crystal

> > >

> >

>

______________________________________________________________________

> ______________

> > Be a better pen pal.

> > Text or chat with friends inside . See

> how.

> http://overview.mail./

> >

>

________________________________________________________________________________\

____

Never miss a thing. Make your home page.

http://www./r/hs

November 21, 2007

Where can i get borax?

November 24, 2008

I have a reason for posting this, that will come.

For now, there is good info here. I have used this on myself and is what healed my first two craters of simmering hell on my arms way back when. I will remind you those lesions were on the order of 7cm long and 5 cm wide. Substitute human for dog. There is a great explanation of the usefulness of H202, vinegar, and borax. The actions of Borax can also be applied to the environment. This will also tell you on how Borax works to kill and also addresses toxicity issues. Also, remember, H202 is a penetrant and very effective.

Frito

Ted replies, "A definitive recipe is add 1-2 tablespoon of borax per 500 cc of 1% hydrogen peroxide solution. To make a 3% hydrogen peroxide to 1%, roughly get one part of 3% H2O2 plus two parts of water. Then apply them on the dog. Wash with this solution daily, no rinsing. If it doesn't go away, I have found mites, or mange to have a large "beehive" hidden somewhere. In which case, quarantine the dog in a small area that is 100% sterile."

"Approximate measurements are 1 bottle of 500 of 3% H2O2, plus 1000 of the cc of water, plus heaping 3 tablespoons of borax. Stir until most of borax is dissolved. The borax is past the point of saturation here so you will see some borax around. Technically the concentration is around 1.5% H2O2, and this is a bit stronger because by the time we finish with it, the H2O2 gets reacted with other things, and by the time we used it is is usually ends up near a 1% solution anyway."

"You need to get put as much borax until it no longer dissolves in a pail of water and forms a precipitate. This is a saturated solution of borax. Add H2O2 to about 1% concentration to a pail of water. Soak the entire dog, several times. Keep the dog wet for some time. The borax will destroy the eggs from laying under the skin which causes the mange. Get some solution and spray or use this to wipe all floors so the dog will not get re infected. Repeat this every week when bathing. This is not a perfect cure, but it my dog now no longer have mange. My dog was completely cured. You can try other chemicals such as sodium perborate, which is more convenient since you don't need to add the hydrogen peroxide."

"The solution (borax or preferably sodium perborate) is to be applied AFTER the shampooing and rinsing. The sodium perborate should remain on the dog after the bath. You will not rinse this at all. It must remain on the dog throughout the day so that it will act continuously on the bugs."

"However, I do recommend a less toxic form of borax, which is sodium perborate if you can find one. The secret is that borax (plus hydrogen peroxide) will work better then most other remedies I have tried, this includes mineral oil, neem oil (no, neem oil does not kill the mange as effectively as sodium perborate) I have tried it. In my "mange colonies" and commercial brands to kill insects don't work. Hydrogen peroxide DOES NOT KILL mange, I USED IT SIMPLY USED IT AS A CATALYST for ordinary borax in case you cannot obtain sodium perborate. Mineral oils simply prevent oxygen from reaching mange, but that didn't stop it. I have tried naphta, bentonite clays, DMSO, potassium permanganate, light fluid, etc. They all worked temporarily, and it just came back. I must make a strong statement that the formula (borax+h2o2 or sodium perborate) works bests and it is broad spectrum. You can use it to control mange, mites, fleas, and lyme disease

(initiated by those crawly insects). I have actually compared side to side with neem oil, mineral oil, apple cider vinegar and others here in Bangkok and this is the most wide spectrum cure I have found. Borax prevents denaturation of DNA/RNA in dogs and I currently use this as life extension for dogs. For example a ribose sugar, deoxyribose sugar, and various sugar that causes accelerated aging in dogs can be slowed down with supplementation of dogs indirectly when you do the borax wash. "

"Prepare peroxide 1% solution, add 2-3 tablespoon of borax to that cup. Stir and wait for a couple of minutes for the borax to dissolve. The formula doesn't require an exact science. The importance is to add enough borax until the solution is no longer soluble and well past saturation."

"...The reason why it is not working is YOU CANNOT RINSE THE DOG OF borax and peroxide solution with any shampoo or water. After bathing the dog, keep the dog that way, no drying no rinsing. This is why the dog has not improved. Also BORAX is added DIRECTLY to the 1% hydrogen peroxide solution and no water is added separately, otherwise the solution is too weak."

TED'S UPDATE7/12/2006: "I have reviewed all the dog's mange treatments both by my own tests and by many contributors. It appears that many people have trouble obtaining materials, such as sodium perborate hydrate, so I revised the remedy to hydrogen peroxide plus borax solution applied only once or so every week. The solution of sodium perborate hydrate is very much similar when borax and hydrogen peroxide is added. Some have either substituted hydrogen peroxide with benzoyl peroxide.

The problem about benzoyl peroxide is the upper limit by which you can use it without effect the dog as it is somewhat more toxic if given beyond a 10% concentration. 5% is usually a safe concentration. Benzoyl peroxide because of its toxicity is somewhat of an insecticide, while hydrogen peroxide is not, what it is in the original formulation is that it is a penetrant allowing the borax to go through the skin. Now some did not like hydrogen peroxide due to its limited supplies, so they make use of apple cider vinegar. For me a regular vinegar will do. Both a vinegar and hydrogen peroxide has two similarities. It is both a penetrant and when added with a safe insecticidal material such as borax, which has an toxicity on LD 50 equivalent to that of salt, this is the preferred method. However, one should not use boric acid since there are reported deaths associated with boric acid but not borax.

Boric acid is not recommended for use as it is much more toxic than borax. Borax's toxicity is about 3000 mg/kg, which is the equivalent toxicity to about that of salt. (check wikipedia). The idea is to make a solution of borax so that the solution can cover the entire body and penetrate through the skin of the dog to kill the demodex mites, for example. To use a spot treatment by pure powder will take an infinitely long time as it does not get to it through the dog's skin.

In some cases, people have tried neem oil, mineral oil. Both of these have similar effectiveness, but in different ways. Neem oil prevents the Demodex fleas from laying eggs by modifying their hormones, while mineral oils are moderately toxic only to the demodex eggs, not necessarily killing them. However, both are very limited based on my tests in really killing the insect. You see borax will both kill the eggs, modifying the hormones and their eggs by drying them all at once. The weakness of borax is limited solubility and limited penetration of the skin which you need either vinegar, hydrogen peroxide, benzoyl peroxide (toxic), MSM or DMSO solution. Ideally 10% DMSO should be preferred.

Pine Sol has limited insecticidal effectiveness, being a contact insecticidal, and does not provide lasting killing power once it has evaporated and does not kill living fleas, but it does kill their eggs somewhat. Only a fairly concentrated solution works and it does not prevent re-laying of stray eggs by the dog. In other words, the use of neem oil, mineral oil, benzoyl peroxide, and vaseline will not prevent the recurring of mange since eggs are not just on the dog, but can be anywhere in the house. Therefore re-infection is at issue. The one magic that borax has over its neighbors is that the borax powder that the dogs leaves in the house will kill the eggs even after the dogs no longer has mange and re-infection is therefore next to impossible. However, borax has limited effect on killing the larger mites and fleas, but not mange.

I found that adding 1/8 teaspoon per liter of water of borax added to the dog's water will cause the larger fleas to dry up and die at the same time. My dog for some reason likes to eat something like more than 1 gram of the sodium perborate crystals whenever he feels sick and the fleas just die off. The borax modifies the dog's blood and kills the mange inside out. This is why borax, i.e., sodium perborate, is required for mange, but not anything else due to preventive re-infection of the mange by the powder of the borax that destroys the eggs where the dog sleeps and where it walks around throughout the house.

VASELINE: The problem about using vaseline as an insecticide is that it has limited killing of eggs, but its weakness is that it is not a penetrant, and therefore the frequency of applications will take at least once every other day. Additionally, the hair of the dog will prevent proper application.

Some have went so far as to not use a solution of borax with hydrogen peroxide as a rinse then followed likely, perhaps a borax powder after bath. On the argument of being effective only as a spot treatment. Since dogs do not have sweat glands, not using a rinse will prevent the borax from absorbing into the skin to kill the mange under its skin. So this is not going to work. You need both borax as an insecticide, the water as the solution which to spread it to the skin surface, and a reliable penetrant to get it through the skin, such as vinegar, msm, DMSO, or even hydrogen peroxide. A benzoyl peroxide is both a penetrant and insecticide, but at higher concentration is somewhat toxic for dogs and as a result you are pretty much limited by the maximum concentration not to exceed beyond 5% being a preferred safety. I would prefer to limit myself at 3%.

I therefore suggest, not to get you lost in the woods, is that whatever formulation you use, always stick with borax and borax derivatives, such as sodium perborate monohydrate being the main insecticidal chemicals for the dog.

Pyrethrum is o.k. but in very low concentration of about 0.1% - 0.2% to prevent skin irritation for the dogs near the skin infection areas. The second mix you need is always the penetrant and the third formulation is appropriate dilutions in water. To provide lasting killing effect, non of these chemicals should generally be non-volatile insecticidal mixtures, which unfortunately most recommended are, with exception of perhaps borax and bentonite. Bentonite causes eggs to dry, so they can be used also, but they have no insecticidal mixture as borax and borax can performs both killing the insect, modifying the hormones to prevent egg laying, becomes a stomach poison for the insect, and at the same time causes their eggs to dry up.

I therefore will remain very flexible about what penetrants you use including hydrogen peroxide, benzoyl peroxide (limited concentration), and vinegar. It must be noted that when formulating any mange it must be noted that they must be non-volatile and the chemicals should cause microscopic residues around the house so that re infection of mange is prevented, including mites and fleas.

I think this wraps up the basic theory and application of mange treatment, and hopefully other people will make a more effective formulations in the future at least equal or better than the original formula I have proposed. Just want to tell you that there are many ways you can treat mange, but the issue is one of toxicity, re infection, toxic levels, which portion kills it and how, and which is the penetrant which is the key to it all. Penetrant is important, the chemical must reach the target demodex under the skin. Usually hydrogen peroxide, vinegar, DMSO, and MSM will do that. It must be reminded again that borax, to work most effectively, is to prepare a solution without washing it off, followed by a small amount of borax powder to be applied if you wish. Any other application other than this such as using as purely powder form is NOT going to work."

November 24, 2008

I've been thinking of making a borax solution to spray in my car and

letting it soak into the seat fabric and floor carpet.

So the proper mix is this? Add borax to 1L of water until it

dissolves no more, then add .5L of H202?

>

> I have a reason for posting this, that will come.

>

> For now, there is good info here. I have used this on myself and

is what healed my first two craters of simmering hell on my arms way

back when. I will remind you those lesions were on the order of 7cm

long and 5 cm wide. Substitute human for dog. There is a great

explanation of the usefulness of H202, vinegar, and borax. The

actions of Borax can also be applied to the environment. This will

also tell you on how Borax works to kill and also addresses toxicity

issues. Also, remember, H202 is a penetrant and very effective.

>

> Frito

>

> Ted replies, " A definitive recipe is add 1-2 tablespoon of borax

per 500 cc of 1% hydrogen peroxide solution. To make a 3% hydrogen

peroxide to 1%, roughly get one part of 3% H2O2 plus two parts of

water. Then apply them on the dog. Wash with this solution daily, no

rinsing. If it doesn't go away, I have found mites, or mange to have

a large " beehive " hidden somewhere. In which case, quarantine the

dog in a small area that is 100% sterile. "

>

> " Approximate measurements are 1 bottle of 500 of 3% H2O2, plus

1000 of the cc of water, plus heaping 3 tablespoons of borax. Stir

until most of borax is dissolved. The borax is past the point of

saturation here so you will see some borax around. Technically the

concentration is around 1.5% H2O2, and this is a bit stronger

because by the time we finish with it, the H2O2 gets reacted with

other things, and by the time we used it is is usually ends up near

a 1% solution anyway. "

>

> " You need to get put as much borax until it no longer dissolves in

a pail of water and forms a precipitate. This is a saturated

solution of borax. Add H2O2 to about 1% concentration to a pail of

water. Soak the entire dog, several times. Keep the dog wet for some

time. The borax will destroy the eggs from laying under the skin

which causes the mange. Get some solution and spray or use this to

wipe all floors so the dog will not get re infected. Repeat this

every week when bathing. This is not a perfect cure, but it my dog

now no longer have mange. My dog was completely cured. You can try

other chemicals such as sodium perborate, which is more convenient

since you don't need to add the hydrogen peroxide. "

>

> " The solution (borax or preferably sodium perborate) is to be

applied AFTER the shampooing and rinsing. The sodium perborate

should remain on the dog after the bath. You will not rinse this at

all. It must remain on the dog throughout the day so that it will

act continuously on the bugs. "

>

> " However, I do recommend a less toxic form of borax, which is

sodium perborate if you can find one. The secret is that borax (plus

hydrogen peroxide) will work better then most other remedies I have

tried, this includes mineral oil, neem oil (no, neem oil does not

kill the mange as effectively as sodium perborate) I have tried it.

In my " mange colonies " and commercial brands to kill insects don't

work. Hydrogen peroxide DOES NOT KILL mange, I USED IT SIMPLY USED

IT AS A CATALYST for ordinary borax in case you cannot obtain sodium

perborate. Mineral oils simply prevent oxygen from reaching mange,

but that didn't stop it. I have tried naphta, bentonite clays, DMSO,

potassium permanganate, light fluid, etc. They all worked

temporarily, and it just came back. I must make a strong statement

that the formula (borax+h2o2 or sodium perborate) works bests and it

is broad spectrum. You can use it to control mange, mites, fleas,

and lyme disease (initiated by those

> crawly insects). I have actually compared side to side with neem

oil, mineral oil, apple cider vinegar and others here in Bangkok and

this is the most wide spectrum cure I have found. Borax prevents

denaturation of DNA/RNA in dogs and I currently use this as life

extension for dogs. For example a ribose sugar, deoxyribose sugar,

and various sugar that causes accelerated aging in dogs can be

slowed down with supplementation of dogs indirectly when you do the

borax wash. "

>

> " Prepare peroxide 1% solution, add 2-3 tablespoon of borax to that

cup. Stir and wait for a couple of minutes for the borax to

dissolve. The formula doesn't require an exact science. The

importance is to add enough borax until the solution is no longer

soluble and well past saturation. "

>

> " ...The reason why it is not working is YOU CANNOT RINSE THE DOG

OF borax and peroxide solution with any shampoo or water. After

bathing the dog, keep the dog that way, no drying no rinsing. This

is why the dog has not improved. Also BORAX is added DIRECTLY to the

1% hydrogen peroxide solution and no water is added separately,

otherwise the solution is too weak. "

>

> TED'S UPDATE

> 7/12/2006: " I have reviewed all the dog's mange treatments both by

my own tests and by many contributors. It appears that many people

have trouble obtaining materials, such as sodium perborate hydrate,

so I revised the remedy to hydrogen peroxide plus borax solution

applied only once or so every week. The solution of sodium perborate

hydrate is very much similar when borax and hydrogen peroxide is

added. Some have either substituted hydrogen peroxide with benzoyl

peroxide.

> The problem about benzoyl peroxide is the upper limit by which you

can use it without effect the dog as it is somewhat more toxic if

given beyond a 10% concentration. 5% is usually a safe

concentration. Benzoyl peroxide because of its toxicity is somewhat

of an insecticide, while hydrogen peroxide is not, what it is in the

original formulation is that it is a penetrant allowing the borax to

go through the skin. Now some did not like hydrogen peroxide due to

its limited supplies, so they make use of apple cider vinegar. For

me a regular vinegar will do. Both a vinegar and hydrogen peroxide

has two similarities. It is both a penetrant and when added with a

safe insecticidal material such as borax, which has an toxicity on

LD 50 equivalent to that of salt, this is the preferred method.

However, one should not use boric acid since there are reported

deaths associated with boric acid but not borax.

>

> Boric acid is not recommended for use as it is much more toxic

than borax. Borax's toxicity is about 3000 mg/kg, which is the

equivalent toxicity to about that of salt. (check wikipedia). The

idea is to make a solution of borax so that the solution can cover

the entire body and penetrate through the skin of the dog to kill

the demodex mites, for example. To use a spot treatment by pure

powder will take an infinitely long time as it does not get to it

through the dog's skin.

>

> In some cases, people have tried neem oil, mineral oil. Both of

these have similar effectiveness, but in different ways. Neem oil

prevents the Demodex fleas from laying eggs by modifying their

hormones, while mineral oils are moderately toxic only to the

demodex eggs, not necessarily killing them. However, both are very

limited based on my tests in really killing the insect. You see

borax will both kill the eggs, modifying the hormones and their eggs

by drying them all at once. The weakness of borax is limited

solubility and limited penetration of the skin which you need either

vinegar, hydrogen peroxide, benzoyl peroxide (toxic), MSM or DMSO

solution. Ideally 10% DMSO should be preferred.

>

> Pine Sol has limited insecticidal effectiveness, being a contact

insecticidal, and does not provide lasting killing power once it has

evaporated and does not kill living fleas, but it does kill their

eggs somewhat.. Only a fairly concentrated solution works and it

does not prevent re-laying of stray eggs by the dog. In other words,

the use of neem oil, mineral oil, benzoyl peroxide, and vaseline

will not prevent the recurring of mange since eggs are not just on

the dog, but can be anywhere in the house. Therefore re-infection is

at issue. The one magic that borax has over its neighbors is that

the borax powder that the dogs leaves in the house will kill the

eggs even after the dogs no longer has mange and re-infection is

therefore next to impossible. However, borax has limited effect on

killing the larger mites and fleas, but not mange.

>

> I found that adding 1/8 teaspoon per liter of water of borax added

to the dog's water will cause the larger fleas to dry up and die at

the same time. My dog for some reason likes to eat something like

more than 1 gram of the sodium perborate crystals whenever he feels

sick and the fleas just die off. The borax modifies the dog's blood

and kills the mange inside out. This is why borax, i.e., sodium

perborate, is required for mange, but not anything else due to

preventive re-infection of the mange by the powder of the borax that

destroys the eggs where the dog sleeps and where it walks around

throughout the house.

> VASELINE: The problem about using vaseline as an insecticide is

that it has limited killing of eggs, but its weakness is that it is

not a penetrant, and therefore the frequency of applications will

take at least once every other day. Additionally, the hair of the

dog will prevent proper application.

>

> Some have went so far as to not use a solution of borax with

hydrogen peroxide as a rinse then followed likely, perhaps a borax

powder after bath. On the argument of being effective only as a spot

treatment. Since dogs do not have sweat glands, not using a rinse

will prevent the borax from absorbing into the skin to kill the

mange under its skin. So this is not going to work. You need both

borax as an insecticide, the water as the solution which to spread

it to the skin surface, and a reliable penetrant to get it through

the skin, such as vinegar, msm, DMSO, or even hydrogen peroxide. A

benzoyl peroxide is both a penetrant and insecticide, but at higher

concentration is somewhat toxic for dogs and as a result you are

pretty much limited by the maximum concentration not to exceed

beyond 5% being a preferred safety. I would prefer to limit myself

at 3%.

> I therefore suggest, not to get you lost in the woods, is that

whatever formulation you use, always stick with borax and borax

derivatives, such as sodium perborate monohydrate being the main

insecticidal chemicals for the dog.

>

> Pyrethrum is o.k. but in very low concentration of about 0.1% -

0.2% to prevent skin irritation for the dogs near the skin infection

areas. The second mix you need is always the penetrant and the third

formulation is appropriate dilutions in water. To provide lasting

killing effect, non of these chemicals should generally be non-

volatile insecticidal mixtures, which unfortunately most recommended

are, with exception of perhaps borax and bentonite. Bentonite causes

eggs to dry, so they can be used also, but they have no insecticidal

mixture as borax and borax can performs both killing the insect,

modifying the hormones to prevent egg laying, becomes a stomach

poison for the insect, and at the same time causes their eggs to dry

up.

>

> I therefore will remain very flexible about what penetrants you

use including hydrogen peroxide, benzoyl peroxide (limited

concentration), and vinegar. It must be noted that when formulating

any mange it must be noted that they must be non-volatile and the

chemicals should cause microscopic residues around the house so that

re infection of mange is prevented, including mites and fleas.

>

> I think this wraps up the basic theory and application of mange

treatment, and hopefully other people will make a more effective

formulations in the future at least equal or better than the

original formula I have proposed. Just want to tell you that there

are many ways you can treat mange, but the issue is one of toxicity,

re infection, toxic levels, which portion kills it and how, and

which is the penetrant which is the key to it all. Penetrant is

important, the chemical must reach the target demodex under the

skin. Usually hydrogen peroxide, vinegar, DMSO, and MSM will do

that. It must be reminded again that borax, to work most

effectively, is to prepare a solution without washing it off,

followed by a small amount of borax powder to be applied if you

wish. Any other application other than this such as using as purely

powder form is NOT going to work. "

>

November 24, 2008

You probably would not need the peroxide, the peroxide is used as a

skin penetrant when using borax on your body.

- In bird mites , " kihunrc " <kihunshin@...> wrote:

>

> I've been thinking of making a borax solution to spray in my car and

> letting it soak into the seat fabric and floor carpet.

>

> So the proper mix is this? Add borax to 1L of water until it

> dissolves no more, then add .5L of H202?

>

> >

> > I have a reason for posting this, that will come.

> >

> > For now, there is good info here. I have used this on myself and

> is what healed my first two craters of simmering hell on my arms way

> back when. I will remind you those lesions were on the order of 7cm

> long and 5 cm wide. Substitute human for dog. There is a great

> explanation of the usefulness of H202, vinegar, and borax. The

> actions of Borax can also be applied to the environment. This will

> also tell you on how Borax works to kill and also addresses toxicity

> issues. Also, remember, H202 is a penetrant and very effective.

> >

> > Frito

> >

> > Ted replies, " A definitive recipe is add 1-2 tablespoon of borax

> per 500 cc of 1% hydrogen peroxide solution. To make a 3% hydrogen

> peroxide to 1%, roughly get one part of 3% H2O2 plus two parts of

> water. Then apply them on the dog. Wash with this solution daily, no

> rinsing. If it doesn't go away, I have found mites, or mange to have

> a large " beehive " hidden somewhere. In which case, quarantine the

> dog in a small area that is 100% sterile. "

> >

> > " Approximate measurements are 1 bottle of 500 of 3% H2O2, plus

> 1000 of the cc of water, plus heaping 3 tablespoons of borax. Stir

> until most of borax is dissolved. The borax is past the point of

> saturation here so you will see some borax around. Technically the

> concentration is around 1.5% H2O2, and this is a bit stronger

> because by the time we finish with it, the H2O2 gets reacted with

> other things, and by the time we used it is is usually ends up near

> a 1% solution anyway. "

> >

> > " You need to get put as much borax until it no longer dissolves in

> a pail of water and forms a precipitate. This is a saturated

> solution of borax. Add H2O2 to about 1% concentration to a pail of

> water. Soak the entire dog, several times. Keep the dog wet for some

> time. The borax will destroy the eggs from laying under the skin

> which causes the mange. Get some solution and spray or use this to

> wipe all floors so the dog will not get re infected. Repeat this

> every week when bathing. This is not a perfect cure, but it my dog

> now no longer have mange. My dog was completely cured. You can try

> other chemicals such as sodium perborate, which is more convenient

> since you don't need to add the hydrogen peroxide. "

> >

> > " The solution (borax or preferably sodium perborate) is to be

> applied AFTER the shampooing and rinsing. The sodium perborate

> should remain on the dog after the bath. You will not rinse this at

> all. It must remain on the dog throughout the day so that it will

> act continuously on the bugs. "

> >

> > " However, I do recommend a less toxic form of borax, which is

> sodium perborate if you can find one. The secret is that borax (plus

> hydrogen peroxide) will work better then most other remedies I have

> tried, this includes mineral oil, neem oil (no, neem oil does not

> kill the mange as effectively as sodium perborate) I have tried it.

> In my " mange colonies " and commercial brands to kill insects don't

> work. Hydrogen peroxide DOES NOT KILL mange, I USED IT SIMPLY USED

> IT AS A CATALYST for ordinary borax in case you cannot obtain sodium

> perborate. Mineral oils simply prevent oxygen from reaching mange,

> but that didn't stop it. I have tried naphta, bentonite clays, DMSO,

> potassium permanganate, light fluid, etc. They all worked

> temporarily, and it just came back. I must make a strong statement

> that the formula (borax+h2o2 or sodium perborate) works bests and it

> is broad spectrum. You can use it to control mange, mites, fleas,

> and lyme disease (initiated by those

> > crawly insects). I have actually compared side to side with neem

> oil, mineral oil, apple cider vinegar and others here in Bangkok and

> this is the most wide spectrum cure I have found. Borax prevents

> denaturation of DNA/RNA in dogs and I currently use this as life

> extension for dogs. For example a ribose sugar, deoxyribose sugar,

> and various sugar that causes accelerated aging in dogs can be

> slowed down with supplementation of dogs indirectly when you do the

> borax wash. "

> >

> > " Prepare peroxide 1% solution, add 2-3 tablespoon of borax to that

> cup. Stir and wait for a couple of minutes for the borax to

> dissolve. The formula doesn't require an exact science. The

> importance is to add enough borax until the solution is no longer

> soluble and well past saturation. "

> >

> > " ...The reason why it is not working is YOU CANNOT RINSE THE DOG

> OF borax and peroxide solution with any shampoo or water. After

> bathing the dog, keep the dog that way, no drying no rinsing. This

> is why the dog has not improved. Also BORAX is added DIRECTLY to the

> 1% hydrogen peroxide solution and no water is added separately,

> otherwise the solution is too weak. "

> >

> > TED'S UPDATE

> > 7/12/2006: " I have reviewed all the dog's mange treatments both by

> my own tests and by many contributors. It appears that many people

> have trouble obtaining materials, such as sodium perborate hydrate,

> so I revised the remedy to hydrogen peroxide plus borax solution

> applied only once or so every week. The solution of sodium perborate

> hydrate is very much similar when borax and hydrogen peroxide is

> added. Some have either substituted hydrogen peroxide with benzoyl

> peroxide.

> > The problem about benzoyl peroxide is the upper limit by which you

> can use it without effect the dog as it is somewhat more toxic if

> given beyond a 10% concentration. 5% is usually a safe

> concentration. Benzoyl peroxide because of its toxicity is somewhat

> of an insecticide, while hydrogen peroxide is not, what it is in the

> original formulation is that it is a penetrant allowing the borax to

> go through the skin. Now some did not like hydrogen peroxide due to

> its limited supplies, so they make use of apple cider vinegar. For

> me a regular vinegar will do. Both a vinegar and hydrogen peroxide

> has two similarities. It is both a penetrant and when added with a

> safe insecticidal material such as borax, which has an toxicity on

> LD 50 equivalent to that of salt, this is the preferred method.

> However, one should not use boric acid since there are reported

> deaths associated with boric acid but not borax.

> >

> > Boric acid is not recommended for use as it is much more toxic

> than borax. Borax's toxicity is about 3000 mg/kg, which is the

> equivalent toxicity to about that of salt. (check wikipedia). The

> idea is to make a solution of borax so that the solution can cover

> the entire body and penetrate through the skin of the dog to kill

> the demodex mites, for example. To use a spot treatment by pure

> powder will take an infinitely long time as it does not get to it

> through the dog's skin.

> >

> > In some cases, people have tried neem oil, mineral oil. Both of

> these have similar effectiveness, but in different ways. Neem oil

> prevents the Demodex fleas from laying eggs by modifying their

> hormones, while mineral oils are moderately toxic only to the

> demodex eggs, not necessarily killing them. However, both are very

> limited based on my tests in really killing the insect. You see

> borax will both kill the eggs, modifying the hormones and their eggs

> by drying them all at once. The weakness of borax is limited

> solubility and limited penetration of the skin which you need either

> vinegar, hydrogen peroxide, benzoyl peroxide (toxic), MSM or DMSO

> solution. Ideally 10% DMSO should be preferred.

> >

> > Pine Sol has limited insecticidal effectiveness, being a contact

> insecticidal, and does not provide lasting killing power once it has

> evaporated and does not kill living fleas, but it does kill their

> eggs somewhat.. Only a fairly concentrated solution works and it

> does not prevent re-laying of stray eggs by the dog. In other words,

> the use of neem oil, mineral oil, benzoyl peroxide, and vaseline

> will not prevent the recurring of mange since eggs are not just on

> the dog, but can be anywhere in the house. Therefore re-infection is

> at issue. The one magic that borax has over its neighbors is that

> the borax powder that the dogs leaves in the house will kill the

> eggs even after the dogs no longer has mange and re-infection is

> therefore next to impossible. However, borax has limited effect on

> killing the larger mites and fleas, but not mange.

> >

> > I found that adding 1/8 teaspoon per liter of water of borax added

> to the dog's water will cause the larger fleas to dry up and die at

> the same time. My dog for some reason likes to eat something like

> more than 1 gram of the sodium perborate crystals whenever he feels

> sick and the fleas just die off. The borax modifies the dog's blood

> and kills the mange inside out. This is why borax, i.e., sodium

> perborate, is required for mange, but not anything else due to

> preventive re-infection of the mange by the powder of the borax that

> destroys the eggs where the dog sleeps and where it walks around

> throughout the house.

> > VASELINE: The problem about using vaseline as an insecticide is

> that it has limited killing of eggs, but its weakness is that it is

> not a penetrant, and therefore the frequency of applications will

> take at least once every other day. Additionally, the hair of the

> dog will prevent proper application.

> >

> > Some have went so far as to not use a solution of borax with

> hydrogen peroxide as a rinse then followed likely, perhaps a borax

> powder after bath. On the argument of being effective only as a spot

> treatment. Since dogs do not have sweat glands, not using a rinse

> will prevent the borax from absorbing into the skin to kill the

> mange under its skin. So this is not going to work. You need both

> borax as an insecticide, the water as the solution which to spread

> it to the skin surface, and a reliable penetrant to get it through

> the skin, such as vinegar, msm, DMSO, or even hydrogen peroxide. A

> benzoyl peroxide is both a penetrant and insecticide, but at higher

> concentration is somewhat toxic for dogs and as a result you are

> pretty much limited by the maximum concentration not to exceed

> beyond 5% being a preferred safety. I would prefer to limit myself

> at 3%.

> > I therefore suggest, not to get you lost in the woods, is that

> whatever formulation you use, always stick with borax and borax

> derivatives, such as sodium perborate monohydrate being the main

> insecticidal chemicals for the dog.

> >

> > Pyrethrum is o.k. but in very low concentration of about 0.1% -

> 0.2% to prevent skin irritation for the dogs near the skin infection

> areas. The second mix you need is always the penetrant and the third

> formulation is appropriate dilutions in water. To provide lasting

> killing effect, non of these chemicals should generally be non-

> volatile insecticidal mixtures, which unfortunately most recommended

> are, with exception of perhaps borax and bentonite. Bentonite causes

> eggs to dry, so they can be used also, but they have no insecticidal

> mixture as borax and borax can performs both killing the insect,

> modifying the hormones to prevent egg laying, becomes a stomach

> poison for the insect, and at the same time causes their eggs to dry

> up.

> >

> > I therefore will remain very flexible about what penetrants you

> use including hydrogen peroxide, benzoyl peroxide (limited

> concentration), and vinegar. It must be noted that when formulating

> any mange it must be noted that they must be non-volatile and the

> chemicals should cause microscopic residues around the house so that

> re infection of mange is prevented, including mites and fleas.

> >

> > I think this wraps up the basic theory and application of mange

> treatment, and hopefully other people will make a more effective

> formulations in the future at least equal or better than the

> original formula I have proposed. Just want to tell you that there

> are many ways you can treat mange, but the issue is one of toxicity,

> re infection, toxic levels, which portion kills it and how, and

> which is the penetrant which is the key to it all. Penetrant is

> important, the chemical must reach the target demodex under the

> skin. Usually hydrogen peroxide, vinegar, DMSO, and MSM will do

> that. It must be reminded again that borax, to work most

> effectively, is to prepare a solution without washing it off,

> followed by a small amount of borax powder to be applied if you

> wish. Any other application other than this such as using as purely

> powder form is NOT going to work. "

> >

>

November 24, 2008

Hi frito

Hi

What a great report.

Does the borax go thru the skin enought to become poisoness to the body. How

much do you think goes in ?

I use borax on my skin at 1 cup per 4 gallons of water a soak for 30 mins . I

also mix it in karo syurup 1 part borax & 7 parts syrup . I only use 2

teaspoons to cover my whole body over wet skin . I used it for 3 days and it

knocked out a long standing patch I had on my back that would dissappera with

sulfur crem use m but would return 1 -2 months later . I also would heat threat

th skin with a hair dryer in the affected area. I used a hair dryer at the skin

till warm then hot , then just to the point I hade to jerk it away . Thet would

keep them gone for 60 days usually. I do keep getting reinfected from the woods

, parks, docks & my old trucks. I just came from and old truck and picked up

several just now ...I haven & #39;t used the truck in 1 year . I do go to it &

spray bleach all over it & in it every 30 days . I did not use bleach today ..

so stupid .

I will begin C02 gassing it tomorrow every 10 days for 3 months .

Ok back to the borax

Is the borax absorbtion enough to pass the 5-30 gram limit which is fatal for

ingestion?

I read the MSDS : Borax -ingestion: Fatal dose 5-30g

Please let me know

I saw that ted mentioned Borax as safe as Salt .... huh ?

Thank you for your post

God bless you ,

Bill

fritolay66 wrote:

> I have a reason for posting this, that will come.

>

> For now, there is good info here. I have used this on myself and is what

healed my first two craters of simmering hell on my arms way back when. I will

remind you those lesions were on the order of 7cm long and 5 cm wide.

Substitute human for dog. There is a great explanation of the usefulness of

H202, vinegar, and borax. The actions of Borax can also be applied to the

environment. This will also tell you on how Borax works to kill and also

addresses toxicity issues. Also, remember, H202 is a penetrant and very

effective.

>

> Frito

>

> Ted replies, " A definitive recipe is add 1-2 tablespoon of borax per 500 cc

of 1% hydrogen peroxide solution. To make a 3% hydrogen peroxide to 1%, roughly

get one part of 3% H2O2 plus two parts of water. Then apply them on the dog.

Wash with this solution daily, no rinsing. If it doesn't go away, I have found

mites, or mange to have a large " beehive " hidden somewhere. In which case,

quarantine the dog in a small area that is 100% sterile. "

> " Approximate measurements are 1 bottle of 500 of 3% H2O2, plus 1000 of the cc

of water, plus heaping 3 tablespoons of borax. Stir until most of borax is

dissolved. The borax is past the point of saturation here so you will see some

borax around. Technically the concentration is around 1.5% H2O2, and this is a

bit stronger because by the time we finish with it, the H2O2 gets reacted with

other things, and by the time we used it is is usually ends up near a 1%

solution anyway. "

>

> " You need to get put as much borax until it no longer dissolves in a pail of

water and forms a precipitate. This is a saturated solution of borax. Add H2O2

to about 1% concentration to a pail of water. Soak the entire dog, several

times. Keep the dog wet for some time. The borax will destroy the eggs from

laying under the skin which causes the mange. Get some solution and spray or use

this to wipe all floors so the dog will not get re infected. Repeat this every

week when bathing. This is not a perfect cure, but it my dog now no longer have

mange. My dog was completely cured. You can try other chemicals such as sodium

perborate, which is more convenient since you don't need to add the hydrogen

peroxide. "

>

> " The solution (borax or preferably sodium perborate) is to be applied AFTER

the shampooing and rinsing. The sodium perborate should remain on the dog after

the bath. You will not rinse this at all. It must remain on the dog throughout

the day so that it will act continuously on the bugs. "

>

> " However, I do recommend a less toxic form of borax, which is sodium

perborate if you can find one. The secret is that borax (plus hydrogen peroxide)

will work better then most other remedies I have tried, this includes mineral

oil, neem oil (no, neem oil does not kill the mange as effectively as sodium

perborate) I have tried it. In my " mange colonies " and commercial brands to kill

insects don't work. Hydrogen peroxide DOES NOT KILL mange, I USED IT SIMPLY USED

IT AS A CATALYST for ordinary borax in case you cannot obtain sodium perborate.

Mineral oils simply prevent oxygen from reaching mange, but that didn't stop it.

I have tried naphta, bentonite clays, DMSO, potassium permanganate, light fluid,

etc. They all worked temporarily, and it just came back. I must make a strong

statement that the formula (borax+h2o2 or sodium perborate) works bests and it

is broad spectrum. You can use it to control mange, mites, fleas, and lyme

disease

> (initiated by those crawly insects). I have actually compared side to side

with neem oil, mineral oil, apple cider vinegar and others here in Bangkok and

this is the most wide spectrum cure I have found. Borax prevents denaturation of

DNA/RNA in dogs and I currently use this as life extension for dogs. For example

a ribose sugar, deoxyribose sugar, and various sugar that causes accelerated

aging in dogs can be slowed down with supplementation of dogs indirectly when

you do the borax wash. "

>

> " Prepare peroxide 1% solution, add 2-3 tablespoon of borax to that cup. Stir

and wait for a couple of minutes for the borax to dissolve. The formula doesn't

require an exact science. The importance is to add enough borax until the

solution is no longer soluble and well past saturation. "

>

> " ...The reason why it is not working is YOU CANNOT RINSE THE DOG OF borax and

peroxide solution with any shampoo or water . After bathing the dog, keep the

dog that way, no drying no rinsing. This is why the dog has not improved. Also

BORAX is added DIRECTLY to the 1% hydrogen peroxide solution and no water is

added separately, otherwise the solution is too weak. "

>

> TED'S UPDATE 7/12/2006: " I have reviewed all the dog's mange treatments both

by my own tests and by many contributors. It appears that many people have

trouble obtaining materials, such as sodium perborate hydrate, so I revised the

remedy to hydrogen peroxide plus borax solution applied only once or so every

week . The solution of sodium perborate hydrate is very much similar when borax

and hydrogen peroxide is added. Some have either substituted hydrogen peroxide

with benzoyl peroxide.

> The problem about benzoyl peroxide is the upper limit by which you can use it

without effect the dog as it is somewhat more toxic if given beyond a 10%

concentration. 5% is usually a safe concentration. Benzoyl peroxide because of

its toxicity is somewhat of an insecticide, while hydrogen peroxide is not, what

it is in the original formulation is that it is a penetrant allowing the borax

to go through the skin. Now some did not like hydrogen peroxide due to its

limited supplies, so they make use of apple cider vinegar. For me a regular

vinegar will do. Both a vinegar and hydrogen peroxide has two similarities. It

is both a penetrant and when added with a safe insecticidal material such as

borax, which has an toxicity on LD 50 equivalent to that of salt, this is the

preferred method. However, one should not use boric acid since there are

reported deaths associated with boric acid but not borax.

>

> Boric acid is not recommended for use as it is much more toxic than borax .

Borax's toxicity is about 3000 mg/kg, which is the equivalent toxicity to about

that of salt. (check wikipedia). The idea is to make a solution of borax so that

the solution can cover the entire body and penetrate through the skin of the dog

to kill the demodex mites, for example. To use a spot treatment by pure powder

will take an infinitely long time as it does not get to it through the dog's

skin.

>

> In some cases, people have tried neem oil, mineral oil. Both of these have

similar effectiveness, but in different ways. Neem oil prevents the Demodex

fleas from laying eggs by modifying their hormones, while mineral oils are

moderately toxic only to the demodex eggs, not necessarily killing them.

However, both are very limited based on my tests in really killing the insect.

You see borax will both kill the eggs, modifying the hormones and their eggs by

drying them all at once. The weakness of borax is limited solubility and limited

penetration of the skin which you need either vinegar, hydrogen peroxide,

benzoyl peroxide (toxic), MSM or DMSO solution. Ideally 10% DMSO should be

preferred .

>

> Pine Sol has limited insecticidal effectiveness, being a contact

insecticidal, and does not provide lasting killing power once it has evaporated

and does not kill living fleas, but it does kill their eggs somewhat. Only a

fairly concentrated solution works and it does not prevent re-laying of stray

eggs by the dog. In other words, the use of neem oil, mineral oil, benzoyl

peroxide, and vaseline will not prevent the recurring of mange since eggs are

not just on the dog, but can be anywhere in the house. Therefore re-infection is

at issue. The one magic that borax has over its neighbors is that the borax

powder that the dogs leaves in the house will kill the eggs even after the dogs

no longer has mange and re-infection is therefore next to impossible. However,

borax has limited effect on killing the larger mites and fleas, but not mange.

>

> I found that adding 1/8 teaspoon per liter of water of borax added to the

dog's water will cause the larger fleas to dry up and die at the same time . My

dog for some reason likes to eat something like more than 1 gram of the sodium

perborate crystals whenever he feels sick and the fleas just die off. The borax

modifies the dog's blood and kills the mange inside out. This is why borax,

i.e., sodium perborate, is required for mange, but not anything else due to

preventive re-infection of the mange by the powder of the borax that destroys

the eggs where the dog sleeps and where it walks around throughout the house.

> VASELINE: The problem about using vaseline as an insecticide is that it has

limited killing of eggs, but its weakness is that it is not a penetrant, and

therefore the frequency of applications will take at least once every other day.

Additionally, the hair of the dog will prevent proper application.

>

> Some have went so far as to not use a solution of borax with hydrogen

peroxide as a rinse then followed likely, perhaps a borax powder after bath. On

the argument of being effective only as a spot treatment. Since dogs do not have

sweat glands, not using a rinse will prevent the borax from absorbing into the

skin to kill the mange under its skin. So this is not going to work. You need

both borax as an insecticide, the water as the solution which to spread it to

the skin surface, and a reliable penetrant to get it through the skin, such as

vinegar, msm, DMSO, or even hydrogen peroxide . A benzoyl peroxide is both a

penetrant and insecticide, but at higher concentration is somewhat toxic for

dogs and as a result you are pretty much limited by the maximum concentration

not to exceed beyond 5% being a preferred safety. I would prefer to limit myself

at 3%.

> I therefore suggest, not to get you lost in the woods, is that whatever

formulation you use, always stick with borax and borax derivatives, such as

sodium perborate monohydrate being the main insecticidal chemicals for the do g.

>

> Pyrethrum is o.k. but in very low concentration of about 0.1% - 0.2% to

prevent skin irritation for the dogs near the skin infection areas. The second

mix you need is always the penetrant and the third formulation is appropriate

dilutions in water. To provide lasting killing effect, non of these chemicals

should generally be non-volatile insecticidal mixtures, which unfortunately most

recommended are, with exception of perhaps borax and bentonite. Bentonite causes

eggs to dry, so they can be used also, but they have no insecticidal mixture as

borax and borax can performs both killing the insect, modifying the hormones to

prevent egg laying, becomes a stomach poison for the insect, and at the same

time causes their eggs to dry up.

>

> I therefore will remain very flexible about what penetrants you use including

hydrogen peroxide, benzoyl peroxide (limited concentration) , and vinegar. It

must be noted that when formulating any mange it must be noted that they must be

non-volatile and the chemicals should cause microscopic residues around the

house so that re infection of mange is prevented, including mites and fleas.

>

> I think this wraps up the basic theory and application of mange treatment,

and hopefully other people will make a more effective formulations in the future

at least equal or better than the original formula I have proposed. Just want to

tell you that there are many ways you can treat mange, but the issue is one of

toxicity, re infection, toxic levels, which portion kills it and how, and which

is the penetrant which is the key to it all. Penetrant is important, the

chemical must reach the target demodex under the skin. Usually hydrogen

peroxide, vinegar, DMSO, and MSM will do that. It must be reminded again that

borax, to work most effectively, is to prepare a solution without washing it

off, followed by a small amount of borax powder to be applied if you wish. Any

other application other than this such as using as purely powder form is NOT

going to work. "

>

November 24, 2008

If you have a cloth interior, you wouldn't want to use H202 on it as it will bleach it. Not like bleach, but with enough application and baking in the sun, you would encounter signifigant fading.

From: savemyskin4me <savemyskin4me@...>bird mites Sent: Monday, November 24, 2008 1:43:49 AMSubject: Re: Borax

You probably would not need the peroxide, the peroxide is used as askin penetrant when using borax on your body.- In bird mites, "kihunrc" <kihunshin@. ..> wrote:>> I've been thinking of making a borax solution to spray in my car and > letting it soak into the seat fabric and floor carpet.> > So the proper mix is this? Add borax to 1L of water until it > dissolves no more, then add .5L of H202?> > > >> > I have a reason for posting this, that will come. > > > > For now, there is good

info here. I have used this on myself and > is what healed my first two craters of simmering hell on my arms way > back when. I will remind you those lesions were on the order of 7cm > long and 5 cm wide. Substitute human for dog. There is a great > explanation of the usefulness of H202, vinegar, and borax. The > actions of Borax can also be applied to the environment. This will > also tell you on how Borax works to kill and also addresses toxicity > issues. Also, remember, H202 is a penetrant and very effective.> > > > Frito> > > > Ted replies, "A definitive recipe is add 1-2 tablespoon of borax > per 500 cc of 1% hydrogen peroxide solution. To make a 3% hydrogen > peroxide to 1%, roughly get one part of 3% H2O2 plus two parts of > water. Then apply them on the dog. Wash with this solution daily, no > rinsing. If it doesn't go away, I

have found mites, or mange to have > a large "beehive" hidden somewhere. In which case, quarantine the > dog in a small area that is 100% sterile."> > > > "Approximate measurements are 1 bottle of 500 of 3% H2O2, plus > 1000 of the cc of water, plus heaping 3 tablespoons of borax. Stir > until most of borax is dissolved. The borax is past the point of > saturation here so you will see some borax around. Technically the > concentration is around 1.5% H2O2, and this is a bit stronger > because by the time we finish with it, the H2O2 gets reacted with > other things, and by the time we used it is is usually ends up near > a 1% solution anyway."> > > > "You need to get put as much borax until it no longer dissolves in > a pail of water and forms a precipitate. This is a saturated > solution of borax. Add H2O2 to about 1% concentration to a

pail of > water. Soak the entire dog, several times. Keep the dog wet for some > time. The borax will destroy the eggs from laying under the skin > which causes the mange. Get some solution and spray or use this to > wipe all floors so the dog will not get re infected. Repeat this > every week when bathing. This is not a perfect cure, but it my dog > now no longer have mange. My dog was completely cured. You can try > other chemicals such as sodium perborate, which is more convenient > since you don't need to add the hydrogen peroxide."> > > > "The solution (borax or preferably sodium perborate) is to be > applied AFTER the shampooing and rinsing. The sodium perborate > should remain on the dog after the bath. You will not rinse this at > all. It must remain on the dog throughout the day so that it will > act continuously on the bugs."> >

> > "However, I do recommend a less toxic form of borax, which is > sodium perborate if you can find one. The secret is that borax (plus > hydrogen peroxide) will work better then most other remedies I have > tried, this includes mineral oil, neem oil (no, neem oil does not > kill the mange as effectively as sodium perborate) I have tried it. > In my "mange colonies" and commercial brands to kill insects don't > work. Hydrogen peroxide DOES NOT KILL mange, I USED IT SIMPLY USED > IT AS A CATALYST for ordinary borax in case you cannot obtain sodium > perborate. Mineral oils simply prevent oxygen from reaching mange, > but that didn't stop it. I have tried naphta, bentonite clays, DMSO, > potassium permanganate, light fluid, etc. They all worked > temporarily, and it just came back. I must make a strong statement > that the formula (borax+h2o2 or sodium

perborate) works bests and it > is broad spectrum. You can use it to control mange, mites, fleas, > and lyme disease (initiated by those> > crawly insects). I have actually compared side to side with neem > oil, mineral oil, apple cider vinegar and others here in Bangkok and > this is the most wide spectrum cure I have found. Borax prevents > denaturation of DNA/RNA in dogs and I currently use this as life > extension for dogs. For example a ribose sugar, deoxyribose sugar, > and various sugar that causes accelerated aging in dogs can be > slowed down with supplementation of dogs indirectly when you do the > borax wash. "> > > > "Prepare peroxide 1% solution, add 2-3 tablespoon of borax to that > cup. Stir and wait for a couple of minutes for the borax to > dissolve. The formula doesn't require an exact science. The > importance is to add

enough borax until the solution is no longer > soluble and well past saturation."> > > > "...The reason why it is not working is YOU CANNOT RINSE THE DOG > OF borax and peroxide solution with any shampoo or water. After > bathing the dog, keep the dog that way, no drying no rinsing. This > is why the dog has not improved. Also BORAX is added DIRECTLY to the > 1% hydrogen peroxide solution and no water is added separately, > otherwise the solution is too weak."> > > > > > TED'S UPDATE> > 7/12/2006: "I have reviewed all the dog's mange treatments both by > my own tests and by many contributors. It appears that many people > have trouble obtaining materials, such as sodium perborate hydrate, > so I revised the remedy to hydrogen peroxide plus borax solution > applied only once or so every week. The solution of sodium perborate

> hydrate is very much similar when borax and hydrogen peroxide is > added. Some have either substituted hydrogen peroxide with benzoyl > peroxide.> > The problem about benzoyl peroxide is the upper limit by which you > can use it without effect the dog as it is somewhat more toxic if > given beyond a 10% concentration. 5% is usually a safe > concentration. Benzoyl peroxide because of its toxicity is somewhat > of an insecticide, while hydrogen peroxide is not, what it is in the > original formulation is that it is a penetrant allowing the borax to > go through the skin. Now some did not like hydrogen peroxide due to > its limited supplies, so they make use of apple cider vinegar. For > me a regular vinegar will do. Both a vinegar and hydrogen peroxide > has two similarities. It is both a penetrant and when added with a > safe insecticidal material such

as borax, which has an toxicity on > LD 50 equivalent to that of salt, this is the preferred method. > However, one should not use boric acid since there are reported > deaths associated with boric acid but not borax.> > > > Boric acid is not recommended for use as it is much more toxic > than borax. Borax's toxicity is about 3000 mg/kg, which is the > equivalent toxicity to about that of salt. (check wikipedia). The > idea is to make a solution of borax so that the solution can cover > the entire body and penetrate through the skin of the dog to kill > the demodex mites, for example. To use a spot treatment by pure > powder will take an infinitely long time as it does not get to it > through the dog's skin.> > > > In some cases, people have tried neem oil, mineral oil. Both of > these have similar effectiveness, but in different ways.

Neem oil > prevents the Demodex fleas from laying eggs by modifying their > hormones, while mineral oils are moderately toxic only to the > demodex eggs, not necessarily killing them. However, both are very > limited based on my tests in really killing the insect. You see > borax will both kill the eggs, modifying the hormones and their eggs > by drying them all at once. The weakness of borax is limited > solubility and limited penetration of the skin which you need either > vinegar, hydrogen peroxide, benzoyl peroxide (toxic), MSM or DMSO > solution. Ideally 10% DMSO should be preferred.> > > > Pine Sol has limited insecticidal effectiveness, being a contact > insecticidal, and does not provide lasting killing power once it has > evaporated and does not kill living fleas, but it does kill their > eggs somewhat.. Only a fairly concentrated solution

works and it > does not prevent re-laying of stray eggs by the dog. In other words, > the use of neem oil, mineral oil, benzoyl peroxide, and vaseline > will not prevent the recurring of mange since eggs are not just on > the dog, but can be anywhere in the house. Therefore re-infection is > at issue. The one magic that borax has over its neighbors is that > the borax powder that the dogs leaves in the house will kill the > eggs even after the dogs no longer has mange and re-infection is > therefore next to impossible. However, borax has limited effect on > killing the larger mites and fleas, but not mange.> > > > I found that adding 1/8 teaspoon per liter of water of borax added > to the dog's water will cause the larger fleas to dry up and die at > the same time. My dog for some reason likes to eat something like > more than 1 gram of the sodium

perborate crystals whenever he feels > sick and the fleas just die off. The borax modifies the dog's blood > and kills the mange inside out. This is why borax, i.e., sodium > perborate, is required for mange, but not anything else due to > preventive re-infection of the mange by the powder of the borax that > destroys the eggs where the dog sleeps and where it walks around > throughout the house.> > VASELINE: The problem about using vaseline as an insecticide is > that it has limited killing of eggs, but its weakness is that it is > not a penetrant, and therefore the frequency of applications will > take at least once every other day. Additionally, the hair of the > dog will prevent proper application.> > > > Some have went so far as to not use a solution of borax with > hydrogen peroxide as a rinse then followed likely, perhaps a borax >

powder after bath. On the argument of being effective only as a spot > treatment. Since dogs do not have sweat glands, not using a rinse > will prevent the borax from absorbing into the skin to kill the > mange under its skin. So this is not going to work. You need both > borax as an insecticide, the water as the solution which to spread > it to the skin surface, and a reliable penetrant to get it through > the skin, such as vinegar, msm, DMSO, or even hydrogen peroxide. A > benzoyl peroxide is both a penetrant and insecticide, but at higher > concentration is somewhat toxic for dogs and as a result you are > pretty much limited by the maximum concentration not to exceed > beyond 5% being a preferred safety. I would prefer to limit myself > at 3%.> > I therefore suggest, not to get you lost in the woods, is that > whatever formulation you use, always stick with

borax and borax > derivatives, such as sodium perborate monohydrate being the main > insecticidal chemicals for the dog.> > > > Pyrethrum is o.k. but in very low concentration of about 0.1% - > 0.2% to prevent skin irritation for the dogs near the skin infection > areas. The second mix you need is always the penetrant and the third > formulation is appropriate dilutions in water. To provide lasting > killing effect, non of these chemicals should generally be non-> volatile insecticidal mixtures, which unfortunately most recommended > are, with exception of perhaps borax and bentonite. Bentonite causes > eggs to dry, so they can be used also, but they have no insecticidal > mixture as borax and borax can performs both killing the insect, > modifying the hormones to prevent egg laying, becomes a stomach > poison for the insect, and at the same time

causes their eggs to dry > up.> > > > I therefore will remain very flexible about what penetrants you > use including hydrogen peroxide, benzoyl peroxide (limited > concentration) , and vinegar. It must be noted that when formulating > any mange it must be noted that they must be non-volatile and the > chemicals should cause microscopic residues around the house so that > re infection of mange is prevented, including mites and fleas.> > > > I think this wraps up the basic theory and application of mange > treatment, and hopefully other people will make a more effective > formulations in the future at least equal or better than the > original formula I have proposed. Just want to tell you that there > are many ways you can treat mange, but the issue is one of toxicity, > re infection, toxic levels, which portion kills it and how, and

> which is the penetrant which is the key to it all. Penetrant is > important, the chemical must reach the target demodex under the > skin. Usually hydrogen peroxide, vinegar, DMSO, and MSM will do > that. It must be reminded again that borax, to work most > effectively, is to prepare a solution without washing it off, > followed by a small amount of borax powder to be applied if you > wish. Any other application other than this such as using as purely > powder form is NOT going to work."> >>

November 24, 2008

Hi Kihun

Borax will not spray if it is over the concetration of 1 cup per gallon in very

hot water and stirred in well .

It does work well at this concentration . I soak my car seats often with borax

and or epsom. it takes a couple of day for the borax to poison the bug.

I cover my seat daily with a 9X12ft plastic drop cloth from the dollar store

and wrap it tight to the seat & tie a bow knot in the rear of the seat withthe

plastic . then take a cheap seat car cover from the auto parts store and slip it

over it and tie it down. I spray the seat with dawn and or epsom salts around

the plastic so they can & #39;t crawl up if there any in my car.

I boil my car seat cover daily along with my clothes in a big 20 qt pot and

in a 16 qt pot on the stove for 1 hr minimum.

I have a cvs brand an trap under the seat which works great . .

God bless you,

Bill

kihunrc wrote:

> I've been thinking of making a borax solution to spray in my car

and

> letting it soak into the seat fabric and floor carpet.

> So the proper mix is this? Add borax to 1L of water until it

> dissolves no more, then add .5L of H202?

>

>>

>> I have a reason for posting this, that will come.

>>

>> For now, there is good info here. I have used this on myself and

> is what healed my first two craters of simmering hell on my arms way

> back when. I will remind you those lesions were on the order of 7cm

> long and 5 cm wide. Substitute human for dog. There is a great

> explanation of the usefulness of H202, vinegar, and borax. The

> actions of Borax can also be applied to the environment. This will

> also tell you on how Borax works to kill and also addresses toxicity

> issues. Also, remember, H202 is a penetrant and very effective.

>>

>> Frito

>>

>> Ted replies, " A definitive recipe is add 1-2 tablespoon of borax

> per 500 cc of 1% hydrogen peroxide solution. To make a 3% hydrogen

> peroxide to 1%, roughly get one part of 3% H2O2 plus two parts of

> water. Then apply them on the dog. Wash with this solution daily, no

> rinsing. If it doesn't go away, I have found mites, or mange to have

> a large " beehive " hidden somewhere. In which case, quarantine the

> dog in a small area that is 100% sterile. "

>>

>> " Approximate measurements are 1 bottle of 500 of 3% H2O2, plus

> 1000 of the cc of water, plus heaping 3 tablespoons of borax. Stir

> until most of borax is dissolved. The borax is past the point of

> saturation here so you will see some borax around. Technically the

> concentration is around 1.5% H2O2, and this is a bit stronger

> because by the time we finish with it, the H2O2 gets reacted with

> other things, and by the time we used it is is usually ends up near

> a 1% solution anyway. "

>>

>> " You need to get put as much borax until it no longer dissolves in